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question for those with 52s up front...

jekbrown

jekbrown

I am CK5
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I have the double steering arms from WFO that allow you to put the tie rod above/behind the front axle. At the same time, I really wanna do the 52" spring swap for some flex. I planned on doing it the same way Sandman did... by moving the l-bracket looking thing from behind to in front of the body mount and using extended shackles.

Now right now, I could relocate my tierod back/above the D60 using the arms I have, all I'd need to do is move my shocks out of the way. Question is, to those that have 52s on their rig right now, does it look like a TR could be relocated in such a way? The arms are 6.25" from kingpin cap center to the center of the TRE mounting hole and are 1" thick. With my stock length (4" rancho HDs) springs there is enough clearance... and with a longer spring it would seem to follow that after the 52" mod I'd have even more clearance... but I'd like to hear educated guesses from those who have the longer springs and can take a look and "eye ball it" for me. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

opinions? thoughts?

I wanna end up with about 6" of front lift... to get it, I'd prolly remove the overload, but a leaf or two from another stock K5 spring pack.

here is a pic of the arms installed on an 89 chevy with a HP d60 furd front axle...

linky

j
 
Yeah that should work. I had standard Sky high steer arms on mine but had to get rid of the high steer because I had tie rod to pitman arm contact issue's at full bump on the drivers side.

I would also keep the overloads, they act as a poor mans hydraulic bump stop.
 
yeah, Ive heard that draglink / tierod collision can be a problem with standard histeer. That kinda sucks. Thankfully, my tie rod will be well out of the way of that. Only question is will it clear the springs etc. With my current springs, it also looks like the TR would be close to the oil pan... of course, the 52s move me up another 2 inches, so I guess that prob would be alleviated.

AFA the overload goes... Im not 100% sure... it'd prolly take some trial and error to get everything right. I plan on running real bumpstops to keep things from getting to wild up front. At first I plan on just trying a stock set of 52s... if they dont gimme enough lift I'll add a leaf from another pack and go from there. For clearance of everything and to be close to my rear suspension, I need about 6". I've heard everything from 3" to 6" being gained by the 52 swap so I'm not sure what I'll get out of it. I guess only time will tell. Of course, if I cant run my tie rod in the rearward position, I wont even swap the longer springs in at all... and hence this thread. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Ok then, thats 1 "it oughta work"... anyone else wanna chime in?

j
 
[ QUOTE ]
Yeah that should work. I had standard Sky high steer arms on mine but had to get rid of the high steer because I had tie rod to pitman arm contact issue's at full bump on the drivers side.

[/ QUOTE ]


ACk! Dammit, I just ordered my Sky Highsteer arms, and I have my axle FOURinches forward with a 1104 pitman arm...GRRRRRR. I guess moving the steering box forward is in order....DAMN!!! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

I even asked them if it would work.. "uhhh, I don't see why not"

I'll install it, try it, and let you know.
I would also keep the overloads, they act as a poor mans hydraulic bump stop.
 
return em and order from WFO. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Trevor over there is a great guy and he gets his products shipped out FAST.

j
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have the double steering arms from WFO that allow you to put the tie rod above/behind the front axle. At the same time, I really wanna do the 52" spring swap for some flex. I planned on doing it the same way Sandman did... by moving the l-bracket looking thing from behind to in front of the body mount and using extended shackles.

Now right now, I could relocate my tierod back/above the D60 using the arms I have, all I'd need to do is move my shocks out of the way. Question is, to those that have 52s on their rig right now, does it look like a TR could be relocated in such a way? The arms are 6.25" from kingpin cap center to the center of the TRE mounting hole and are 1" thick. With my stock length (4" rancho HDs) springs there is enough clearance... and with a longer spring it would seem to follow that after the 52" mod I'd have even more clearance... but I'd like to hear educated guesses from those who have the longer springs and can take a look and "eye ball it" for me. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

opinions? thoughts?

I wanna end up with about 6" of front lift... to get it, I'd prolly remove the overload, but a leaf or two from another stock K5 spring pack.

here is a pic of the arms installed on an 89 chevy with a HP d60 furd front axle...

linky

j

[/ QUOTE ]

I will let you know tomarrow as I am running the 52's, the WFO Reversed hi'steer arms, and just got my tierod and draglink... I am hoping to put them on tomarrow and I will post a pic up for you!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I will let you know tomarrow as I am running the 52's, the WFO Reversed hi'steer arms, and just got my tierod and draglink... I am hoping to put them on tomarrow and I will post a pic up for you!

[/ QUOTE ]

thats what I'm talkin about man, hook it up!

assuming this works, its gonna be a hot set up I think. The 52s is a great idea, but normal histeer wont work... behind the axle just might and if so it'll be the best of both worlds. Considering the flex pics Ive seen of 52s, I dont see a single reason to link up the front. I'll save myself a $hitload of cash and just deal with a slightly worse approach angle.

anyway, snap away with the camera amigo and hook me up! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

j
 
I shoulda mesaured approach before and after cause I know its better now than it was before, cause I hardly ever hit up there now and I used to hit all the time.
 
