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Question: numerous empty space on fuse block

mrk5

mrk5

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The fuse block in my '89 crew cab is different from any remember seeing in my past GM trucks.

20130810_145249.jpg


There are a bunch of empty spots at the top. I'm wondering if these are there so that new things can be added. Does anyone have more info about them? Here are a couple of things I'm wondering about:
  1. Can I get a molded plastic plug specific to fit those slots?
  2. Any idea what kind of amp load they can handle?
  3. Do they have a fuse associated or do I need to use inline fuses?
  4. What do the few labels mean? (like WDO) And they seem to be color coded so some extent.

I just don't remember having a block with what appears to be the potential to easily wire in accessories.

I only put a test on a couple of them and it didn't seem like they all had power even with the ignition on.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Have you pulled the block off to se if they are wired? I may know where there are a bunch of those plugs. My brother has all of my dads old stuff? I remember seeing some in the box. I will check saturday.
 
I am guessing that the window power "outlets" may get power if there were terminals in that fuse socket..? I would try putting a fuse in the aux. heater socket and see if the outlets then have power. I myself would not put too much of a load in any that you may be able to make work as it seems that it would add to the work load of the old ignition switch and wiring. But I would also think that you could get some of the factory ampere load rating without getting into much voltage drop.
 
The ones across the top are what I call "Auxillary" taps. The colors denote when they will be hot. Some are battery 12V, some are hot only in start/run, and there might be others. As I recall, all are protected via 30A small circuit breakers that fit in the fuse-like slots, and I don't see any of those circuit breakers on your panel. There should be two AFAIK, that's how mine is set up. Since they are on 30A breakers, obviously you'd need to fuse each component separately, and not exceed 30A total for each color tap. Looking at your picture, the top right fuse (15A) looks to have a "30A" printed above it, that might be one of the circuit breaker locations.

Just like the plug in the upper left of that picture, you can get the correct plugs from most GM products from the mid 80's to early 90's. They are keyed, which is obvious in the picture...there will be a little tab that sticks out a particular way. You can use spade terminals, but no thanks.

I don't have my wiring manual in front of me, but I'd just take a voltmeter to each row (a particular color is wired the same) to make sure I was using the proper terminal for what I planned on doing.

If you are thinking of adding a bunch of electrical components, it may make more sense to just use a later model underhood fuse center. Use a tap from the stock fuse panel to switch relay(s) as needed, which will power a block of wiring on the underhood fuse center. If you start adding a bunch of wiring to the panel in those slots, it gets hard to deal with, and becomes a real pain to disconnect a specific one when you need to. Additionally, dealing with a true fuse block is easier than a whole bunch of inline fuses scattered all over the place. I started out adding a bunch of wiring to the taps, and running an aftermarket fuse block, but a factory fuse block, with integral relays, is a cleaner option.
 
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ktmoutfront said:
Have you pulled the block off to se if they are wired? I may know where there are a bunch of those plugs. My brother has all of my dads old stuff? I remember seeing some in the box. I will check saturday.
Click to expand...
That would be cool if you get a chance.

I haven't messed with the fuse block yet as far as pulling it apart.

6872xtc said:
I am guessing that the window power "outlets" may get power if there were terminals in that fuse socket..? I would try putting a fuse in the aux. heater socket and see if the outlets then have power. I myself would not put too much of a load in any that you may be able to make work as it seems that it would add to the work load of the old ignition switch and wiring. But I would also think that you could get some of the factory ampere load rating without getting into much voltage drop.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking I may go to the pick-n-pull and check out a couple of trucks around this vintage and see if I can source some plugs from a truck with power windows. Assuming the spades snap into the plastic plugs like the other stuff on these trucks, I should have the spades to work with them.

dyeager535 said:
The ones across the top are what I call "Auxillary" taps. The colors denote when they will be hot. Some are battery 12V, some are hot only in start/run, and there might be others. As I recall, all are protected via 30A small circuit breakers that fit in the fuse-like slots, and I don't see any of those circuit breakers on your panel. There should be two AFAIK, that's how mine is set up. Since they are on 30A breakers, obviously you'd need to fuse each component separately, and not exceed 30A total for each color tap. Looking at your picture, the top right fuse (15A) looks to have a "30A" printed above it, that might be one of the circuit breaker locations.

Just like the plug in the upper left of that picture, you can get the correct plugs from most GM products from the mid 80's to early 90's. They are keyed, which is obvious in the picture...there will be a little tab that sticks out a particular way. You can use spade terminals, but no thanks.

I don't have my wiring manual in front of me, but I'd just take a voltmeter to each row (a particular color is wired the same) to make sure I was using the proper terminal for what I planned on doing.

