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Pulling the Motor

Craig Artzner

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Well it looks like I flattened the camshaft in my Blazer's motor with my mods from last year. So the motor is coming out, getting cleaned up...and getting a roller cam. :D
 
I would go with a one piece rear main seal block instead, but that is just me.

Martin
 
Well it looks like I flattened the camshaft in my Blazer's motor with my mods from last year. So the motor is coming out, getting cleaned up...and getting a roller cam. :D
didn't you put new heads on a existing short block?
I still think a flat tappet needs the zinc additive to live, regardless of mileage.
 
any other abnormalities from the swap, like oil consumption?
I put new Vortec heads on a 100K shortblock with no noticeable increase in oil consumption....that is something some say will happen under those circumstances.
The only switch I had to make to the valve train was pushrods and rocker arms (self aligning type)
 
nope it ran good until a month or so ago when it started losing power. then it wouldn't start one day, checked everything out. checked the timing and had fuel, spark, and air. popped the valve covers off and a few of the rockers were barely moving while cranking. not enough of anything was getting into the combustion chamber apparently. bleh.
 
How many miles after the change? This just sounds weird. Most of the time when you wipe a lobe or two, or damage your camshaft..........
It happens fairly quickly.

It sounds like yours ran fine for quite a while and then started going downhill. Its not unusual for the downhill slide to progress quickly, once the cam starts to break down, it goes fast.
But usually once you get a good chunk of miles on it, its good for the long haul.
 
Didnt you put aftermarket heads on?

I wonder if the spring pressure was too much for the cam.

I wouldnt gamble with a flat tappet cam anymore, too risky havng a 50/50 shot of your engine surviving or not.
 
yep definitely going full roller. I'm excited now. I think I'm going to pull the tranny too and put a new seal kit in it (it has some weeping leaks).

and yes I did put the new heads on it and maybe that's what caused the issues
 
Have you looked into going with a one piece rear main seal block?

Martin
 
Because he is looking to go roller cam. The one piece rear main seal engines are roller blocks, and the one piece rear main seal isn't nearly as prone to leaking oil.

Martin
 
I'd also very, very highly suggest you take the whole engine apart and clean every single oil passage, bearing etc. All that glitter that used to be your cam lobes cannot be good for your bearings... I wouldn't trust the oil filter to get it all, plenty gets sloshed around by the crankshaft so it'll be everywhere.
 
I've done way to many rear main seal jobs to have much faith in either design, but a one piece rear main seal is a MUCH better design.

Martin
 
my buddy just did that samething about 2 months ago,it randomly wiped a lobe,so he did a full roller set up,with roller rockers. replacing his crank/rod bearings while he was at it.didnt even take the motor out,he just took each cap off individually and i guess theres a trick to just sliding new bearings in. works great now :waytogo:
 
Because he is looking to go roller cam. The one piece rear main seal engines are roller blocks, and the one piece rear main seal isn't nearly as prone to leaking oil.

Martin

I'd also very, very highly suggest you take the whole engine apart and clean every single oil passage, bearing etc. All that glitter that used to be your cam lobes cannot be good for your bearings... I wouldn't trust the oil filter to get it all, plenty gets sloshed around by the crankshaft so it'll be everywhere.


ditto on both comments...
 

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