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Pulling the oil pan! What else should i do at the same time?

Fancy

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I notice a lot of minor oil leaks all around my 350 here and there. Nothing major but i figure i want to start addressing some of them. First one im addressing is my oil pan and i want to know if i should be changing anything else while i got the pan pulled? like other seals ect. Or just things i should look for?

Thanks
 
Timing chain cover and seal. Requires harmonic balances removal. Front and rear tranny seals, trans filter and gasket. Valve cover gaskets would really be the only other thing
 
My self I'd change the oil pump while your in there just because you can.

May be overkill but:dunno: I'd rather know its good
 
Ya my two major concerns where oil pump and rear main seal. Not sure how to tell if the oil pump is any good but i fugured i might just replace it as im not sure it ever has been. As for the rear main seal i heard it was kind of tricky and not sure it is even leaking??? but i might get ambitious.

As for most of the stuff big pappa mentioned... That dose not require the oil pan to be pulled so i can pretty much address that later right?
 
All except timing chain cover. Itd be a good idea if you were ambitous. Everything on the front of the motor must be pulled. IE accessories and brackets.
 
How old is the pump? If you still have good pressure then why change it? They don't fail to often. The trans has to be pulled back so if it the rear main is not leaking I wouldn't mess with that either.
 
How old is the pump? If you still have good pressure then why change it? They don't fail to often. The trans has to be pulled back so if it the rear main is not leaking I wouldn't mess with that either.

correct. forget about the rear main seal, a 90' would be a 1 piece. which means the trans would need removed to replace it. they dont leak that often anyways
 
Last time I had a oil pan off a small block to replace the timing chain and gears and gaskets before installing the engine,I saw many of the nylon teeth off the cam gear were lodged in the oil pump screen,and a few made it into the pump--the screen can and does get sucked away from its holder and will let trash get sucked into the pump during a cold start,they figured getting dirty oil was better than starving the bearings completely...........................................................................................Many times that screen is completely covered with carbon or sludge,and is difficult to clean--for 12.99 I bought a new stock melling oil pump from Autozone,and they also had a steel sleeve for the drive collar for another 5 bucks or so,and a new screen wasn't more than 10 bucks so I replaced all 3 of them,rather than risk using the original pump............................................................................................................the worst part of changing the pump is installing the screen to it,its tricky and I never liked the way they rely on just a press fit to secure it--nor do I like the thoughts of welding or brazing it to the pump,a precision made unit that likely wont tae kindly to that much heat...so far I haven't had one come off,maybe I am lucky,some other guys I know had them come off and end up in the sump,and their engines scored the bearings..
 
Well as far as I know the pump has never been replaced (170000) So I will be doing that along with the timing chain and pan seal but at a later date since none are screaming for attention now and I have a long list of other projects I need to work on!
 
If you get ambitious enough to do a rear main, just pull the motor, will allow you to do alot of cleanup plus easy to totally regasket the motor do some touchups on it etc.
 

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