If you are thinking of adding a bunch of electrical components, it may make more sense to just use a later model underhood fuse center. Use a tap from the stock fuse panel to switch relay(s) as needed, which will power a block of wiring on the underhood fuse center. If you start adding a bunch of wiring to the panel in those slots, it gets hard to deal with, and becomes a real pain to disconnect a specific one when you need to. Additionally, dealing with a true fuse block is easier than a whole bunch of inline fuses scattered all over the place. I started out adding a bunch of wiring to the taps, and running an aftermarket fuse block, but a factory fuse block, with integral relays, is a cleaner option.
Click to expand...
Ideally I would prefer to use my own auxiliary fuse block like you mention. I just found a really neat setup from DelCity that I'd like to use: http://www.delcity.net/store/Sealed-Mini-Fuse-Panel-with-Bussed-Inputs/p_803797 I'm thinking I would tap power off one of those connections in the factory block to run a relay that feeds power to the fuse panel I linked.

I will probably wait to do that until I swap in the DIY4x aluminum dash from my K5. I wired that dash and accessories pretty much the same way with auxiliary fuse block, but not nearly as nice as the one from DelCity.

It doesn't surprise me that a fuse may be missing anything the previous owner (PO) touched is FUBAR, particularly electrical. You will notice the fuse for the instrument lights is mysteriously absent. I noticed a cut wire in the dash the other day that I'm pretty sure is for the instrument lights; it's light green. I'm afraid to put the fuse in because I'm thinking there is probably some stuff messed up in that circuit which I bet is why the fuse is absent.

Let me put it this way, there was a tach installed when I bought the truck. For some reason the PO decided to pull 12V power to the tack from the instrument lights. So it only worked if the headlights were on! :dunno:

byggyns said:
To answer your first question:

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/connector-terminal-kit-ato-fuse-box

I looks like that kit contains the plug style for each of the colors, and multiples of some.

Not sure about the rest of the questions. I was planning to use those spots to trigger relays, so they would not have large current draw.
Click to expand...
Those are neat, I might have to try some out. They sound like they might work for what I need. Thanks!
 
Looks like you could run a lot of stuff off that. I'd be afraid to put anything heavy use on ther though. The tach on mine I ran from the fuse block acc spot. Much easier than cutting the power to the lights and splicing it. My trucks po did a lot of rigging in mine. I still havnt fixed it all. I need a whole under dash Hanes to fix that as I've had to rig stuff to fix his rigging as I go just to keep it running. That and I got it when I was 19 and didn't really have a clue as to what I was doing. Lol. Stuff he did I'm surprised it didn't Mel the whole works or start a fire. So many extra wires and junk hooked in everywhere you can imagine.
 
If you have the $$, I don't see why what you linked wouldn't work. The only appeal to the factory stuff is that it's cheap out of the 'yards, and will have the relays integral. But keeping the factory ones water/weatherproof would be a challenge, and if the one you linked will do what you need and cost is fine for you, no reason not to go that route.
 
You know I didn't even think about this, but I could re-purpose the fuse block out of the K5... :thinking:

I missed your point about pulling the under hood panel from a new vehicle in your first post (just went back and re-read it :doah: ). That's a good idea also. Thanks!
 
chulisohombre said:
Looks like you could run a lot of stuff off that. I'd be afraid to put anything heavy use on ther though. The tach on mine I ran from the fuse block acc spot. Much easier than cutting the power to the lights and splicing it. My trucks po did a lot of rigging in mine. I still havnt fixed it all. I need a whole under dash Hanes to fix that as I've had to rig stuff to fix his rigging as I go just to keep it running. That and I got it when I was 19 and didn't really have a clue as to what I was doing. Lol. Stuff he did I'm surprised it didn't Mel the whole works or start a fire. So many extra wires and junk hooked in everywhere you can imagine.
Click to expand...
Acutally an electrical fire is one of my biggest fears with this truck right now. Hell I discovered a 1" length of wire lacking insulation on the main power feed to the starter. Found that out when an end wrench touched it. I couldn't figure out how it threw sparks at me when I wasn't near the solenoid. :mad:

And the PO's favoring method of joining wires was to strip 3/16" of the ends bare, twist them together, and cover with electrical tape. :rolleyes:
 
mrk5 said:
I missed your point about pulling the under hood panel from a new vehicle in your first post (just went back and re-read it :doah: ). That's a good idea also. Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are TONS of those relay/fuse centers out there, I just haven't run across any that were weatherproof. Weather-resistant, sure.

If your underhood sees a lot of mud and frequent water, I'd think any of the "open" centers would be a bad choice. Infrequent water doesn't hurt that type of setup, but eventually I'm sure water/mud would start to cause issues.

I've been running an underhood "open" fuse panel in mine for a year or so, have not had any issues related to it not being sealed, but I'm not fording deep water or getting it muddy frequently either.
 
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