question about 64" rear springs(moving rear hanger)

[muddermilitia]

Alright I started installing my 64 inch springs last night. I am keeping the front mount where it is and was planning on moving my shackle hanger back.

But, the bottom of the frame has a little hump right where i was going to place the hanger. I may be able to get the hanger where I want it but I would have to modify the hanger. So before i start cutting my ORD shackle flip bracket how have you guys done this?

I will try and get some pics tomarrow to help visualize my problem

Thanks, Ryan

 

[muddermilitia]

ttt anyone? I'll get a pic later today, the truck is not at my house

 

[clarkjw24]

here is a link to the same question and what Ryan did.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148872&highlight=shackle+flip+hump

 

[muddermilitia]

Alright here's a pic of what's giving me trouble. MY brother and I have been talking about it and I think we are going to cut the frame like Ryan and those other guys did

 

[rdn2blazer]

thats an easy fix. just take a cut off wheel and cut a slot to the bottom of the frame where the flat part of the frame and the radius of the frame start. cut it the length of the hump.

then cut a slot from the center of the bump inboard to the frame edge. cut all the way inboard through the edge. cut up through the frame radius and stop where the frame gets flat on the side.


then on the side of the frame where the flat side meets the radius that radius's to the bottom, cut a straight slot the length of the bump, then cut two slots starting at one end of the slot on the side you just cut to the center of the bump with a slight angle down to meet the cut you made horizontal to the frame inboard. then do the same thing on the other end of the slot to the center of the bump.

you will end up with gap on the side of the frame where the bump is that kind of has a pie shape. then you pound up one side to close the gap, then the other side. how ever much overlap you have is how much you cut off to end up with a but weld joint. also you are preserving the original radius that goes from the side of the frame to the bottom of the frame.

then weld it all back together and grind the outside to flush with the frame surface. get it?? use a piece of steel and clamp it to the bottom of the frame to hold everything flat. then do a couple of tacks first to hold the repair still and flat. remove the flat piece and finish weld it.

I did this and it worked perfect, looks as though there was never a bump on the bottom of the frame, just looks straight. only thing you notice is the hole on the bottom is not fully round, its like 2 cressent shapes closed together. I did the about a year ago with pics but I cant find the link.

hope this helps