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Putting a blazer tank in my truck

readymix

readymix

3/4 ton status
Joined
May 30, 2004
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Location
Murrieta, California
I have a question though before I drop the $$ on one.

There is a couple inch difference in the depth of the 30Gal Blazer tank compared to my current 20Gal saddle tank. Will the fuel sender from my truck still work?

I know someone has had to have done this before.

Oh and I'm going to get it from 1AAuto unless someone has a better business at a lower cost. I have bought from 1A quite a few times before so I know what I am dealing with.
 
Yeah it might read wrong, but the goal here is to be as cheap as possible. I want a fuel cell but can't afford one.
 
Oh, and why do all of the blazer sending units I see have 4 hose connections? Mytruck has 3. What is the other one for?
 
readymix said:
Oh, and why do all of the blazer sending units I see have 4 hose connections? Mytruck has 3. What is the other one for?
Click to expand...

It's not Blazer vs truck, it's which year ... newer ones have the fourth plug, but old ones like my '74's (K5 and truck alike) have the three.

-- A
 
readymix said:
I was looking up parts for an '87 blazer since that is the same year as my truck.
Click to expand...

Eh, you'd think they'd both have the four. Might be emissions-related too, i.e. a higher-GVWR pickup might have the simpler, three-connection sender, vs a lower-GVWR truck have the more complicated.

Or it may be that the TBI trucks get the four. :dunno:

-- A
 
3/8 = fuel feed
5/16 = fuel return
1/4 = vent to emmisions can
5/8 = fuel filler vent line

truck tanks have the fuel filler vent next to the filler hole.
 
I did one in mine when I had a flatbed on it. I put the blazer cross members in my frame and retained the OE skid plate. TBI truck so I used TBI blazer tank. To use the froward cross member I had to notch it and build a spacer for the top. Otherwise the tank would not be level.

Make sure your exhaust wont interfere. I ended up using a 3" Sub tailpipe from NAPA because my truck one would not work. You might have to pull your hitch off and re-fab if you have one or if it is even an issue for you.

I've since gone back to saddle tanks because I put a wide dually under it and went back to a stock dually bed (was a flat bed) and did not want to mess with the filler tube.

Just my experiences.
 
readymix said:
Yeah it might read wrong, but the goal here is to be as cheap as possible. I want a fuel cell but can't afford one.
Click to expand...

I guess I misread your post. I thought you were putting a bigger tank from a Blazer in place of a smaller saddle tank from a pickup and wanted to know if the sending unit would work.

And I thought you were looking for a source for a tank at the best price.
 
I am putting a blazer tank int he truck since my current tank is full of holes. Anytime I mess with something on my truck I try to improve it a little bit. In this case the improvement would be ditching the saddle tank. I have hit that thing on the rocks way too many times already.

The ultimate upgrade would be to a fuel cell, but I just can't afford the cost right now.
 
sweetk30 said:
3/8 = fuel feed
5/16 = fuel return
1/4 = vent to emmisions can
5/8 = fuel filler vent line

truck tanks have the fuel filler vent next to the filler hole.
Click to expand...


Yup, your right. I didn't even think about the fuel filler vent.
It's looking like I will need to buy a new fuel sender also.

Anyone have any thoughts about steel vs plastic tanks?
If I get a steel one I will have bed liner sprayed on it.
 
Like anything else it's possible but will require fab. If you want cheap I would just replace the saddle for about $100 new. Plastic tanks are great but more $. If you plan on a fuel cell some day I would just find a good used tank (pick and pull) or craigslist or something. Bedliner spray would be fine but wont do much unless you really clean the baby, prime, and then spray. Would look cool but would rust just as fast without proper prep. A new steel tank is galvanized which adds some protection. I would prime and spray a new tank but I'm a bit retentive. I believe CUCV's have skid plates for the saddle tanks. Might be something to consider if you worried about punching holes in a new tank and don't want to pony up for a pricey fuel cell.
 
I did look into getting a new saddle tank and calling it done, but ran into one problem. The brackets (not the straps) that hold the tank on the frame are rotted beyond repair and have since been tossed in the trash. I could not find anyone that makes them.
 
Don't know about new but should be easy enough to come by. I got a set with the tank at the pick and pull for $50 total. I'm sure someone here has a set kicking around. I've got a truck I could pull the whole setup out of but they frown on shipping used fuel tanks. I could get the brackets off but you would have to give me a little while.

Miek
 
I'm pretty sure I am going to go with a blazer tank mounted in the bed/bed floor, so no need for the brackets.

Someday I'll build the flat bed and drop a fuel cell in there. hopefully this is just a fix to tide me over until then.
 
You'll need a body lift to gut the fuel filler in there unless you re-work the tank.
 
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