I am thinking about painting my Blazer this summer . I have used Acrylic in the past but want to try 2 stage . I have used 2 stage on small parts and love the way it looks . Now the question I have is on the clear . When I painted the samll parts it seemed to dry pretty fast . On a whole rig is that a problem with drying to fast ? Or do I want use a catalyst that will take sometime to dry ? If it drys to fast will I have problems with overspray on the rig when I leave off ? Make any sense here ?
CK5
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Question about painting whole vehicle with 2 stage
- Thread starter 6.2 man
- Start date
its not the catalyst, its the reducer.. prolly a little fast... you usually want a slow or med temp reducer for a full job, depending on temp..if its real hot, you can even add a retarder to it to slow it down.. clear overspray will usually just melt into clear it has landed on anyway..
FYI:
Dupont and Omni have no reducer in the low VOC clears.
They have Slow, Medium and Fast hardeners...
I think they actually mix the reducer and hardener...to prevent over reduction.
Dupont and Omni have no reducer in the low VOC clears.
They have Slow, Medium and Fast hardeners...
I think they actually mix the reducer and hardener...to prevent over reduction.
i've seen that stuff... think i sprayed it once years ago and hated it... probably as good as waterbased paints... 
i'll take my oldschool technology.. there are many reasons one might want to change reductions from coat to coat.. i dont want some "idiot proof" paint that i can't control its reduction.. i'll stick with Glasurit...
dont even get me started on HVLP.
btw, what'd you squirt your purple in?
i'll take my oldschool technology.. there are many reasons one might want to change reductions from coat to coat.. i dont want some "idiot proof" paint that i can't control its reduction.. i'll stick with Glasurit...
dont even get me started on HVLP.
btw, what'd you squirt your purple in?
I'm old school too...BUT...
The main reason I use Omni...is price...
I just paid $236.00 for a gallon of color, a gallon of clear, a gallon of reducer and 2 quarts of reducer for my k30.
So....I don't mind roughing-it a little.
I just mix a quart of clear at a time.
It's been a while since I've used Glasurit...and Sikens.
No one sells it around here anymore.
So...If you're not using a HVLP...what are You using???
Not a Binks model 7...I hope...
Mine sits next to my Devilbis JGA.
I have a couple HVLP's...
It took some time to get used to them...
But I love my IWATA!!!!
I use half the material...to paint...and no overspray.
I sprayed the purple rig in PPG...
DBC color and DAU 82 clear..back in 96'...
PPG had to discountinue DAU 82 clear a couple years ago...
with the new VOC laws.
Many paint manufactures are selling clears without reducers...
but they can be reduced...it just takes some time talking to factory techs.
The main reason I use Omni...is price...
I just paid $236.00 for a gallon of color, a gallon of clear, a gallon of reducer and 2 quarts of reducer for my k30.
So....I don't mind roughing-it a little.
I just mix a quart of clear at a time.
It's been a while since I've used Glasurit...and Sikens.
No one sells it around here anymore.
So...If you're not using a HVLP...what are You using???
Not a Binks model 7...I hope...
Mine sits next to my Devilbis JGA.
I have a couple HVLP's...
It took some time to get used to them...
But I love my IWATA!!!!
I use half the material...to paint...and no overspray.
I sprayed the purple rig in PPG...
DBC color and DAU 82 clear..back in 96'...
PPG had to discountinue DAU 82 clear a couple years ago...
with the new VOC laws.
Many paint manufactures are selling clears without reducers...
but they can be reduced...it just takes some time talking to factory techs.
nah, i'm just being obstinant.. and yeah, that is pretty darn cheap...
i have HVLP in gravity, suction and my touch up gun... they just atomize like poo compared to the old stuff imho... but, your right the material saving and lack of overspray are nice... we hated em when they first came out and wouldn't use em at first when i was spraying 20 cars a week at the collision shop. but you're right, you do eventually get used to em... when i shoot cars and smaller projects i use em...
but i do run my #7 and JGA on my 2qt and 3 gal pressure pot for doing the boats.. tommorrow i'll be squirting about 3 gallons of Imron at work thru a pot..
and i use my MBC for gel work, need the volume... set up with a small needle, large cap and nozzle so i can move a thicker viscosity...
have you ever used a SATA? i hear their killer guns...
and yeah, that is pretty darn cheap...i have HVLP in gravity, suction and my touch up gun... they just atomize like poo compared to the old stuff imho... but, your right the material saving and lack of overspray are nice... we hated em when they first came out and wouldn't use em at first when i was spraying 20 cars a week at the collision shop. but you're right, you do eventually get used to em... when i shoot cars and smaller projects i use em...
but i do run my #7 and JGA on my 2qt and 3 gal pressure pot for doing the boats.. tommorrow i'll be squirting about 3 gallons of Imron at work thru a pot..
and i use my MBC for gel work, need the volume... set up with a small needle, large cap and nozzle so i can move a thicker viscosity...
have you ever used a SATA? i hear their killer guns...
SATA's....HELL YAH!!! 
I was enrolled at a Sherwin Williams tech class that had sata's..
But...I have basically the same gun...by IWATA.
Iwatas go for about half the price of a sata.
The atomizing isn't an issue with these guns..
They have that low pressure technology...so when you crank up the air...it can bust up super fine.
LOL....I used to spray busses with a model 7 pressure pot set-up..
I felt more like a fireman....than painter!!!!
I was enrolled at a Sherwin Williams tech class that had sata's..
But...I have basically the same gun...by IWATA.
Iwatas go for about half the price of a sata.
The atomizing isn't an issue with these guns..
They have that low pressure technology...so when you crank up the air...it can bust up super fine.
LOL....I used to spray busses with a model 7 pressure pot set-up..
I felt more like a fireman....than painter!!!!
Nicks 72
Registered Member
I use Satas and have had good results. Have one for base and one for clear.
We have the super low V.O.C. requirements (BAY AREA CA.) and its a bitch.Over the last ten years I have seen the price of everything go up at least three times so material costs becomes quite an issue.I love when people ask me for a cheap paint job.I cant buy legal materials for a complete for less then 600 bucks anymore. I have found that some clears(dupont) only work well in well drafted paint boths because they dry too quick and others will dry slower and melt in overspray better for those who paint in garages. Also as stated before hardeners and reducers come in different temp variants.
We have the super low V.O.C. requirements (BAY AREA CA.) and its a bitch.Over the last ten years I have seen the price of everything go up at least three times so material costs becomes quite an issue.I love when people ask me for a cheap paint job.I cant buy legal materials for a complete for less then 600 bucks anymore. I have found that some clears(dupont) only work well in well drafted paint boths because they dry too quick and others will dry slower and melt in overspray better for those who paint in garages. Also as stated before hardeners and reducers come in different temp variants.
