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Question about changing front gears

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K5on38s

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i just got new 4:10's for the front of my 89 K5.....So be fore i go and tare my truck apart i need to know how to get the front diff out? i know i gotta pull the c clips and pull the axle out to do the rear but how do you do it in the front?? wont the wheel u joints stop em? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
You have to pull out the hubs, and then take off the rotor. Then remove the spindle. then you should be able to slide out the axle enough to get it out of the way.
 
in a 1/2ton i gott a remove the balljoint to remove the spindle right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
<font color="green"> OK, the first step would be to buy a service manual, either a Haynes or a Chiltons. No need to remove the ball joints. </font color>
 
while your in there, check your wheel joints. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
Ok i got the passsanger side hub, Rotor bearins off. i got he dif cover off and the center pin and the top/bottom spider gears outta the carrier how do i get the 2 spider gears onthe axles out?? The axles dont push in far enough to get the clips ( witch i cant see anyways) out. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
<font color="green"> You didn't buy a manual, did you? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif There are no c-clips on a front axle. A steering axle is inherently a full floater, hence no c-clips. Just pull the axleshafts straight out through the knuckles once you get the spindles off. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
 
i did buy a manual, i bought a haynes it sucks, no pictures but im kinda in the dark cuz i dontn what to look for... i donno ill figure it out tommorow, i gotta work 3rd shift tonight and i have off tommorow night so ill have allllllll day to deal with it /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif but i gotta got to bed i havent gone to bed yet and its alrady 6:40pm here
 
Im having my fathers friend help me, he's got the tools and the "know-how". Id end up turning it into mangled mash of glittery gear lube /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.
 
UGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! last night i got every thing apart, and took the carrier and the pinion out, and changed the ring gear.well i neglected to remeber 1 small detail....... the pinion bearing is pressed on. This is definatly not one of those things you wanna realize at 8pm on a saturady night, since no one is open on sunday!! so i went and bought the new pinion bearing and now i just gotta wait til monday do have it pressed on /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Just so you know, the smaller 12 ton hydraulic presses are only about $100 and do a great job on things like this.
Barring that, yeah you'll have to wait till Monday.
-- Mike
 
how about stickin the bearing in the oven at 350 degrees for 20minutes and the pinion in the frezzer for 2-3 hours??? lol im a desperite man lol, i figured id ask b4 i tried somthing that sounds a little /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Any
o-"pinion"s....on the pinion idea lol i crack my self up...lol
 
thats the poor mans way. I have done that several times. I put the pinion gear is a bag and put in freezer for a couple of hours. I put the bearing on my lead light bulb. Directly on the bulb. a couple hours later... wahlaaa!
There are shims that go behind the bearing though. These are needed to set the pinion depth. I have a spare pinion bearing that was honed out to easily slide on and off. I use this to set pinion depth BEFORE new pinion bearing is installed.
 
ok, im tryin to set the depth right now but the sleeve wont crompress and if it does its less than a millimeter. im usin the old bearing and an impact gun the guns band new and the tank as at 150psi wtf am i doin rong???? there isnt any one on this board that lives in NY near buffalo that could /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif me out seein as ive never done gears b4......lol i wish the computer was at my garage so i wouldnt have ot come hoe everytime i got a Question....lol
 
<font color="green"> The crush sleeve on my 14 bolt just laughed at my impact, and it was a good quality 1/2" one on a compressor running 175PSI. I ended up using a breaker bar with a 4' cheater on it. The yoke was clamped in a vise, the breaker and cheater bars on the socket, and I had all my weight on it, with both feet planted firmly on the side of the workbench before I could get the sleeve to start crushing. I'm no small fry either, 250 lbs and only mostly dough. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Repeat the grunting, feet on the workbench thign about 25 times and you should have it crushed. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif On the D44 it's probably more awkward since there's no removable pinion carrier, but you're going to need a breaker bar and big long cheater bar. Just try not to lever the truck off of the jackstands... Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font color>
 
the crush sleeve IS VERY hard to crush. I have a heavy duty ingersal rand 1/2 impact that chrushes them on 120psi. I don't think you should be using the crush sleeve with old bearing. The crush sleeve is how you set preload to the bearing. If you use it on the old bearing it won't be set for the new bearing. If it's chrushed to much, the new bearings will not be preloaded properly and will most likely fail. These CANNOT be reused! My depth kit has a spacer to replace that sleeve that has a preset thickness. and depth is measured from the centerline of the carrier to face of gear. If you use a crush sleeve and try and measure, It can end up with incorrect readings. Like i said, the crush sleeve is designed to set bearing preload. which should be 20-30 inch pounds of rotational force
 
i ended up usin a 3' pipewrench on the yoke and my custom made 3/4" 4' breaker bar. it went on like butter....
 
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