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putting a Harmonic Balancer back on

adamforsythe

adamforsythe

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Ok taking a Harmonic Balancer off it easy ( You just need a puller ). But how do you put it back on? I may be new at engine building (2 engine) but I know when it comes to Harmonic Balancers hammers, and 2x4's are a BIG NO NO.

See I just pulled my 350 (photo in my sig.) Well I am building it a little more and making it look nice in the process. I painted the block Ford RED, the top of the engine is all polished Aluminum. I want to finish it off with nice looking headers, and a polished timing cover.
Thanks
Adam
 
Harmonic balancer installer tool!
It threads into the bolt thread in the end of the crank, then there is a bigger thread and nut built into the shank which you thread and it presses the balancer onto the crank.
:thumb:
Also i have a SBC tool, but it won't work for my 454! so i guess they're different between sbc and bbc must be larger threads. :crazy:
 
I agree with Ryan !!!!!!!! If you pound it back on it will take out the thrust bearings !!
 
Balancer tool

A HB tool can be had at Habor frieght for low$. Is not the greatest but for 1 inwhile use it'll work. Just be carful and mind full, making sure all the threads for tool have enough bite. I believe the nut you turn to press HB on is 1 1/16".
Wes
 
well... if you do it right, you can use a hammer. I used a large socket (like the large socket you use taking apart the inside of your hubs) and a large hammer. Small, gentle taps (keyword.. tap, not blow) will evenly distribute with the socket, and the balancer will slide on.

Other cheap option is find a bolt to thread into the crank, use the same socket and some washers between the bolt and socket (need something on the flywheel/flexplate to keep the crank from turning though... snap-on screwdriver works wonders)
 
I just made my own tool.

Just got myself an old balancer bolt, cut it a bit short, then got a long, fully threaded bolt, welded the heads together, then threaded the balancer bolt in as far as it would go. then got some thick washers, and big bolts, and sucked it on by tightening a nut onto the end of the bolt that was sticking out. Worked like a charm, and the best part -- Totally free!
 
Why don't they just sell the installer with the puller? they know you are going to need it, and why not charge $25 for both????
 
why dont you just go rent the installer from Autozone, Murrays, Advance, Pepboys, or whoever you have in the area.
thats what i did for my 454.

just make sure you out grease on the installer.
 
Thats an installer.

A puller looks like a 3 toed foot, it bolts to the three fine thread holes on the balancer, then it has a pushing rod that goes down and pushes against the snout of the crank. Make sure that you use the flat footed tip for it. You'll break the pointy one off in the crank -- Ask me how I know :crazy:
 
Does anyone know what the thread size and pitch is for a 1987 350 blazer? I rented the installer from autozone and the only adapter thats close is the 7/16-20. The threads mesh side by side with the bolt I pulled out, but the adapter wont even get 2 threads in. It's the kit from autozone with 4 black metric adaptors and 4 english ones, a LARGE hollow bolt, a small one that goes inside it, a bearing and a large nut for the large bolt. Any ideas? I flew home to Denver from upstate new york to help install a new motor in my brother in laws blazer and am leaving friday!!!!!
Oh, and if anyone is in the thornton area or north denver, FREE BEER AND PIZZA to anyone who wants to help finish!
 
6.2 man said:
I agree with Ryan !!!!!!!! If you pound it back on it will take out the thrust bearings !!
Click to expand...
Not before the late 60's . My 283's crank isn't even drilled or tapped , only way to put it on , just be gentle :D
 
Jagged said:
well... if you do it right, you can use a hammer. I used a large socket (like the large socket you use taking apart the inside of your hubs) and a large hammer. Small, gentle taps (keyword.. tap, not blow) will evenly distribute with the socket, and the balancer will slide on.
Click to expand...

considering the crankshaft endplay is .006" at the HIGH limit, striking it with anything is a BIG no no. there's only one time that it is ok to strike the crankshaft, and that is when seating the thrust bearings. even this should be done in one or two light swings from a rubber mallet.
 
I'm an old butcher I guess..

Pauly is right...he too remembers the good old days of 283's and 327's that had NO bolt in the crank,not even a hole!..I've used a BFH to install balancers on a good many chevy motors,from 6's to BBC's,and never had any thrust bearing problems..not saying its the BEST way to do it,but for many years,it was the ONLY way!...:eek1:

It's all in the way you do it..some of the engines I used a hammer on were out of the vehicle for a timing chain or other work before swapping it in..also in the machine shop when they were being rebuilt--we'd just stand the engine up with the flywheel end of the crank supported on a board,and drove the balancer on with a heavy mallet or a 5 lb sledge,but you dont whale on it like your splitting a log..just slow,gentle "thuds" --love taps if you will--grease the balancer up with some STP or similar slippery goo and they slide right on nicely,with no bearing damage..

We used the installer whenever possible--like when the crank had a hole with threads left in it!..threaded rod and washers will work in a pinch..make sure it threads in the crank at least an inch,or it will pull out the threads rather than pull the balancer on!.:doah: .then you'll HAVE to use a hammer!..:p:
 
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