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questions about the eaton rearend

M

muddyblzr

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hey ive been seeing alot of eaton rearends lately and didnt know anything about them. so far ive seen them in two ttc entries this year and the 1st gen suburban a few years back. what did they come out of? and how do they do strength wise?
thanks
austin
 
I remember them being about the same strength as the 14bff. I have one in my 1972 K20 longbed and I like the idea of the way you can remove the 3rd member and rebuild on the bench like a Toyota or a F%^# diff. Anyways, I think it's very similar to the 14BFF and some parts are supposed to be interchangeable. I'm sure there some disadvantage like the axle spline count or something.
 
alright thanks i see now i wasnt sure for awhile when i first saw it and didnt know what it was i thought it was a semi float. thats cool i bet there rare.
thanks for the input
 
damn I posted a long response for this thread and it didnt show up for some reason. anyway, I am going to run an eaton under my truck, and I know a little bit about them. they were used from 47-72...10-1/8" ring gear...1.7", 1.5" neckdown shafts...dropout third...etc. I plan on making mine an Eaton/14 bolt hybrid. any more ?s just ask, I dont want to type all that stuff again.
 
BTW, I would venture to say that the ground clearance is better with the eaton than the 14bff, but I never measured it.
 
Building an Eaton for the rear of my truck right now. Welded up the spiders and I'll run it until it breaks then I'll do a 14bff hybrid. Supposedly you can swap all the 14bff internals into it.

The removable third is a blessing. Makes it easy to work on. Just take it out and walk over to the bench to work on it.
 
47-72 and ratios were 4.10 4.57 and 5.14 for 20 and 30 series,
H052 for 5200lbs rated(C/K-20) and H072 for 7200lbs rated(C-30)
difference was brake size same deal as with 14 FF 20 to 30 models
problem with eatons burning up bearings and overheating, replace seals as soon as possible, bearings too if can find new ones
 
R72K5 said:
problem with eatons burning up bearings and overheating, replace seals as soon as possible, bearings too if can find new ones
Click to expand...

Keep the oil level where it should be, and there shouldn't be any problems with bearings. These old Eaton light-truck axles are basically a smaller version of what Eaton sells to this day for heavy trucks. Very sturdy design overall; the shafts aren't as strong as they could be, but overall it's a good axle.
 
ahh thats cool id consider one but i have to 14 bolts sitting in my shop so i might as well use what i have. does the eaton has a pop out 3rd and a diff cover? some pics i saw looked that way.
o by the way thanks to everyone for all the info its appreciated
 
I'm one of the TTC entries that is running an eaton hybred, i use the 14 bolt detroit locker and axles. Disc brakes for a 14 bolt will bolt right on to an eaton. And the housing is one piece so you don't have to worry about twisting a tube (I've done that). You gain around 2" of ground clearence with the eaton over the 14 bolt and it is easy to replace a third member even on the trail if you have a spare. The only draw back about the eaton is they only came in three ratios 4.10, 4.56 and 5.13's. And they are kind of hard to come by. But when you find one they are usually cheap if the person selling it doesn't know what they have.
 
Yep they have a removable third AND a removable diff cover. Take them both off and you can look right through them, kinda like this:
11193100_0282.jpg


:D :D :D
 
I have a couple of eatens, right now I have one in the 86 that has a detroit, the 75 currently has a welded 14 bolt, but I will be swappingthe locked eaton into it!


I love em, people always are wondering what the hell they are, and here in az they are easy to find, for about 100-150.00

sometimes less,

-shawn
 
I just paid $200 for a eaton 3rd member w/ 4.56 gears and no-spin, shipped from WA state! I plan on putting the no-spin in my 71. Also going to look at a complete eaton axle locally for $50! Only thing not said: the axles have 17 splines.
 
Here's what's missing:

000_0844.jpg


and

000_0843.jpg



At just over 110 lbs I'm not sure about the throwing around part, but it is easier to handle than a complete axle!

Rear cover:
000_0793.jpg
 
Hey Jim. It's Adam from the 67-72 board...

I think the Eatons are cheap everywhere, not just AZ. I got mine, with 4.57's and a No-Spin, for $100...only bad part is, its from a coil sprung 2wd, so I gotta weld new perches on. I also got a 5.14 open 3rd with 28k on it for $50. There is also one at the local JY (where I got my D60 for $150:D)...may have to check that out too.
 
JIMs70K25 said:
What's going on adam? I got my no-spin! I might get it installed this weekend also.
Click to expand...

Sweet! I wish it would stop snowing and being cold. Then I could start to work on mine.
 
Got my Eaton for about $65 at the local Pull-N-Save. I also found one with a No-Spin in it, but I couldn't get it out and had to leave it in the junkyard. :mad:

Mine came with 4.10's, which is fine for now because my D44HD is also 4.10, I'll definetly upgrade at some point, though.
 
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