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Question about 2 piece driveshaft

protechk5

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Well my old auto tech teacher back from high school is selling me a 465/205 combo that im going to swap out for my 400/208. He has everything I need, including a 2 piece rear ds, I think he said it needed a bearing or something. But should I use this or just get a 1 piece? I plan on doing a 4" shackle flip with maybe on some 2" springs, so 6" tops total. What is better? This will all be on my m1008 , so its longbed. Thanks
 
well the 2 piece can be used to get your driveshaft up and out of the way of rocks. other than that, i'd run a regular shaft just for less joints. just depends on what you want to do.
 
I think he meant a DS with one end that slides into the other (like a tractor PTO shaft). If this is what you were given, you will need to keep this in order to get the shaft installed as well as keep the ujoints from binding at full droop or compression. Unless someone did a slip yoke conversions to the back of the 205. Then a one piece can be used.
 
cabledawg said:
I think he meant a DS with one end that slides into the other (like a tractor PTO shaft). If this is what you were given, you will need to keep this in order to get the shaft installed as well as keep the ujoints from binding at full droop or compression. Unless someone did a slip yoke conversions to the back of the 205. Then a one piece can be used.

thats still a "1 piece" drive shaft. he means 2 piece shaft as in attached together by a u-joint in the middle. hes swappin in a 465/205 fixed yoke
 
It does need a carrier, aka center support bearing. It mounts to a crossmember on the frame with two bolts. They are only about $20 or so.
 
rhino105amx said:
It does need a carrier, aka center support bearing. It mounts to a crossmember on the frame with two bolts. They are only about $20 or so.
$20 from where? And I would use a 1 piece for the rear. I only have a 2 piece up front for angle and it keeps it out of the rocks like mentioned above.
 
only thing you need to watch for is some of the two piece driveshafts had a bigger carrier bearing my old truck had the big one and it was like 50 bucks and oll the parts stores around here had to order it
 
This is the one my Suburban used. Autozone Carrier Bearing (Driveshaft)
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TIMKEN Carrier Bearing (Driveshaft) for a 1978 Chevrolet Truck K20 3/4 ton Sub 4WD
Unit Price: $15.99Core Value*: $0.00Part No.: HB88107AWeight: 2.6 lbs.Warranty: Availability:
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Online: Ships within 2 business days
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Store: Normally Stocked Note:
(Hanger brg assy) Spicer 1280, 1310, 1330; 1.3780" bearing
 
I have a 2 piece and there are plus and minuses to it..

pro
shaft is up higher... from pumpkin it shoots up to the carrier bearing.. on a pretty harsh angle... then goes up a tad to the transfer case on a slight angle


con
wheel hop.. I can mash the gas hard enough and get my rear tires to hop due to it
1 more universal... it goes universal from tcase to carrier bearing then slip portion of shaft to universal.. then shaft to universal to pumpkin (if i remember correctly)

you can see the shaft angle in this pic.. I was picking up the rear of the truck along with springs.. to get factory block out.. so that is the angle of my shaft.....
high_lift_rear1.jpg


prerunner_no_door.jpg
 
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