I emailed Trevor at WFO this same question awhile back. Said that his double arms are exactly what is needed for hi-steer with the 52" springs. If I still had the email I'd post it here. I'm definatley gonna go with his arms for hi-steer with my 52's. Was kinda bummed when I first heard that I couldn't use conventional hi-steer with the 52's, but all is well now. And WF)'s shop is less that 20 minutes from me too. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif No shipping. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
I haven't started it all today yet, but the only problem that I see that I might encounter is that w/ the 0rates in the front my tie rod might hit the springs... if so then I am going ot have to take the 0 rate out.
I will get some pics later today when I start working on it.
 
It looks to me like it would work great. I know that high steer will not work at all on mine now. I even have the high steer arm bolted up on the drivers side. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I haven't started it all today yet, but the only problem that I see that I might encounter is that w/ the 0rates in the front my tie rod might hit the springs... if so then I am going ot have to take the 0 rate out.
I will get some pics later today when I start working on it.

[/ QUOTE ]

yeah, I have measured/looked at my current setup and with zero rates the spring pack is definitely to thick to clear my tierod. I planned on pulling the zero rates and adding a leaf to the stock 52s if I need it to get 6" of total suspension lift.

j
 
Well, here are some pics. W/ the 0 rates the TR is close to the springs, but I think I have enough room. This is all just kinda sitting there and not adjusted or bolted in yet, and the stock tierod is still in its factory position. I will probably squirt some paint on this new stuff before I bolt it in for good.
11462Shot_from_behind_axle2.JPG

11462Shot_from_Behind_axle.JPG

11462Front_Shot2.JPG

11462Front_Shot.JPG
 
Well like I said I have the Sky Steering arms, and after screwing around a little bit with it, I think I can make it work if I move my axle forward another 1-2", then when the drives side compresses, the tie rod will be in front of the draglink. Only thing I'm worried about now is that the draglink and tierod cross eachother like an "X". Won't know till I try, fortunatly I have a bent draglink which I think ill provide more clearance. I've also toyed with the possiblity in my head of "reversing" the bent drag link, although that'll require some definite X member mods. I also have a stock ford pitman arms to try instead of the 1104 arm.

I'll let you all know how it unfolds, I expect my Sky steering arm in the next 3 days. I WILL make it work!!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Well like I said I have the Sky Steering arms, and after screwing around a little bit with it, I think I can make it work if I move my axle forward another 1-2", then when the drives side compresses, the tie rod will be in front of the draglink. Only thing I'm worried about now is that the draglink and tierod cross eachother like an "X". Won't know till I try, fortunatly I have a bent draglink which I think ill provide more clearance. I've also toyed with the possiblity in my head of "reversing" the bent drag link, although that'll require some definite X member mods. I also have a stock ford pitman arms to try instead of the 1104 arm.

I'll let you all know how it unfolds, I expect my Sky steering arm in the next 3 days. I WILL make it work!!!

[/ QUOTE ]

I don't mean to pee on your corn flakes, but I THINK the more you move your axle forward, the more bind you will have w/ standard hi-steer.
 
wow Pooh, you kick azz my friend. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Can't believe there is still some clearance even with the zero rates. yikes! I plan on removing my zero rates. I have access to two sets of 52s... so I'm just gonna add some leaves to get the 6" I need. I'd rather have a bit more room between the TR and the springs than that. BTW, is your axle relocated more than the 2" that the spring swap adds? right now I have redrilled perches that move me 1" forward...just wondering how that compared with what you have. I am considering recentering the springs on the perches... not sure I wanna move my front axle forward 3" or not. What complications does that cause? Also, My draglink doesnt have much adjustment left in it, I can't shorten it much more. When you moved the axle forward 2" for the new springs... did you have to shorten or lengthen your draglink?

oh yeah, one more thing... you have hydro assist? I need to find a good spot to mount my ram... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

j
 
I have the 2" from the springs, and the 1.5" from the zerorate. I didn't have crossover before, so I don't know what this does to the draglink length..?
I don't have hydroassist yet, but I am hoping to get it in the near future... I don't think mounting the ram will be to hard... it almost looks like it would be pretty simple to fab a plate to come off of the spring plate to mount it to...?
 
What's up guys, this is Trevor from WFO. As far as the 52's with the zero rates, the tierod looks pretty close. It may rub a little at full droop. If it rubs too much, you will have to take the zero rates out. As far as leaving the overload in the 52's, that is exactly what I did. I have 56" springs in the front of my 89 truck. My truck rides like a caddy, and the overloads seem to firm it up when I hit big bumps. The above picture is the 56's on my truck. If you guys have any more questions, e-mail [email protected].

Trevor Huiskens
www.wfoconcepts.com
 
do you have the link for this link? it goes to a 404 forbidden or something?>

[ QUOTE ]
here is a pic of the arms installed on an 89 chevy with a HP d60 furd front axle...

linky


[/ QUOTE ]
 
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