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Question about lengthening a driveline.

colbystephens

colbystephens

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Due to my new lift, I need to have my rear driveline lengthened. When the u-joint is sitting in the yoke of the axle, the slip yoke end is completely extended with little to no engagement of the splines. On the 241, that's 5" of slip.

I'm wondering how much I should tell them to lengthen the shaft? On a rear shaft, I can't imagine that there's that much compression (or slip in either direction, really). I was thinking lengthening it 3 inches. I figure I'll ask their opinion too, but wanted to see if there was a general consensus.
 
when i did mine, i had them push it 5.5"
that was a shackle flip with reveresed 56s, and perches that push the axle back another 1". at rest i have about 2.5-3" of slip showing.
if you want i can measure it tonight, or take pictures for you if it will help you at all.
 
HAD or Denny's Driveshafts have forms on their website to get an accurate measurement. I would not use someone else's setup for reference.
 
Measure from the center of the yoke, where the cap/u-bolt starts, and to the end of the output shaft at ride height. Take that number in and they should make it right. If you dont need a long slip drive shaft, they'll use stock measurements and out it right where is should be at ride height.
 
plyr2k said:
Measure from the center of the yoke, where the cap/u-bolt starts, and to the end of the output shaft at ride height. Take that number in and they should make it right. If you dont need a long slip drive shaft, they'll use stock measurements and out it right where is should be at ride height.
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I agree.

If the shop doesn't know how long to make it with your description, take it elsewhere.
 
The first thing you want to do is find a shop who you'll use to retube your driveshaft then CALL them and ask them how THEY want you to measure so you get the correct length the first time. DON'T go looking at driveshaft websites and use their method and then have someone else build it as they may use a different method which would make the shaft not come out the correct length.
 
I would suggest going to the junkyard and getting a driveshaft from a truck and having it shortened.

My local driveline place charges only 53bucks to shorthen and balance while getting one lengthened is around 150 or so.
 
I briefly considered that idea, but the cost of a longer driveline plus the value for my time to go find it makes that extra $100 worth it to me. I can certainly appreciate that method, as it does make a lot of sense.

I ended up driving down to the shop and then they had me go back with my driveshaft and remeasure to make sure it was all right. Probably good on their part, but annoying on mine! :D
 
colbystephens said:
I briefly considered that idea, but the cost of a longer driveline plus the value for my time to go find it makes that extra $100 worth it to me. I can certainly appreciate that method, as it does make a lot of sense.

I ended up driving down to the shop and then they had me go back with my driveshaft and remeasure to make sure it was all right. Probably good on their part, but annoying on mine! :D
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I am dealing with this now. Having a standard shaft made for the rear, calling tom woods for the long slip for the front.
 
jekquistk5 said:
I am dealing with this now. Having a standard shaft made for the rear, calling tom woods for the long slip for the front.
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I haven't decided what I'll do about the front driveline yet. I should consider the long slip idea.
 
colbystephens said:
I haven't decided what I'll do about the front driveline yet. I should consider the long slip idea.
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I have 52's in the front, and longer shackles. So I have a bunch of droop in the front. I plan on limiting uptravel but not sure if I want to limit droop.
 
I believe it was Superlift that makes a front driveline spacer and that would be the cheapest route for the front shaft for the moment.
 
At completely full extension of the slip shaft, I still need another inch or two, so unless that spacer is a few inches thick, I'm not sure it'll work. I'd heard they have an inch spacer. The thing is that I relocated my axles a bit, so that's part of the issue with the length.
 
4X4HIGH said:
DON'T go looking at driveshaft websites and use their method and then have someone else build it as they may use a different method which would make the shaft not come out the correct length.
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I have not seen multiple methods for measuring drive lines on any website. Seems to me there is a correct way to do it and any shop that doesn't follow that wouldn't get my cash.
 
Some places will have you place a Yoke a certain distance into the t-case (if a slip style) and then measure from center of u-joint to the center of u-joint on the diff yoke while others will have you measure from the center of the diff yoke to the end of the output shaft. If it's a fixed Yoke t-case then it is really easy as you would measure from the center of one u-joint to the center of the other and then the shop will have to determine the amount of slip needed in the shaft (need customer input about the amount of flex the rig will see).
 
I am certainly not one to question you Scott but... if you walked in to a shop that does drive lines with the forms filled out from Dennys I believe (maybe woods) and they didn't have ALL the info they needed? I would kick rocks to someone with at least half a brain.
 
I'm just saying that not all shops measure the same way and it's not that the different ways are correct/incorrect BUT if you use a method from shop A and that method is different than shop B and you end up at shop B there's a good chance you'll end up with a shaft that potentially isn't correct.
 
When i did the sas on my 03 hd i used a np241 case, when i had a new rear shaft done i called curtis at tatton driveline. He told me to push the slip yoke all the way in then pull it out 1.5-1.75 and measure from the yoke to the 14b yoke. That worked out perfect, but like said call around and see what shop you want then see how they want it measured...usually they all have a different way.

The 83 the local shop retubed the rear and he said slide the slip on the 205 all the way in then go 2 inches out and measure yoke to yoke. The front with having the 53's tho was measured flange to center of yoke and had 12 inches of slip added in.




Its the same as above tho all shops have different ideas...
 
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