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Questions about 14bolt sf

BadassBlaze

1/2 ton status
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I might have the chance to pick up a 6lug 14bolt sf out of an 88 4x4 Chevy this weekend, and was wondering if anything from my brakes on my 10bolt would swap over. I just spent some money on redoing the brakes and I'd hate to have wasted that money.
Will the drums pads cylinders anything swap over?
What about the brake lines and ujoints? Will the brake lines need something special? I assume I'll have to use a conversion ujoint of some kind but not sure which one.
Help me out!
 
you will need a conversion u-joint in the rear driveshaft and new spring perches welded onto the axle tube (the perch width is wider on the 88-98 body style trucks) . www.offroaddesign.com can supply you with an "all-in-one" kit to help swap a 14BSF or 14BFF under your truck. The kits come with a conversion u-joint,U-bolts and plates,spring perches and shock tabs.

as for your old 10-bolts brakes, I don't think they'll swap over but someone else will have to tell you for sure.

rear brakes aren't expensive and you can do them yourself.
 
well from what I read, all my brake stuff might swap over? and evidently you can swap the yokes from the 10bolt to the 14bolt and avoid having to buy a conversion ujoint. I wonder if I can use the drums from my 10bolt on the 14bolt sf. If I can then this would be a absolute win situation
 
well from what I read, all my brake stuff might swap over? and evidently you can swap the yokes from the 10bolt to the 14bolt and avoid having to buy a conversion ujoint. I wonder if I can use the drums from my 10bolt on the 14bolt sf. If I can then this would be a absolute win situation

just go ahead and get the axle. Sit them side by side. You can jack up the blazer and pull of the drums and compare them to the 14BSF drums.

as far as swapping yokes go, thats a new one to me. The 14BSF has a 9.5" ring gear, the 10-bolt has an 8.5". I don't know for sure,but I assumed that the pinion was larger in diameter in the 14BSF also.

I may be swapping a 6-lug 14BSF in place of my 10-bolt soon too, so I guess we'll both know for sure before long
 
From what I can tell by comparing part numbers, the only brake parts that could interchange are the brake shoes and hardware. The drums, wheel cylinders, and backing plates are different.
Somebody did put 10 bolt drums on his 14bsf, but he was converting an early model 8 lug into a 6 lug. The later model 14bsf got to have the "offset" brake drums.
 
The rubber brake line between the axle and the frame will work. I had to rework the steel lines after I moved the perches and shock mounts. I didn't try to use the steel lines off the 10 bolt as they were in poor condition. I'm hoping to hook my old E-brake cables into the 14 bolt brakes, but have not confirmed they will work. I did a SYE with a new driveshaft so I didn't have to use the conversion u joint.
 
If the e-brake cables are like the 12b then they should swap in, at least based on what I am seeing with my 14bsf and the 12b that is in there. I will know for sure as soon as I can get the new wheels, since I am doing an 8 lug.
 
As a matter of fact, there was a post from black widow performance I believe, that talked about rotors that are out there that will work, but the bolt pattern is really more important to the axle in this regard.

Don't know why it wouldn't be any different than other disk swaps, need brackets, calipers and rotors.
 
I haven't been able to find much out in regards to brackets.. at least ready made stuff, other than TSM for $340 with special rotors. Ideally I'd like to be able to use stock 3/4 ton front rotors..

Biggest tire I plan on running is a 37", and from what I read the 14bsf is more than strong enough, and I like my ground clearance. If it comes down to it, I've got a 14bff to swap in if that's more practical..
 
I believe the backing plate bolt pattern is the same as the 14FF, and the tube diameter definitely is.

No idea why 14FF brackets couldn't at least be modified to work.
 
I did the disc brake swap on a 14sf. I used the 14ff kit from gravel maker. I had some problems that were easy once i figured it out. The problems were mainly which studs to use (I used studs and rotors from a 3/4 ton front).
 
I'm assuming that bolted up, the spacing was perfect?

Mikey, that is exactly the info I was looking, thank you sir :D
 
So what I'm gathering from reading your past posts is..

Use front studs, rotors, and calipers. The rotor may need to be ground to fit flush with the axle shaft. The Ruff Stuff Bracket works good, and best off all it's cheap..

Got a part number for the brake lines you used?
 
I am trying to remember what exactly I used. I know I used front rotors, studs, calipers, and gravel makers brackets. I had to do very minimal grinding on the axle flange to get the rotors to fit correctly. In my case, the rotors went on the inside of the axle flange. I guess this is how fronts work also??? It does have the added benefit of holding the wheel on if the axle breaks.
 
Good info :D

I think the fronts have the rotors on the outside of the hub, but if they worked on the inside of the axle flange it sounds good. Looking at pics of 14bff discs the rotor is on the inside of the hub as well..

My dad asked what I would do if I lost my brakes without a mechanical parking brake.. I said the same thing I'm doing now.. I don't expect the cable operated parking brake to stop a moving 6000 pound truck, especially with the extra mass of the 35's on it..
 

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