Question about zero rates

[andyblack]

I've determined that I have a broken center pin on my front driver's side spring. The u-bolt started coming loose a little bit and I didn't catch it in time. Anyway, since I'm taking the springs loose from the axle to put a new center pin in, I figure I might as well install a pair of zero rates from Off Road Design while I'm at it since the front end sits a little lower than the rear now after I installed a heavy bumper and winch. My question is this: A lot of guys talk about moving the axle forward either 1" or 1.5" with the zero rates. I am currently running 4" Tuff Country EZ Rides (stock length front springs - 47" or whatever) and I still have the stock push-pull steering setup. I don't plan to do 52s or cross over any time soon; would there be any advantage for me to move the axle up 1" or 1.5"? I'm sure it's been done before by someone on here. Will the steering be affected as far as turning radius, steering effort, bumpsteer, etc.? Will my front driveshaft have enough slip yoke to handle the extension? Or should I just use the zero rates as a 1" lift and leave everything the way it is?

What do the experts say?

 

[BadassBlaze]

In because I want to know the same thing

 

[RootBreaker]

asside from me having xover steering.. i put my zero rate in more for the 1" lift in front.. didnt move axle forward..... maybe i am wrong.. but i dont think 1" forward would make that much of a difference.. now if you went with longer springs and the sort and pushed the front a few inches then id think youd see better results...

i dont know but isnt pushing the front axle forward more for the angles? like on my pickup i could bob the bed so when going up hill i dont drag the back?

 

[andyblack]

i dont know but isnt pushing the front axle forward more for the angles? like on my pickup i could bob the bed so when going up hill i dont drag the back?

I see what you mean. Moving the axle forward could improve the approach angle a little. Thanks. This is the kind of stuff I want to know.

Keep it coming...

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Moving the front axle forward will make your draglink even shorter which will exaggerate all the short comings of not having crossover.

I wouldn't move the front axle forward without crossover.

 

[andyblack]

Moving the front axle forward will make your draglink even shorter which will exaggerate all the short comings of not having crossover.

I wouldn't move the front axle forward without crossover.

That's what I was wondering about. I knew I would have to realign the steering if I moved the axle forward, at the least. I don't want anymore bump steer than I already have. Guess I'll just use the zero rate to raise the front an inch.

 

[70jimmy]

Never thought about it helping the approach / departure angles. Only thing I thought about was better fitting of the wheel in the wheel well to limit rubbing.

 

[andyblack]

Never thought about it helping the approach / departure angles. Only thing I thought about was better fitting of the wheel in the wheel well to limit rubbing.

You know, that's something else I was thinking about. I already have the back of the fender opening cut to where it's level with the inner fender and I've beat the inner fender in some, but sometimes the tires still contact the metal. They have a few cuts in them. I thought that the tire moving away from the inner fender would be an added bonus that would come with the zero rates, but I still don't think I'm going to move the axle forward. I don't want my steering to get any worse.

 

[6.2Blazer]

The main reason to move the front axle forward with the zero-rate is for tire clearance at the rear of the fender and firewall area.

I don't have any personal experience but right off hand I would doubt that the 1" would make any major difference in the bump steer with the stock steering.

 

[andyblack]

The main reason to move the front axle forward with the zero-rate is for tire clearance at the rear of the fender and firewall area.

I don't have any personal experience but right off hand I would doubt that the 1" would make any major difference in the bump steer with the stock steering.

Interesting. Maybe I'll start by moving the axle up just 1" and see how it does. I can always move it back if I need to.

I wish someone who has stock steering and has moved the axle up would post and tell us his/her observations. Anyone out there?

 

[bad_90blazer]

I am running the same 4" TC springs you have and have moved my axle forward 1.5" with a zero rate. I didnt notice any real difference in steering or bump steer at all. All I had to do was shorten my draglink a little, and I still have the factory push-pull set up. Seems to be fine.

 

[BlazerEMT89]

Just remember if you do move it forward 1 in and then you decide you want to go back to stock you will need to get a new center pin because of the set up.

 

[andyblack]

I am running the same 4" TC springs you have and have moved my axle forward 1.5" with a zero rate. I didnt notice any real difference in steering or bump steer at all. All I had to do was shorten my draglink a little, and I still have the factory push-pull set up. Seems to be fine.

Good to hear. Thanks. How about your front driveshaft's slip shaft? Still plenty of spline engagement? Don't want my shaft to come apart and bang a whole in the oil pan.

 

[bad_90blazer]

For the front driveshaft I got one of the Superlift drive shaft spacers thru Summit. It gave me an inch and seems to be working fine. I didnt want to spend a bunch on a front shaft and have the zero rate not end up working out or something. So until I get some one ton shafts and a SYE from High Angle thats what ill be running. You can always take your front shaft off and see how much slip you have left in it, you might not end up needing any more length.