lochenjons
1/2 ton status
Fuel comes up the lines right up to the carb. It's not the filter, i cleaned it and I tried it without it and it still wouldn't work. Where does the fuel go after the filter? It must be something after thatdyeager535 said:
CK5
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Quadrajet rebuild
- Thread starter lochenjons
- Start date
Needle and seat, float, would be next.
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
I thought it might be something like that, but was hoping it wouldnt be because I'm not really sure how you supposed to adjust or do anything to the float I just threw it in there...sorry I don't know much about these thingsLVJimmy said:
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
OK! I got it to work! 
The problem was the little needle thing that goes over the bracket that is part of the float wasn't over the bracket thing it was underneath it. Its idling great, only problem is if I give it a lot of gas and then let it idle itll want to die and sometimes does die. But that might just be that it hasn't run for over a month maybe? Anything else it could be? Float is properly adjusted. BTW a great site for rebuilding info:http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.html
Helped me tons
The problem was the little needle thing that goes over the bracket that is part of the float wasn't over the bracket thing it was underneath it. Its idling great, only problem is if I give it a lot of gas and then let it idle itll want to die and sometimes does die. But that might just be that it hasn't run for over a month maybe? Anything else it could be? Float is properly adjusted. BTW a great site for rebuilding info:http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.htmlHelped me tons
Vacuum leak or idle speed
BlaKK54Speed
1/2 ton status
so is it better than it was before? worth it?
also how much was it, i need to do mine.
also how much was it, i need to do mine.
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
Well it seems like its fixed itself, but now I'm having other problems (not engine related) with my truck so I cant really drive it quite yet. It seems like it was running a little rich right after the rebuild still but I dont think it is anymore. It runs WAY better (even with it running rich a little but being a qjet I think theyre supposed to adjust themselves or something so it probably did fix itself). Its idleing smooth, the engine doesnt shake so much like its gonna rip itself apart like it did before. I had a ton of dirt in mine tho. The rebuild I got was like $15, I'd get a much better one if I were you, but where I got this from it was the only one they had. If you havent done it before itll be a pain (especially if you dont take good/enough/any pics). If I were to do it again, it would be a breeze (mostly cause i messed up enough times and had to take my carb apart again so many times I could do it blindfolded now). Still definately worth it. Heres so more links too that helped tons:BlaKK54Speed said:
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Rochester/QJet/1973/pages/Image02_jpg.htm
http://www.florida4x4.com/tech/quadrajet/
http://www.nastyz28.com/~ericf/tech/qtune.pdf
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.html
If I had those before I probably wouldn't have made the mistakes I did, and if i'd taken better pics. Think about what your doing, take pics, read those links, and itll be easy
BlaKK54Speed
1/2 ton status
sweet man thanks for the advice, ill definately do that. gonna do mine here this spring.
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
Alright it runs! I drove it for a bit too. I figured out another thing I did wrong. The arm the controls the primarys wasnt put on quite right so they wouldnt open them all the way and wouldnt give it enough air. It runs and idles great....almost. If I give it a lot of gas while I'm driving, (didnt seem to do it in N or when i revved it with the carb) itll sputter a bit and try to go but doesnt. If I let off the gas itll idle fine again. What gets me is that it wouldn't do the same thing when I revved it with the carb?....My parking brake doesnt work either now...
(add that to the list of annoyances). Any ideas?
I drove it for a bit too. I figured out another thing I did wrong. The arm the controls the primarys wasnt put on quite right so they wouldnt open them all the way and wouldnt give it enough air. It runs and idles great....almost. If I give it a lot of gas while I'm driving, (didnt seem to do it in N or when i revved it with the carb) itll sputter a bit and try to go but doesnt. If I let off the gas itll idle fine again. What gets me is that it wouldn't do the same thing when I revved it with the carb?....My parking brake doesnt work either now... (add that to the list of annoyances). Any ideas?
