Ok so I'm a rook on the whole turnin wrench thing. I'm starting a 3/4 ton swap and decided to look at the drums on the 14 bolt and the rotors on the dana44. Do you need to pull the hubs on the front to get the rotors off? And pull the axle on the 14 bolt to get the drums off? I was beatin on the rear drums trying to break them loose...then I got looking and thinking that must be retained by the axles in a ff application.
CK5
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Pulling 3/4 ton rotors and break brums
- Thread starter IDGMC
- Start date
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
To remove the rotors you have to pull the rotor and press out the studs. To remove the drum if it is a 14FF pull the shaft, remove the hub nuts, pull the hub and drum off, then press out the studs and remove the drum from the hub. Installation is the reverse order.
Ira
Ira
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
The drum and rotor are held on to the hub by the studs. The rotor and drum are both on the backside of the hub.
Ira
Ira
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
R72K5
Banned
the rotors are similar to the drums, big bearing nuts in the hub to remove and nut locks
once youve done it youll always know how to, its the only way to learn it is to just go for it
good luck
once youve done it youll always know how to, its the only way to learn it is to just go for it
good luck
87GMC
1/2 ton status
Where do you live, maybe someone nearby can help?
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
I'm gonna guess Idaho.
And you don't have to press out any studs to just "look" at the drums. You pull the hub and drum off in one assembly, then take a look at your drum. If you're going to leave it on there, then put it back on. If you're gonna change it, then pound out the studs to separate it from the hub. Personally, I wouldn't spend one freaking dime on drum brakes. It's be cheaper to convert to discs in the rear than to rebuild your drum brakes. This is the breakdown of my expenses...
Rotors- 2 at $25 a piece
Calipers- 2 at $17 a piece
Rubber brake lines- Stock ones off a S10 for free
Caliper Brackets- $60 + S&H from DIY4X
You don't need some special part # for brake lines like everyone talks about. There's basically only two types. Those for a 7/16" banjo bolt, and those for a 10mm banjo bolt. Almost anything after 1980 is gonna be 10mm. I had free 10mm lines from leftover from an S10 project, so I just ordered calipers for a '82 3/4 ton instead of a 78 3/4 ton. Please don't spend any money on your drums.
And you don't have to press out any studs to just "look" at the drums. You pull the hub and drum off in one assembly, then take a look at your drum. If you're going to leave it on there, then put it back on. If you're gonna change it, then pound out the studs to separate it from the hub. Personally, I wouldn't spend one freaking dime on drum brakes. It's be cheaper to convert to discs in the rear than to rebuild your drum brakes. This is the breakdown of my expenses...
Rotors- 2 at $25 a piece
Calipers- 2 at $17 a piece
Rubber brake lines- Stock ones off a S10 for free
Caliper Brackets- $60 + S&H from DIY4X
You don't need some special part # for brake lines like everyone talks about. There's basically only two types. Those for a 7/16" banjo bolt, and those for a 10mm banjo bolt. Almost anything after 1980 is gonna be 10mm. I had free 10mm lines from leftover from an S10 project, so I just ordered calipers for a '82 3/4 ton instead of a 78 3/4 ton. Please don't spend any money on your drums.
You guessed it...Southern Idaho. I thought about disc in the rear but figured it would be to much. I called a parts store to rebuild the drums and I was looking at 150 for all the parts and pieces. If I convert to discs do I need a propotioning (spelling) valve?
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
You don't really need a proportioning valve. You can get 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton calipers, from a 70's era or a 80's era. The rotor you need is for a 78 3/4 ton, I think it's # 2533 at autozone, $25 a piece. For calipers, I think the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton have different size pistons, which will change your braking power. If you get the same size pistons that you have in the front, then your rear braking will be equal to the front. If you use the 1/2 ton ones, it will be a little less, which may negate the need for a proportioning valve. If you have a 10mm line that you can scrounge up, get 82 calipers, if you have a 7/16 line, get 78 calipers.
I wouldn't spend $150 on drum parts, cause it'll cost you that much to do discs. I think my total cost was $154.99
You can take your calipers off with a 3/8" allen wrench. Just remove the two caliper bolts and take them off. Rotors in the front are similar to the rear hub. Take out the hub lock nut, removing the lock ring, remove second hub nut, then take the hub and rotor off as an assembly. Pound out the studs to separate rotor from hub.
Anything I haven't mentioned can be found in search.
I wouldn't spend $150 on drum parts, cause it'll cost you that much to do discs. I think my total cost was $154.99
You can take your calipers off with a 3/8" allen wrench. Just remove the two caliper bolts and take them off. Rotors in the front are similar to the rear hub. Take out the hub lock nut, removing the lock ring, remove second hub nut, then take the hub and rotor off as an assembly. Pound out the studs to separate rotor from hub.
Anything I haven't mentioned can be found in search.
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
Make that #5523.pvfjr said:
