I'd do all 3,the chain & both gears--the crank gear is pretty simple to pull off,if you lack a puller,I have used a sharp chisel to split it ,put the chisel right over the keyway slot--the cast metal breaks very easily,and it'll slide right off once its split...the new gear can be tapped on with a socket or peice of pipe,or heated in a pan of water till it'll slide on..getting the harmonic balancer off & on is probably the worst part of the job...maybe the timing cover install too--they can be difficult if you do it without pulling the oil pan down some,but most of the ones I did,I left the pan alone,and just grinded some of the lower "smile" gasket seal lips away on the cover so it can be installed easier,and I used a phillips screwdriver in the bolt holes on the cover and block to help pop it in--used RTV to seal it up good,never had any leaks there doing it that way...(sometimes the balancer has a groove worn it it so you may need a sleeve or risk a leak there though)..
I had 2 small blocks with timing chains so loose they wore a slot in the timing cover!--and more than a few that had no nylon teeth left on the cam gear,I found them all in the bottom of the oil pan,or lodged in the oil pump screen!

--I put new oil pumps & screen in when I see that--a new Melling stock oil pump cost me 12.99 at Autozone a few years ago when I did my 305 over ,the screen and metal drive shaft for it was another 15 bucks...
I had one small block that had noises coming from the timiing cover area--thought it was a loose chain,so I bought a Cloyes double roller timing kit at a swap meet for 15 bucks--but before I took it apart I decided to do some investigating with my friends stecthascope--turned out to be the fuel pump had a busted spring,that held tension on the push rod that operates it!..took the pump off and started it up for a minute,no noise!..replaced the pump.put the timing chain kit in the glove box--it was still there when I sold it 3 years later!..