Timing, choke maladjusted, improper secondary adjustment to name a few possibilities.
improper secondary adjustment is my guess.dyeager535 said:
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
Thats what it felt like to me but I'm way to sick to even get out of bed let alone go outside and fix itLVJimmy said:
....stupid crustitis. Other then when I give it more gas than I usually ever do, it runs great! Probably better than it ever haslochenjons
1/2 ton status
Ok I took a look at it and the thing the mettering rods for the secondaries hold on to on the top that go up and down with the secondaries opening is bent a little, would this throw everything off? I'm guessing it would 
...Can you buy this at autozone or someplace? Might as well get new meterring rods too while I'm at it. I drove it today and it shot out a little soot again, I'm guessing (hoping actaully) that this is residual crap left over from before the rebuild and its not running way rich again (considering it sounds and runs fine)?
...Can you buy this at autozone or someplace? Might as well get new meterring rods too while I'm at it. I drove it today and it shot out a little soot again, I'm guessing (hoping actaully) that this is residual crap left over from before the rebuild and its not running way rich again (considering it sounds and runs fine)?
The secondary rod "hangar" as its commonly referred to, could likely cause the rods/air valve to hang open.
It's pretty soft, unless it's bent other than where the two tabs the rods hang off it, just bend it right.
If the rods aren't worn through the chrome plating where they seat in the jets (you'll see it if they are, it will be a dark, rough ring that is obviously corrosion of the base metal) don't worry about replacing them. They can 't "go bad" by themselves, other than that wear/corrosion. Make sure the little hanger portion of the rods look the same, those are fairly easy to bend too.
It's pretty soft, unless it's bent other than where the two tabs the rods hang off it, just bend it right.
If the rods aren't worn through the chrome plating where they seat in the jets (you'll see it if they are, it will be a dark, rough ring that is obviously corrosion of the base metal) don't worry about replacing them. They can 't "go bad" by themselves, other than that wear/corrosion. Make sure the little hanger portion of the rods look the same, those are fairly easy to bend too.
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
I already bent them "right" the first time, they're off a little which is what I noticed today. They go up and down with the secondaries opening, so they probably work just not great. I kinda was wondering if they have to perfectly aligned and whatnot. What actaully opens the secondaries? I thought it was the linkage thing on the side that goes to the choke. But I dont see anyway the choke or anything there that could move that would even move that linkage. Maybe that's my problemdyeager535 said:The secondary rod "hangar" as its commonly referred to, could likely cause the rods/air valve to hang open.
It's pretty soft, unless it's bent other than where the two tabs the rods hang off it, just bend it right.
If the rods aren't worn through the chrome plating where they seat in the jets (you'll see it if they are, it will be a dark, rough ring that is obviously corrosion of the base metal) don't worry about replacing them. They can 't "go bad" by themselves, other than that wear/corrosion. Make sure the little hanger portion of the rods look the same, those are fairly easy to bend too.
The secondary air valves are pulled open via vacuum, and held open via airflow. The hangar is "lifted" because there is a cam it rides on, that is attached the to secondary air valve shaft.
The secondary rods/hangars are not a precise setup, but I wouldn't want the holes in the hangar, or the ends of the rods uneven, as that could potentially cause one or both rods to not seat fully, which could allow gas into the engine when it isn't needed.
The secondary rods/hangars are not a precise setup, but I wouldn't want the holes in the hangar, or the ends of the rods uneven, as that could potentially cause one or both rods to not seat fully, which could allow gas into the engine when it isn't needed.
I used to get parts from the dealer then from edelbrock. I'm not sure where you can get them now.
If you need a new hanger let me know I have a few hanging around.
If you need a new hanger let me know I have a few hanging around.
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
Alright I fixed it! I switched out the hanger and metering rods with another and it runs great at any speed. Heres just some of the gunk that was in the carb before the rebuild:
I switched out the hanger and metering rods with another and it runs great at any speed. Heres just some of the gunk that was in the carb before the rebuild:
