What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Pulling 10b front axle shaft

S

stock93

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Posts
68
Reaction score
0
Location
Huntsville, AL
I need to pull the front axle shaft the replace a badly leaking seal. I have the hub off and the backing plate pulled off. The chiltons I have shows tapping the spindle that the axle actually rides in off the steering knuckle to pull out the axle shaft. I have tapped it pretty good and it hasnt come loose. Does this come apart on a 10 bolt or do I have to take the steering knuckle w/balljoints off to get the axle shaft out?

John
 
I haven't changed seals, but have had it down to the spindles, and my bro just pulled his axles last week in my garage. After it is down to the spindles, you have to remove the nuts holding the spindle on, then tap on it with soft mallet or hammer and wood , then it should come off. After that pull the axle, no c-clips up front either. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
You need to tap harder. Just be careful not to booger up the threads on the spindle. They can be a pain to get off, but use a chunk of wood or a dead blow and some muscle.

Harley
 
Put a 4x4 block in between your sledge hammer and the spindle and smack it a few times, it'll come off.

You could also use a spindle remover and slide hammer, but I never have bothered.
 
If you've removed the bolts, the a tap tap TAPPPPP! oughta do it.
Use a piece of wood between your hammer and spindle to avoid boogering it up.
-T
 
Ok guys, I knocked the 6 studs that bolt the backing plate on out of the spindle. Is there anything else holding it to the steering knuckle? I'm hitting it with a 16lb sledge and a block of 4x4 wood and it hasnt budged at all. To make sure I'm understanding correctly the part that the axle goes through seperates from the part that has the ball joints in it as well as the steering arm where the tie rod hooks up. Right?

John
 
SOB!!! I started working on the passanger side and the new timken wheel bearing is busted, the axle nut lock ring is broken, and the spindle is trashed. All the bearings need to be replaced. The brakes need gone through. The ball joints have some slop in them. I got to looking at the other spindle and two of the threads had somehow gotten flattened and I still havent been able to get it off with my 16 lb sledge.

I also have 3.73 gears. I was hoping for 4.56s so I could go ahead and swap in my 14 ff asap. I'm kinda thinking its time to abandon this axle and go ahead and find a dana 60.

John
 
Look closely at the rear edge of the knuckle, behind the spindle. There's a small half-moon cutout where you can really whack the backside of the spindle with a hammer and punch. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Bummer about the wasted bearings. It sounds like the outer lock nut wasn't tightened down enough when the new bearings were installed. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
I put the bearings in about a month ago. They were torqued to spec per chiltons shop manual. I already tried the cutout in the knuckle. I'll try some penetrating oil and then a bit of heat.

John
 
[ QUOTE ]
They were torqued to spec per chiltons shop manual.

[/ QUOTE ]
For what year? The spec for the older manual locking hub axles was somewhere around 50 ft/lbs. But the spec for the later auto-locking hub axles is around 150 ft/lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif Quite a big difference!
 
I'll scan the page if you want , but after you do the bearings and tighten the inner nut and back it off, you tighten outer locknut to 160-205 ft lbs. I did mine to 150 as thats as much as my torque wrench goes, or you can just go as tight as you can I'm sure ( most guys don't check torque ). /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Don't heat the spindle...you'll never get it out when it's hot.

(personal "Bad" experience)
-T
 
[ QUOTE ]
Its an 83 K10 with autohubs. The chiltons lists it at 50 ft/lbs.

John

[/ QUOTE ]

Ugh! The Chilton's manual is wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif If you look at the way the auto-hubs install, there are some tangs that fit into the notches on the outer lock nut. They will loosen the lock nut if it's only tightened to 50 ft/lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Well, I guess that would be one of my problems. Hrm...looks like this chiltons book would burn pretty easy /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

I think I'm going to see if I can just find a dana 60 instead of dumping a bunch of money into this axle since I need to regear to match the new 14 bff.

John
 
the way i got mine off was to use a big flathead screwdriver or chisel and go around the base of the spindle to seperate. worked like a dream. if your trying to replace the inner seal on the axle itself, you've got alot more work ahead of you. in order to remove the seal( the one that holds the gear oil in) it must be driven out towards the pumpkin. that means removal of the diff. you also need to purchase or make your own tools to pound the seals in and out. good luck
 
I never use a torque wrench on them, i just tighten them up while turning the rotor till they (feel) nice, i guess that comes from experience though, not school books. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

Never had a problem with them, on any vehicle i have worked on. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom