How do I set my float with the angle piece that came with the rebuild kit. The instructions are either unclear or missing. I have a qjet 17057213 77 k5. Also how can I tell if this is a 750 or 800. Thanks
CK5
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qjet float adjustments
- Thread starter wazzabie
- Start date
R72K5
Banned
the 750 have larger more protruding annular ring in the primary venturis than the 800 do, look down in one and see if is bulging alot or not much at all, you really almost need to see one of the 750 and one of the 800 to see the difference, but you just can tell by looking, second nature, heh
most of the 800 are on really old models and oldsmobiles and such
to set/check floar level you want to hold down the hinge pin that the float pivots on and is held into bowl casting with, and push down on the float end where the main needle is, make sure the hinge pin stays down
now measure with that white right angle measring thing in the carb kit,
to do this you put the end of the measuring thing on toop side of the float about 3/16" back from the very end of the float and measure from toop of float up to top of bowl casting where the gasket sits on
you want somewhere around 3/8" measurement
good luck
most of the 800 are on really old models and oldsmobiles and such
to set/check floar level you want to hold down the hinge pin that the float pivots on and is held into bowl casting with, and push down on the float end where the main needle is, make sure the hinge pin stays down
now measure with that white right angle measring thing in the carb kit,
to do this you put the end of the measuring thing on toop side of the float about 3/16" back from the very end of the float and measure from toop of float up to top of bowl casting where the gasket sits on
you want somewhere around 3/8" measurement
good luck
Thanks for the quick reply.
I found a good picture below with instuctions but I'm still confused... I need some idot proof instructions. I'm just not getting this.
Pics & Instructions
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.html
the hinge pin- this is the silver bar that bends 180 and sticks out from the plastic piece?
Hold down the hinge pin- if this is the pin I think it is it doesn't hold down. The pin is stationary. I could hold and/or bend the angle part of the pin that protrudes out. Here is the pin protruding out from the plastic
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-169s.jpg
The main needle- this is the two neadles that are in the springy apparatus? Here is a pic: http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-154s.jpg
Looks as if he has the plastic piece removed when making this adjustment. /is this aligned correctly in the picture for the measurement?
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-157s.jpg
Thanks
I found a good picture below with instuctions but I'm still confused... I need some idot proof instructions. I'm just not getting this.
Pics & Instructions
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.html
the hinge pin- this is the silver bar that bends 180 and sticks out from the plastic piece?
Hold down the hinge pin- if this is the pin I think it is it doesn't hold down. The pin is stationary. I could hold and/or bend the angle part of the pin that protrudes out. Here is the pin protruding out from the plastic
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-169s.jpg
The main needle- this is the two neadles that are in the springy apparatus? Here is a pic: http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-154s.jpg
Looks as if he has the plastic piece removed when making this adjustment. /is this aligned correctly in the picture for the measurement?
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet/vc-157s.jpg
Thanks
I don't see hinge pin in the main body of that article?
Anyways, if that's what they call a hinge pin, I can see why. The float pivots on the piece of that pin you can't see. The pin just pulls straight out with the float attached.
"Main needle" is a misnomer, whatever anyone is talking about. You've got the needle/seat, which is where the fuel comes in (the needle is what hangs off the end of the float with the tiny clip, you can see if you remove the plastic baffle around the "hinge pin") you've got the primary rods and jets (the rods in the picture) then you've got the secondary rods which you didn't link to.
I suspect the "main needle" is the needle/seat though.
As to the float adjustment, for that measuring device, it looks right to me. There are a few different styles I've seen, each measures in a different way.
Anyways, if that's what they call a hinge pin, I can see why. The float pivots on the piece of that pin you can't see. The pin just pulls straight out with the float attached.
"Main needle" is a misnomer, whatever anyone is talking about. You've got the needle/seat, which is where the fuel comes in (the needle is what hangs off the end of the float with the tiny clip, you can see if you remove the plastic baffle around the "hinge pin") you've got the primary rods and jets (the rods in the picture) then you've got the secondary rods which you didn't link to.
I suspect the "main needle" is the needle/seat though.
As to the float adjustment, for that measuring device, it looks right to me. There are a few different styles I've seen, each measures in a different way.
R72K5
Banned
yes main needle = needle seat
you know what i mean
and the hinge pin is what the float pivots on
you have to atg least kow basics of Q jet carbs before servicing them
i think you need to lok at exploded view diagram that comes with kit before doing this or find one online theres all kinds online, i have some somewhere around here
go to google
good luck
you know what i mean
and the hinge pin is what the float pivots on
you have to atg least kow basics of Q jet carbs before servicing them
i think you need to lok at exploded view diagram that comes with kit before doing this or find one online theres all kinds online, i have some somewhere around here
go to google
good luck
Thanks I measured it and it was just 1/32 under the spec. I just wanted a base line before I remove it.
Also I realize that I may have a bigger problem. The carb I want to rebuild is a 77 which has a different float bowl and gasket then the 3 other 78's I have. I've been collecting cheap carbs from ebay. The 77 has a really clean float bowl with most of the grean still remaining. The base has an issue. The outlet for air (I'm not sure of the name, it is unnumbered but just to the left of number 405 in the diagram below) is crimped. I thought that I could bent this back but it is starting to split now. Can this be removed and a new part pressed in? Or do I need to get a new base? Maybe I could use the bases from the 78's but I know that the bowl was changed for these years. Also all carbs share the numbering
17058213 - the 78's
17057213 - the 77
Diagram
http://dyeager535.topcities.com/TablePics/CCCqjetdiagram.jpg
Also I realize that I may have a bigger problem. The carb I want to rebuild is a 77 which has a different float bowl and gasket then the 3 other 78's I have. I've been collecting cheap carbs from ebay. The 77 has a really clean float bowl with most of the grean still remaining. The base has an issue. The outlet for air (I'm not sure of the name, it is unnumbered but just to the left of number 405 in the diagram below) is crimped. I thought that I could bent this back but it is starting to split now. Can this be removed and a new part pressed in? Or do I need to get a new base? Maybe I could use the bases from the 78's but I know that the bowl was changed for these years. Also all carbs share the numbering
17058213 - the 78's
17057213 - the 77
Diagram
http://dyeager535.topcities.com/TablePics/CCCqjetdiagram.jpg
Here is a picture showing the parts removed from the base.
http://www.tbns.net/qjetcarbs/partsbig.jpg
http://www.tbns.net/qjetcarbs/partsbig.jpg
I know on my site, you can't link direct to the picture. That's what you get for free lol.
All of the ports on the Q-jet (short of the brake booster fitting) are press in's. If you can get another one out, you can swap them.
You have to be real careful on swapping any part of the 3 main castings of the Q-jet. Almost without exception, ONE of the cast passages has always been different in my experience. You can tear it apart and compare, but that's about the only way in my opinion to know for sure.
If you want it to look good, you may not have much choice, although I'd be surprised if the Eastwood company didn't sell some kind of paint to make the carb look new. I gave up on making it look pretty, I just made it clean.
All of the ports on the Q-jet (short of the brake booster fitting) are press in's. If you can get another one out, you can swap them.
You have to be real careful on swapping any part of the 3 main castings of the Q-jet. Almost without exception, ONE of the cast passages has always been different in my experience. You can tear it apart and compare, but that's about the only way in my opinion to know for sure.
If you want it to look good, you may not have much choice, although I'd be surprised if the Eastwood company didn't sell some kind of paint to make the carb look new. I gave up on making it look pretty, I just made it clean.
