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Quality of cheap paint job?

RENO88

1/2 ton status
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I know you get what you pay for, but I want to spend 500 on paint job. I plan to order a few new trim pieces before. I'm thinking of matching the factory grey, blue combo there is no rust, and no dents.
Have you seen any decent turnouts? Post pics if you have them.
 
since we're on econo paint jobs!,,`back in da day' we used `single stage' paint,,no clear coat the `quality' was based on the `resin'>lowest being ALKYD enamel next up the chain was ACRYLIC enamel then the POLYEURATHANE enamel,,,

Lacquer of course but it was labor intensive on a `complete' refinish format and was mostly utilised for spot or multi panle repairs and of course the GM cars had lacquer finishes(yes! those were the days) you can spray lacquer anywhere and not even wet down the floor it drys quick and must be polished to get the final gloss desired,it also didn't fill much in the way of scratches and had to be 400'dddd before topcoating,,,, still with me???:D

alright mo coffeee!!!:eek1:,,let's hit the ENAMELS=back to the RESIN or VEHICLE,,,the pigment or color is ground plastics, mica,aluminum,without them you'd have a clear resin and in fact the old technolgy was the `colorant' was what deflected the UV radiation=white deflected the best and silver= died or fell off first,why? think of a bowl of water and flour the rays will hit the dense material and disperse,now think of a bowl of water with cheerios,this is your silver metalic,the sun burns thru all the way,,,,,all the various layers expand and contract EVERY DAY ALL DAY still hanging with me here? DAMN this coffee is rockin:laugh::laugh::laugh:mmmm

your `cheaper' resin like an alkyd won't weather as well as an acrylic and the poly= eurathane was created to paint aircraft with,the hydrol fluid would leak and the paint wouldn't stay on the bottoms of the wings for instance =this is where the use of activators originated,poly or polyester needs to have a chemical reaction to jell it it won't air dry by itself,but it makes the paint more flexible over the long haul and in fact my suburban was pummeled with rocks by 3 year olds and it barely left a mark,it stayed rubbery for about two years

and of course we arrive HERE in a world of `base/clear ' EURATHANE':rolleyes: yes they work well are easy to learn to apply and do not stain easily plus the clear cures quick can be polished quickly,color matches are `cake' now and the total price for paint most hondas(paint material) is about 350-600 bucks depending on the color and the line used econo for older completes and primo for new ones,,it's the same exposure warrenty=5 years 3 years for a single stage(no clear,,HAVE you been listening or what?:eek1:

okwell it's been a slice,i'm jacked now jack! :eek1:,,have to run gottsta spray/blend a side a hood fender top reverse wrap step down the door clear it off down to there dodge truck later!:haha::haha::haha:;) i'm ready to mop that bastid!let me at that sumbeeeotch!!!!!

wtf? :confused:
lol
 
some people don't have any, with my post i attempted to lay out the various paint materials that can be utlised to refinish a motor vehicle at varying prices also to give the man asking the questions about `econo' `paint jobs' an idea of how long it will last as well as how to get a `better' econojob for the same price,HOWEVER,,,you can read the same stuff in a car craft or hot rod magazine

labor rate here in a bondoshop is 400 per day,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,AND (are chu ready?:D) it's 28.50 per refinish hour per panel less(deduct) overlap

i'm putting 5 thousand labor in my rig because i might just drive that sumbitch for a decade or two,maybe three,that would make me 82:laugh: gotta run! blowin down the booth,my mop is soaking and she'sa gonna be a good one!!!!!:wink1:

I know how "bad" it can be to repair vehicles, as I work in the auto insurance side of things :doah:. My "wtf/lol" was directed at deciphering your post. :wink1:
-Louie
What part of OR are you in?
 
I know how "bad" it can be to repair vehicles, as I work in the auto insurance side of things :doah:. My "wtf/lol" was directed at deciphering your post. :wink1:
-Louie
What part of OR are you in?
X2 i had a hard time deciphering myself
 
Well i'll show you mine but mine cost a LOT less than $500 :D more like 25 bucks hahaha

mind you this was all rattle can

 
No one here has done the roll on job? I did it on my DD, cost about 75 bux and looks like I sprayed it on

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&an=0&page=0#Post2655425

Read the entire thread if you have time, it was featured in Hot Rod a while back
I'm not exactly sure how you rolled it on. there's alot of posts and i don't really have time to read the WHOLE thing. I just don't see how it worked out for you guys and what type roller you used and such

Any helps appreciated ;)
 
The entire post is several hundred pages long, they keep locking it and starting new ones.

http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Rollering+Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane+Paint

I did my pickup in black, it turned out alright..The only reason I rolled it on is because I have no place to spray anything. The roller method can look really good with a fair amount of patience, but if you have the room and equipment to spray it would be much faster.

the merits of roll and tip have been heavily discussed and debated in here...

I've painted hundreds of boats with the method..

someone search for that thread where I argued with everyone... :haha:
 
the merits of roll and tip have been heavily discussed and debated in here...

I've painted hundreds of boats with the method..

someone search for that thread where I argued with everyone... :haha:
you mean the paint on a budget thread?? haha i remember that one. LONGGGG
 
the merits of roll and tip have been heavily discussed and debated in here...

I've painted hundreds of boats with the method..

someone search for that thread where I argued with everyone... :haha:

I remember that...I was going to comment...but I ran!!! :crazy:
 
That moparts.org link is pretty interesting. A guy at work mentioned roller painting his car a few months back and I thought he was :screwy: . He still might be :screwy: but it is interesting to know that it can be done.
 
I painted my dented up DD using the roller method, It takes alot more work than a base/clear, but is much less messy and can even be done outside if you have to. It requires minimal supplies and a few cheap quarts of paint. The prep is very easy, no primer even needs to be put down ( unless you really want to hassle with it) just scuff /sand and roll it on. My feeling is paint is paint, it really doesnt matter how it gets on there, as long as you can make the stuff stick.
 
a good cheap paint is omni :you can get the paint,primer,hardner for about $350 in some pretty cool colors.i saw a 1 gal of white pearl sell for a 100 bucks (it had a lot of pearls in it according to label).i'm renting my local maaco shops paintbooth to do my crewcab..
i will try to find pics of my yota paint
 
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