Is the NP205 yolk supposed to use the straps? If so, I thought that the bolts actually screwed into the yolk itself. The regular ubolts dont fit it, they are too narrow. I used some bolts and a strap on it, but it came apart as soon as I locked the hubs in. Any recommendations? Or does anyone have a yolk for a 205 laying around that you know works and dont need?
CK5
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Question about NP205 ubolts ***Confirmed, its a CV.. Now What?***
- Thread starter us74k5
- Start date
k20
3/4 ton status
front output or rear? Pretty sure it uses U-Bolts. Stock front should be 1310 and rear should be 1350. I have a 10spline 1310 front output yoke should you need it.
I've never seen a 205 Yoke use straps. Stock on a GM were 1310 series but there are also 1350 series out there as well from other applications. If it's a 10 spline front (should be since it's a Yoke and not a flange). I have 2 of them available. If it's a rear Yoke then those are all 32 spline.
10 spline with a c/v head at the tcase end would be 4 bolts to hold the c/v head to the tcase yoke.
front shaft on all stock 205 i have seen with c/v head shaft would be 4 bolt on yoke halfs or flat flange. but no flat flange on 10 spline.
now if its a old like 72-down older i think thay can have a non c/v head shaft and would prob take ubolts. but i have only seen 1 and dont recall the way it ataches.
hope this helps.
and if you want 100% fix post up pics and we can help better.
front shaft on all stock 205 i have seen with c/v head shaft would be 4 bolt on yoke halfs or flat flange. but no flat flange on 10 spline.
now if its a old like 72-down older i think thay can have a non c/v head shaft and would prob take ubolts. but i have only seen 1 and dont recall the way it ataches.
hope this helps.
and if you want 100% fix post up pics and we can help better.
I'm assuming that the holes in the Yoke are not threaded and that you used bolts with nuts on the back side of the Yoke?
I just took a look at both Yokes i have that are 10 spline 205 front Yokes and they use u-bolts.
I just took a look at both Yokes i have that are 10 spline 205 front Yokes and they use u-bolts.
is there threads in the holes ? if not then its def a ubolt yoke. and i have never seen a strap yoke on a 205.
I thought only the 203 used the saginaw style C/V with the 4 bolts (the bolts threaded into the CV portion and not the Yoke on the t-case)
i have had a few 205 with the yoke style 205. older stuff mid 70's back.
and yes the bolts threaded in to the c/v head. not sure if i made this clear. sorry if it mixed up stuff.
and yes the bolts threaded in to the c/v head. not sure if i made this clear. sorry if it mixed up stuff.
Measure across the Yoke where the u-joint sits (the diameter of the cap) and see if the front and rear happen to be the same. For instance the Yokes i have here are for a 1 1/16" diameter cap and the holes are 1 1/2" on center. This is for a 1310 series u-joint.
ghostrider32
1/2 ton status
it is a spicer c/v yoke!!!!!!!! i have one on my 205 front output yoke. c/v has a cradle built into the c/v which strap style bolts are used to bolt the ujoint and cradle to the yoke.
I totally agree - you're missing the other 2/3's of the assembly and no straps / u-bolts are gonna substitute.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
That does look like my old 205 yoke. There were four bolts that went in from behind that yoke and threaded into a cv assembly. It was a pain to work with.
Ok so I went browsing through my trash pile of old parts. And sure as **** there was the old CV front drive shaft.......... What do I do now? Its about 4" too short, can I somehow convert my drive shaft that I had cut to fit, to a CV style? Or are would it be cheaper / easier to put a different yoke on it?
if you have c/v head and bolts = good.
then if you have a tube and slip yoke setup thats good = good.
new take them to a drive line shop and have tham make the 2 fit. thay will use the c/v head and the longer tube from your current shaft. and only need your measurment to make it. easy to cut down. but to add tube cost money.
or if you have a good friend with welder it can be done on the super cheep with patcience and time. just wont be ballenced.
then if you have a tube and slip yoke setup thats good = good.
new take them to a drive line shop and have tham make the 2 fit. thay will use the c/v head and the longer tube from your current shaft. and only need your measurment to make it. easy to cut down. but to add tube cost money.
or if you have a good friend with welder it can be done on the super cheep with patcience and time. just wont be ballenced.
Yeah that would be cool xcept the two are different kinds of drivelines. The one i had cut down for the rear is about a 4" dia driveline, used to be a rear one. The stock front is about 2" i think. However I do have two front drivelines, i am considering cutting a chunk out of one, and welding it into the other. I dont care about it being balanced, just strong.
If you go this route make sure you sleeve the shaft either inside or outside otherwise the weld point WILL be the failure point.
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