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Pros Cons of Headers
- Thread starter TC4x4
- Start date
pro's....
much better performance.... generally THE first thing you do to a motor to increase power, free up the exhaust... . this varies greatly from shorties to tri-y's to full length to tuned... pretty much a requirement if your gonna do performance mods to the motor, cam, heads, fuel, etc.. also primary tube size varies what performance you will get based on it's diameter..
a quality thickwall header and the right exhaust improves exhaust tone...
con's and potential con's......
you usually get what you pay for... don't be surprised if your $125 Summit headers get rustholes in a couple years... various ceramic coatings or stainless help alleviate that, and can keep the headers looking good for a long time... but can get pricey... headers can run $100 to $1000, depending quality, finish, etc...
also cheaper, thinwall headers tend to have a "tinny" sound...
also some headers, mostly long tubes can have fitment issues.... shackle clearance, auto shifter or clutch clearance, BB's have been known to need to framerail notched on occasion... thin flanged cheap headers can leak at the heads, blow gaskets out and leak down at the 3-bolt collector flange... also your starter can be subject to heatsoak... plugs can be difficult to service... in most cases, for single exhaust, factory y-pipes wont fit and will need to be modified...
much better performance.... generally THE first thing you do to a motor to increase power, free up the exhaust... . this varies greatly from shorties to tri-y's to full length to tuned... pretty much a requirement if your gonna do performance mods to the motor, cam, heads, fuel, etc.. also primary tube size varies what performance you will get based on it's diameter..
a quality thickwall header and the right exhaust improves exhaust tone...
con's and potential con's......
you usually get what you pay for... don't be surprised if your $125 Summit headers get rustholes in a couple years... various ceramic coatings or stainless help alleviate that, and can keep the headers looking good for a long time... but can get pricey... headers can run $100 to $1000, depending quality, finish, etc...
also cheaper, thinwall headers tend to have a "tinny" sound...
also some headers, mostly long tubes can have fitment issues.... shackle clearance, auto shifter or clutch clearance, BB's have been known to need to framerail notched on occasion... thin flanged cheap headers can leak at the heads, blow gaskets out and leak down at the 3-bolt collector flange... also your starter can be subject to heatsoak... plugs can be difficult to service... in most cases, for single exhaust, factory y-pipes wont fit and will need to be modified...
scottsdale86
1/2 ton status
Stay away from the direct fit edelbrock ones. They are junk. Mine leak like crazy. The flanges are thick and they bolt up as advertised but they just leak. Also its a real biotch changing plugs on it. I mean really annoying. They are coated in their coating and look good and no rust issues.
k20
3/4 ton status
All the major pros & cons have been hit on. Your underhood temps will go up, the ceramic coatings can keep it from being too bad though. Also invest in some of the contraptions to hold the plug wires off the headers (I never could get zipties to do right).
Like the others said, pay $$ for em, dont cheap out or you will cuss. Also go ahead and get the copper gaskets and some locking header bolts. Both will keep you from cussing as much down the road.
Like the others said, pay $$ for em, dont cheap out or you will cuss. Also go ahead and get the copper gaskets and some locking header bolts. Both will keep you from cussing as much down the road.
scottsdale86
1/2 ton status
Yeah try the copper ones because the dead soft aluminum ones didnt silience it.
PARTSGUY
Registered Member
Headers are a pain in the rear end! 
With that being said, I do run a set on my little Nova. It gets raced and only gets driven on the weekends. On my truck, I wouldn't run em unless it were a purpose built race truck.
With that being said, I do run a set on my little Nova. It gets raced and only gets driven on the weekends. On my truck, I wouldn't run em unless it were a purpose built race truck.
This pretty much sums it up. Hooker and Hedman are both good brands. I have a set of Hooker Super Comps on my Camaro and my dad is running a set on his Chevelle and Camaro, they all fit good without modifications. I've installed Hedmans on other cars and never had problems. I wouldn't get caught up on big primary tubes and equal length tubes for the money, you'll never notice the difference on your application. Try to find a set that fits and are good quality.
72 Blaze
1/2 ton status
I run a set on my Blazer and my Jeep... If you buy a good set you should'nt have any problems. I have to replace the gasket from header to side pipe ever now and then!
tho a nice setup, i'd say thats debatable... tho superior to a 3 bolt collector, I've run 3 bolt collectors successfully with no issues.. and imo, tho not bolt-in, a slip-fit is by far the best method....
bot0611
1/2 ton status
Collector, what in the world is that... i cut thoose off the first time i put mi headders in.
Personally i have always heard that headders are bad cause of this and that but since ive had mine ive never had problems with spark plugs nor wires although i did buy some thingys that hold your wires and some metal zip ties and heaader wrap for thoose unavoidable places.
If i had to start the mods all over again i would hesitate on the headders but i would buy some nicer ones.
