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Question about Pitman arm for Xover steering.... did some searching

Stephen, Is it not a good idea to run a Stock ford arm? do i need to get a dropped arm? i was under the impressition (sp?) that with xover steering you dont need the drop arm with 5 inches of lift. Im just hearing different things from different sources..... need to get it cleared up. Thx..
 
Nope, the brands are not mixed up because I personally ordered the Superlift #1104 arm and that is what I have in the pics. I still have the reciept from them for it, too.

I did buy a Skyjacker arm for an old '79 F150 I used to have when I installed a 6" lift and the Skyjacker arm looked exactly like the Parts Mike arm. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I have the Parts Mike arm.
it IS NOT tapered for 1 ton ends
 
Can't answer about the Ford arm, but my x-over from ORD came with a 4" dropped arm for my Jimmy with a 6" lift.
 
Funny, I corresponded with Mike himself and he confirmed it is setup for 1 Ton ends. Here's a copy of the email in case you wanted a little proof.

<snip>
Steven J. Hunt wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I recently converted my Dana 44 which is in my 74 K5 Blazer to
> crossover steering. I originally used the Avalanche high steer arm
> and the first trip out wheeling it twisted like a pretzel. Since they
> wont back their products when they fail, they have lost a customer
> and you have gained one.


Steve, sorry to hear that you have a problem, I'll try and help
>
> I'm interested in the following parts...
>
> 1: Super arm with correction #PM1001, I only need the passenger side
> arm so I'm assuming this is the right side arm. $119.95

Yes, you are correct on this.
>
> 2: One inch spacer (1.00") $24.99 each # PM0010 (this I need to bring
> my draglink closer to being parallel with the axle)

If you need a full 1" of height on the steering arm, this can be accomplished
using a 1/2" spacer as my arm is 1/2" taller then the normal flat arms. If a full 1.5" helps the 1" spacer is available as
you see. It does require different studs.
>
> 3: Drop pitmam arm with large GM taper (this doesnt list a part # or
> price, I need the info for this one please) also will this pitman be
> a direct bolt on to the stock GM 2wd gearbox? From the picture it
> looks like it'll be ok but I just want to be sure.

I have been using a 4" drop for this application, I normally taper
them to the larger GM Draglink taper as the ES2026R and ES2027L are
much stronger and allow for up to 60 degrees of up and down motion. I
sell this arm which will fit your 2 wd power box for $89.00
>
> Also I didnt see whether or not if you offer the 1" longer studs for
> the 1" spacer for the d44 knuckle. Can you check on that for me too
> please?

The only studs I have found that are 1" longer and have the
correct strength are ARP main bearing studs. I can get them or you can
pick them up from a speed shop or engine rebuilder.
>
> I really appreciate all your help and I look forward to doing business
> with you soon.
>
>
> Thanks again.
>
>
> Steven J. Hunt

Steve, I'm on my way to Las Vegas to the SEMA show. I'll be returning
Friday, if you call my office number and leave a message either myself
or Rich will return your call or page me (916)522-0925 I will return
your call! PS if my arms fail I'll return your money no questions asked.

Thanks,
Mike
</snip>
 
perhaps he has begun retapering them since my purchase.
the one I got from him is as the one you posted images of and fits the smaller tierod ends.
his selection of steering things has grown a lot since I purchased from him so perhaps he has stepped up.
he was very prompt and professional to deal with, I would spend money with him again.
 
Yah, I wasn't calling you a liar or anything but was just showing what I had received from him just recently. I too think that he has stepped up to the bigger ends so thats good news for people who have not purchased it yet.

One thing I like about his is the fact its 4" of drop. I need that much drop with my application and if the skyjacker or superlift arm only has 3", well thats just 1" more than I have now and although it will help some, it wont be enough of what I'm looking for.

Thanks for the input tho.
 
I dont recall what it is you are trying to tune out of your steering...
but you do realise that all you can do is choose the least annoying bumpsteer characteristics and not eliminate it with leaves.
horizontal bar will have the compression and extension both turn left
bar at an angle will, for the most part, have compression turn right and extension turn left.

full hydro is the only way to remove the steering linkage induced bumpsteer, then you will still have the bumpsteer the wheelbase changing will impart.

compromise is in order
 
I reply to Wes now but anybody can answere if you know the "eye to eye" measurement on those arms. On my current setup the wheels do not turn as much as they could before hitting the stops. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
Crap! I just had the pitman arm out last night. I should have measured that spec. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I'm at work right now.
 
Roughly 7 1/8" -+ since I didn't have any special tools to properly lay it straight. This measurement is from the center of each hole to the other.
 
Ok thanks. So now I know why the truck do not steer. The arm I have on it now is only 4 1/4" /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I think it was from a van and I made it fit. But not well enough. Must start looking for an other one, longer this time.
 
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