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Put your Blazer on a diet

oh darn!
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[ QUOTE ]
For what it's worth, the power of a big block outweighs the minimal weight difference.
Chevy 350 weighs in at 5735Lbs
Chevy 396,427 or 454 weigh 685Lbs....150Lbs difference




thats how I see it, just strech the front suspension, rope for the winch and the batteries in back, remove the hood hindges, windshield wiper pump, add electric fan and alluminum for the motor where possable, that should be real close to small block territory. Not to mention if you moved the radiator out back, all ac junk heator ect and skinned the pannels, you might be better than small block weight /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Well, a smalblock will always be lighter but it is hard to beat the power for the weight. The other big block problem is the height of the weight, the heads are big and the block is tall so it adds a good bit to the CG height. Especially with the really cool tall deck big cube motors.
Of course the ultimate solution is a $10K+ small block 454 with alum heads but short of that, it's hard to beat the fun of the big block cubes.
 
I'm with you on this one. I've tried to combate the BB weight as best I can without breaking the bank. AL intake and some headers can go a long way. If I had the cash, AL heads would be nice. As it is, an AL water pump will most likely be the stop point.

I still need to get that AL radiator in. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm with you on this one. I've tried to combate the BB weight as best I can without breaking the bank. AL intake and some headers can go a long way. If I had the cash, AL heads would be nice. As it is, an AL water pump will most likely be the stop point.

I still need to get that AL radiator in. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


that is along my thinking line..

put 10 grand in a killer small block.. or drop in a bb and spend 3000 on it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

need to put some thought on the radiator /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

but then again I keep killing them so that would just increase the cost every two months /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

another thought is the cost for a cool small block can be achived with a stockish big block, just deal with the weight..

perspective...

4 grand tummy tuck...

or 5 bucks a day for McDonalds..

DEAL WITH IT! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
do we really need a windshield? I think I'm gonna cut my top off and my entire windshield area. Put a little plexi screen at the bottom and call it good. Maybe screen it when I hit mud. Mainly cause I just removed my wiring harness and the windshield wipers went with that.
 
Depends on local laws, but I'm betting you do need it in PA.
 
Ahhh.... <shhhh> /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Whether I redo the truggy, or build a buggy, either way I'm going to have a fold down windshield in the next incarnation. Maybe get a frame from a Jeep of some sort since it will also be narrower... Anyway, I definitely want a windshield. If your not first in line going to the trails around here, your eating rocks and dust like you wouldn't believe. Of course as soon as I do that, I'll start breaking them left and right. I left the OEM GM windshield in the truggy to start with just because it was good and no sense in "buying work" when I was already rushing to get it together for BB02. That same windshield is still in there without so much as a chip or crack after 2 years of beating, pealing back the frame several times, and several hard flops. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif My tow rig on the other hand has two "star" chips in the windshield, one acquired while towing the truggy... <shaking head>
 
Just have your passenger keep a rag near by and when the law is coming in the other lane have them mime the action of wiping a spot off the inside of the windshield /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif. He'll never even think about it. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Just have your passenger keep a rag near by and when the law is coming in the other lane have them mime the action of wiping a spot off the inside of the windshield /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif. He'll never even think about it. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

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but he might notice the rearview mirror duct taped to a stick robbed from your wifes toilet plunger /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
I dunno guys, somewhere about 1/3 of a page ago i saw this weight issue head by way of models having RIBS removed for better performance /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif whats next, the thread title
" I put the wife on jenny craig, and wow, my COG is awsome" /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
When I get my AL radiator here, I planned on putting it back on topic. And letting it go here and there hasnt been too bad. There have been some good ideas put forth that way.

And since you brought up COG. I'd like to know what is is. How do I figure it out so I can refigure when I make the changes? What is an acceptable level of COG and does cutting the roof really make that much of a difference?
 
the new peterson's has an article devoted to CoG and I saw a picture of a mog with what looked like the measurements you need to figure that stuff out drawn over it. I haven't sat down and read the article yet myself.
 
i dunno how to do the math but thats easy, its the whole LEVERAGE VIA WEIGHT thing. you know, that roof weight is the theoretical board sitting on a rock shuvved under the other rock, trying to pull you over /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Straight outta Peterson's August '04 issue. Ignore the punctuation in <font color="red"> red </font>; I needed to put some filler in there to make the equations "look" right...


Front-to-rear bias:
To find the CG distance from front axle centerline:

rear wheel vehicle weight
-------------------------- X wheelbase
overall vehicle weight


Side-to-side bias:
To find the CG distance from vehicle centerline:

track width <font color="red"> .......... </font> weight of pass. side
------------- <font color="red"> ... </font>- <font color="red"> ... </font> ---------------------- X track width
<font color="red"> ..... </font> 2 <font color="red"> ................. </font> overall vehicle weight


Top-to-bottom CG bias:
This measurement requires you to lift the rear of the vehicle 30" off the ground with a forklift or hoist while the front tires are on scales. The "raised wheelbase" is the effective distance from the rear-axle centerline (drop a plumb line from the rear axle and make a mark on the ground) to the front axle centerline.

level vehicle wheelbase X raised vehicle wheelbase X added vehicle weight on front
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<font color="red"> .................... </font> distance vehicle raised X overall vehicle weight



Don't forget... If you're really gonna take the time to do this, do it with the vehicle "trail ready", I.E. full tanks, gear, tools, spares, passengers, and whatever other sh!t that comes along with you on a wheeling trip.
 
Thank You! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

So, using all of these measurements, you should be able to come up with a center of all type of point. It would be nice to be able to take all of the measurements find the overall COG and then say, chop off the roof and then do it all over again and see how big the difference really was. I would like to see how much effect the position of the weight removed really makes.

I would like to compare it to a comp buggy just for fun and see where thier try COG is also.
 
ok, so you have a frame, a pan, 2 fenders /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif thats not a diet, thats anorexia /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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