Noe let me ask a question here, whats the diference between the long tubes and the tripe Y's, i got a set of triple Y's laying around just waiting to get used.
Personally i have always heard that headders are bad cause of this and that but since ive had mine ive never had problems with spark plugs nor wires although i did buy some thingys that hold your wires and some metal zip ties and heaader wrap for thoose unavoidable places.
If i had to start the mods all over again i would hesitate on the headders but i would buy some nicer ones.
Noe let me ask a question here, whats the diference between the long tubes and the tripe Y's, i got a set of triple Y's laying around just waiting to get used.
Thanks for the help guys, i will be posting up some of my shopping finds, and we will see if im heading in the right directions, like i said, i have a lot to learn but have learned so much already that i didn't know before.
Also, FYI, I had a major problem with my headers eating plug wires.
I had full lengths on there and swapped em out for a pair with a different primary design.
This was a major issue; I burned through a whole set of MSD 8.5's. Make sure to get some hi temp wrap too, that seems to be a more effective in preventing arcs, stays cooler than ceramic, and is more cost effective. It will void header warranty.
I've conceded to buying headers once every couple years or so.
Here's a pic of mine now:
I had full lengths on there and swapped em out for a pair with a different primary design.
This was a major issue; I burned through a whole set of MSD 8.5's. Make sure to get some hi temp wrap too, that seems to be a more effective in preventing arcs, stays cooler than ceramic, and is more cost effective. It will void header warranty.
I've conceded to buying headers once every couple years or so.
Here's a pic of mine now:
Last edited:
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
I really like the hookers I had on my Nova, and the set I have on my truck now. they both fit great, with only tiny bit of grinding on the motor mount clamshell on my truck to get them in.
sch151
Registered Member
Bought a set of Ceramic coated Doug Thorley Tri-Ys for my small block 1985 GMC 4x4...pricey but great. My biggest complaint is not being able to use a socket on all of the flange bolts. Have to use a box end wrench on some. Also, may require some straight boots and 90 degree boots for the spark plugs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69850/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2847-1HKR/
So heres two im looking at, obviously different, opinions?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2847-1HKR/
So heres two im looking at, obviously different, opinions?
JDS
Registered Member
If it were my truck...
I wouldn't bother with headers unless the truck is intended for drag racing and I had a built motor.
You probably won't notice the performance gain, and if you do, within a week or two you will have gotten used to it and won't even notice it anymore. Really, unless the truck is pretty heavily modified it is slow as heck anyways. You probably won't notice the difference between an 18 second and a 17 second quarter mile.
Always potential problems with fitting. Possible leaks. Possible problems with plug wires.
Depending on whether or not it is stock right now, it could make the truck harder to sell. Most would rather buy a stock truck than somebody's hot hod. I usually won't buy a vehicle if it has headers, goofy air cleaner, etc.
But if you want headers, you want headers and there's nothing wrong with that.
I wouldn't bother with headers unless the truck is intended for drag racing and I had a built motor.
You probably won't notice the performance gain, and if you do, within a week or two you will have gotten used to it and won't even notice it anymore. Really, unless the truck is pretty heavily modified it is slow as heck anyways. You probably won't notice the difference between an 18 second and a 17 second quarter mile.
Always potential problems with fitting. Possible leaks. Possible problems with plug wires.
Depending on whether or not it is stock right now, it could make the truck harder to sell. Most would rather buy a stock truck than somebody's hot hod. I usually won't buy a vehicle if it has headers, goofy air cleaner, etc.
But if you want headers, you want headers and there's nothing wrong with that.
You don't need the super comps , you would be wasting your $$$ they are for drag cars or something with a BBC that is built up pretty good . I have a set in my 69 SS396 Chevelle , with a 468 CID big block & love them , but in my 85 Jimmy that also has a 468 I'm running a set of regular Hookers & they work great for that application .
Just get the regular Hookers. Coating or no coating up to you , I chose to save some $$ & went without the coating on either one.
Just get the regular Hookers. Coating or no coating up to you , I chose to save some $$ & went without the coating on either one.
djtejas
1/2 ton status
I'm on 3 1/2 years with my "cheap" Summit headers and have no problems so far. No problems with spark plug boots and I use AC standard length plugs. No problems with getting the plugs in or out. I do have to use an open end wrench on the end of the socket on two of them though. I also had no problem with clearance at my spring shackle; it's close, but doesn't rub. And I don't have leaks; I use Percy's aluminum gaskets at both ends. I also have not experienced starter problems.
These headers actually fit better than any other headers I've used in the past on other cars and trucks. Always had issues with headers on Camaro's.
Guess I just got lucky this time...
These headers actually fit better than any other headers I've used in the past on other cars and trucks. Always had issues with headers on Camaro's.
Guess I just got lucky this time...
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