Pulling Motor, New one in! New flex pics on last pg.

[Stomis]

Because this question is next the way to replace a valve spring without pulling the motor is to get an adapter and fill the cylinder with shop air. This will hold the valve up while you remove the keepers and replace the spring.

Be aware you'll need to turn the motor by hand until both valves are closed on said cylinder. If theyre closed but it wont hold pressure you have a broke, bent, or burnt valve.

 

[munepit]

Its been sittin for yrs. Like 10+. I did a lot of mud bogs with it before. I stood on it hard, so, ya, high rpm for sure.

 

[munepit]

Should I have the heads rebuilt, or buy used heads, or new heads. New heads on an older motor? How would that work? I don't have much money with a baby comming in 8 weeks.
But, I need to do this quick or I will never get this done. Thanks guys!!!

 

[rufusbooth]

your local auto parts store should have a "head on car" valve spring compressor that you can rent for free.

My local store can get a new set of valve springs for $60. Given you spun this motor hard I would replace them all.

This only applies as long as your current valve did not kiss the piston when the valve spring broke. I would make sure the valve at least moves freely up and down in the guide and appears to come up just as far as the valve next to it before sinking a bunch of time into this motor.

You might also put that cylinder on TDC of its compression stroke and pressurize the cylinder with compressed air and a spark plug adapter. Lift the valve by hand so it is seated. Once the valve is seated by hand the air pressure should keep the valve closed and should not leak air (very little) out the intake or exhaust depending on which valve spring gave up. If you cant get the valve to hold air in the cylinder than most likely the piston hit the valve and minimum the head needs a rebuild.

110 PSI on the other cylinders sounds like a tired old motor.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[rufusbooth]

Because this question is next the way to replace a valve spring without pulling the motor is to get an adapter and fill the cylinder with shop air. This will hold the valve up while you remove the keepers and replace the spring.

Be aware you'll need to turn the motor by hand until both valves are closed on said cylinder. If theyre closed but it wont hold pressure you have a broke, bent, or burnt valve.

Yep, this method works great. If you don't have access to shop air you can do the same thing with a length of soft rope. You remove the spark plug and snake in enough rope to act as a pusher to hold up the valves. rotate the motor by hand until you feel resistance of the rope being pushed up on the head (don't go ape here and crank it hard). Then do your valve work. The piston presses the rope on the valves and holds them up into the head while you do your spring work. This is not the easiest method but it works in a pinch.

Rufus

On edit: If you are replacing all the valve springs might as well replace the valve guide seals while you are in there.

 

[Stomis]

After considering doing this on my monte carlo ss I decided it would be way easier to just yank the heads lol. Its not like there multi port sitting on top of the motor. Its pretty simple.

And yeah rufus is right. Your pressure should be 140ish to 180 depending on compression. Put a little oil in a different cylinder and compression test it. Probably get like 180....

 

[rufusbooth]

Yep, sometimes just yanking the heads is easier but in this case we are talking "budget" get it running again. Cheapest to leave the heads on and patch it back together (no top end gasket kit cost). Not generally something I would do but if $ is tight you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[DeviousK5]

Your next step is to perform a cylinder leakdown test and determine why that cylinder has low compression. It does sound like a valve issue but, do the test first. It would suck to do head work to find out the rings are shot. But it really sounds like a valve problem.

 

[Stomis]

Your next step is to perform a cylinder leakdown test and determine why that cylinder has low compression. It does sound like a valve issue but, do the test first. It would suck to do head work to find out the rings are shot. But it really sounds like a valve problem.

The rings are definitely on their way out if cylinder pressure is 110 across the board on the good cylinders...

 

[rufusbooth]

The rings are definitely on their way out if cylinder pressure is 110 across the board on the good cylinders...

I would have a tendency to agree with this statement, definitely a tired motor. It all depends on what the OP wants to do. Bargain basement just get it running or rebuild. Those are the only two choices and replacing the springs is only viable if the valve has not been bent.

If the springs can be replaced then we just know that it is a tired motor and replacement plans should be made post haste. But at least it is transportation while those plans can be set in motion as $ becomes available rather than the truck being 100% out of commission. I am guessing the springs could be replaced for about $100 if the valve is still ok.

Rufus

 

[Keitha]

I say pull the heads. It is a pretty quick job and the effort can save this from happening to another valve. After sitting for 10 years, the motor could probably use the new gaskets etc.

 

[munepit]

Ok guys here is some pics of the valves. Im sure I need to replace the whole motor. If I can get buy with something to get me buy for a while that would be good. That way I could get a long block and go from there. I think this weekend, well, starting after work today, I will pull the heads.

The buisness hooked to my building was just robed by gunpoint as I was posting this. Damm.

 

[Never Satisfied]

Another vote for pulling the heads. If it were mine, I'd pull the heads. Once you do that, you can check out the rest of the valvetrain along with the condition of the cylinder walls. Like the others have stated, 110 psi is a sign of a tired motor.

 

[Keitha]

by the way: Code 12 is normal. That means that the computer is responding as it should.

 

[munepit]

Alright guys, I going to start taking my heads off . So, I have to take the entire top end apart right. Are there any special tools I will need. Will I have to take the T.B. off the intake? What about the manafold bolts. They look like they will be a PITA to get off. If you have any suggestions, please let me know. I am going to take pics of before so I will know how it goes back on, and bag and tag everything. Thanks again for your suggestions,ideas and information.

 

[76zimmer]

WAIT....if your already sold on a new long block, just piece this back together, til you get that new engine....no sense in sinking a couple hundred into this one unless your going to use the parts off of it on another engine.

 

[Keitha]

Alright guys, I going to start taking my heads off . So, I have to take the entire top end apart right. Are there any special tools I will need. Will I have to take the T.B. off the intake? What about the manafold bolts. They look like they will be a PITA to get off. If you have any suggestions, please let me know. I am going to take pics of before so I will know how it goes back on, and bag and tag everything. Thanks again for your suggestions,ideas and information.

It is pretty easy. you will need to take the intake off obviously. To get the intake off you will need to pull the TBI, the distributer, the brake booster vacume line, and all wiring harnesses. The wiring is not too bad as each sensor has it's own style of plug, so you really can not conect them wrong.

You will need a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts on re-assembly. A gasket scraper is also a good tool to have.

 

[rufusbooth]

WAIT....if your already sold on a new long block, just piece this back together, til you get that new engine....no sense in sinking a couple hundred into this one unless your going to use the parts off of it on another engine.

I agree, removing the heads is the right way but as mentioned if you are going with a new long block and there will be a significant amount of time until you can acquire it I would piece this back together with a new set of valve springs from the local autozone. The motor will still be tired but you will not have any issues with any other broken valve springs and it will work just fine. besides, keeping the heads on will save about $100 bucks in gaskets.

Cheers,
Rufus

 

[munepit]

Thanks for all the advice. I looked at autozone.com. $7.00 for a single valve spring. $73.00 for a complete set. I would go with the set. If I daid that. Do I just take the rocker arm off, slip on a new spring and put the rocker arm on? That's it? Sounds easy, that means it probobly not. Special tools? I think I should just swap springs and get a long block soon. So I might be able to go wheelin on sat? Thanks again!!! You guys rock!!!

 

[Stomis]

You need to pressurize the cylinder with air or do the rope trick other wise when you compress that spring to pull that keeper out youll drop the valve in the head and have no choice but to pull the head.