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Pros vs. cons of a hydro cluch

I wheeled my 72 sence 93 with manual linkage. I have busted the Z bar once and I was not even off roading..beer run. ALL the times I have had my rig twisted up my manual linkage has allways worked fine.
I am in the process of completeing my SBC to BBC swap and at the same time I converted to Hydro clutch. With the BBC it is simply easier to run hydro setup and I can run Thorleys now too :D
I used GM Master, Toyota LandCruzer slave, Advance Adpter slave mount(too my old cast bell) and Earls hose. Don't ask me how it works yet cuz I haven't finnished yet..with any luck I will drive it this weekend :D
Hope this helps.....
Burt
 
I have run both manual and hydro clutches for years while off road and I must say that the hydraulic is the way to go . I really like the trouble free service out of the hydro set up and if you do regular PM's on your truck normally you will see seepage before you have a seal failure while in the rough.
Thanks to "BURT4x4" I am going to use the LC slave cylinder & A/A bracket with my cast iron bell housing too. The LC slave is fairly stout and is of good quality.
Tom
 
tarussell said:
I have run both manual and hydro clutches for years while off road and I must say that the hydraulic is the way to go . I really like the trouble free service out of the hydro set up and if you do regular PM's on your truck normally you will see seepage before you have a seal failure while in the rough.
Thanks to "BURT4x4" I am going to use the LC slave cylinder & A/A bracket with my cast iron bell housing too. The LC slave is fairly stout and is of good quality.
Tom
Click to expand...
Ahhh Gee wizz :o :o :D
 
I just installed a hydro clutch on my SM465. Braided stainless line from master to slave, Wilwood master, 3/4" bore slave. Have not wheeled it yet, will next weekend though!
 
You can use a Hydraulic throwout bearing , and a master cylider .....bypassing a slave cylinder altogether .

Was going to go this route after I stumbled on it on the internet .

But then I decided to trade the whole 4 speed and mechanical setup , shafts and crossmember too , for an auto for my trail truck .
 
Burt4x4, let me know how it goes, sounds like a good way to go to.

thx mike
 
Come to think of it can i use my steel housing? I know there is a newer one, but i think its weaker.

mike
 
Cant complain much, the jeep was free(78 CJ5). Its going auto now. I am putting in a 350,th350, dual toyota t-cases, and toyota axles with lockers and 5.29 gears. I guess it will be j.e.e.p. Just everyone elses parts.

Dan
 
The only con I can think of for a hydraulic clutch is that if any part fails on the trail, it's much harder to fix than a mechanical linkage. I just completed a hydro clutch conversion on my '79 and it was a pain in the ass. I started out using the kit from Novak, but it turned out to be a waste of $$. I mixed and matched parts and really only used the slave cylinder and bracket from the kit. If I had it to do over, I'd have rounded up a factory hydraulic bellhousing and used pretty much all factory parts. One thing that I DIDN'T have trouble with was bleeding the system. Of course, the day after I got it all put together I found a perfect hydro bellhousing at the junk yard for $20. Go figure. I like the hydro clutch A LOT better than the wore out manual linkage. The best part is that the pedal lets out at the same spot regardless of how twisted up the truck is.
 
Yes, I am using the steel bell housing that came with my K5 in 72 :D . I only read that the Alum bells are weaker I don't have any first hand experiance with them.
Putting a pumped BBC in my K5 I didn't want to chance it so I stuck with the cast steel that is known to be tuff, just like the SM465/NP205 combo :cool1:
 
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