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Question about POR-15 or eastwood...

84gmcjimmy

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Hopefully in may or june I will pick up some POR-15 or eastwood's rust ecalapsor for my blazer frame. But I was just wondering, does anyone know the recommended temperature for the stuff to dry at? I have an option of putting the frame in the main part of the shop, taking up a lot of space...or put it back outside (in the carport maybe) and do it in there.

Suggestions? I'm no wear near coating it, I just need to plan ahead because I want to start stripping the frame in the next few weeks.
 
Off the top of my head I don't know what temp the manufacture recomends, but I'd say above 70 deg would be best. Humidity I believe is a bigger factor. Lower humidity the better. Also from my experience, POR seems to stay tacky longer when applied in direct sun (sounds like that isn't a problem for you though). Another point to note is POR doesn't like sticking to clean metal. Remove all loose rust and crap, but don't wire brush it until all the rust is gone, because the POR will peel up from those clean bare metal spots easier.

I know others have probably had different results. POR seems to be one of those things that the performance you get depends greatly on preperation and environmental conditions when applied.

Good luck!

Scott
 
mr_clean said:
POR seems to be one of those things that the performance you get depends greatly on preperation and environmental conditions when applied.

You can say that again! I switched to the Rust Encapsulator and have been very happy with the results. I wish they'd come out with more colors and sheens though. If you go with POR15 read and FOLLOW all the directions. If I remember correctly, you need to clean with their Marine Clean product and them etch with their Metal Prep product and them coat with POR15. If not, it'll peel in a year .... I know, I've been there :mad:

Eric M.
 
I have used por 15 a bit on rusty stuff and i have tried it on corse grit blasted surfaces. i know it doesent recomend clean metal surfaces, but it says nothing about grit blasted surfaces so i thought i would try it. I think it sticks allright but not real good on grit surfaces. I dont like at all the idea of covering up rust.I would rather remove it by griting it or grinding it off if possible. I have quit using it as I'm not real sastified with it. it fades like crazy in the sun. I know they have uv stuff now but I'm going the grit blast everything I can rout and paint it with a good self etching primer and topcoat. my frame has only surface rust and I sanded all that I could get to with an air angle sander with 120 grit discs, cleaned bare metal with laquer thinner then primed and painted. I have a couple of cans of the eastwood stuff but have never used it. hope this helps.
 
I did my frame with POR-15. I sandblasted it first, then used their Marine Clean to get any grease off. Then I used their Metal Ready solution to prep it for the POR-15. POR-15 works best on rusty surfaces, however, it can work well on clean metal if you prep it with their product. Metal Ready basiclly etches the metal, and also leaves a zinc phosphate residue that POR-15 really likes. I did mine indoors in a garage. As for humidity, actually POR-15 really does well in humidity. I actually used some to repair a washing machine I had that the edge of the top area rusted on. I took it apart, cleaned the areas that the porcelain type paint had come off of and rusted, then put on some POR-15. It was tacky for days until I ran the first load. The humidity from a load washed on warm made that POR-15 harden up big time. I've done my frame, two axles, Crane High Clearance diff covers, and many other parts on POR-15 and they seem to be holding up fine so far. I did two coats of POR-15 on the frame, then a coat of their Chassis Black just to make sure it didn't fade fast. Pics here: http://community.webshots.com/user/douglasgrant
 
desert rat, that looks awesome!!

I am probably going to go with the eastwood stuff...I think it's a few bucks cheaper, and then I don't need all that extra stuff POR-15 calls for. The frame won't be bare, it will just be cleaned and i'll use a flap disc on it...no sandblasting.
Depending on the temperature, I don't know where to do it. In the shop I can heat it up if need be. But outside, if it rains it will coool right now and possibly ruin it.
descicions!
 
Not sure about the Eastwood stuff but the POR also contains ISO's so make sure to use a good respirator (something more than a paper dust mask) with that stuff and use in ventilation.
 

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