AZDesertDog
Registered Member
Whats a good fast way to get power out of my 1984 chevy K5? Its got a carburated 350 in it. I'm thinking a new carb/intake combo to start with. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
CK5
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Quick engine power?
- Thread starter AZDesertDog
- Start date
Doc Feel Good
1/2 ton status
the 2 cheapest forms of power for the money is:
increase air/fuel flow
increase exhaust flow
then its about the internals/add ons
increase air/fuel flow
increase exhaust flow
then its about the internals/add ons
AZDesertDog
Registered Member
right o any suggestions? I'm thinking about getting a carb/intake combo but dont know what kind of combo I want. I do the occasional rock crawl but mostly hit trails and check out ghost towns and whatnot.
if it runs good, and I mean it doesn't burn oil or low on compression, a cam is the quickest, cheapest, biggest bang for the buck you can prolly do. More power gained over anything increase in air/fuel/or exhaust. Short of a turbo lol
Nitrous...ain't gonna get faster than that.
In all seriousness though, a stock 350 has many restrictive areas that inhibit the power. Craptastic heads, tame cam, restrictive exhaust, so-so intake. A better cam and intake are good, but much better when matched with some decent flowing heads. Add better exhaust and a great carb/intake and it'll finally make good power.
Rene
In all seriousness though, a stock 350 has many restrictive areas that inhibit the power. Craptastic heads, tame cam, restrictive exhaust, so-so intake. A better cam and intake are good, but much better when matched with some decent flowing heads. Add better exhaust and a great carb/intake and it'll finally make good power.
Rene
Save your money and do a LS swap. Don't waste your time with old-tech
shovelbill80
1/2 ton status
old adage:
horse power costs money, how fast do you want to go?
an engine is nothing more than an air pump.....more air(and fuel) in, more power out(with good exhaust). decent heads for flow and combustion, cam matched to head requirments and correct carb for package will make for a happy motor. use a proven setup and you'll be happy. be very honest on how you're going to use the motor. the cam will determine how the motor acts and where it makes it's power. the wrong cam choice will make you hate what you just built........for example, if you pick a long cam designed for "racing" you'll be very disappointed if you're looking for low end torque for a trail truck. horsepower in the wrong rpm range is worse than stock, imo. not to mention a waste of money. build what you NEED, not what your ego thinks(ask me how i know)........that's my $.02, Bill
horse power costs money, how fast do you want to go?
an engine is nothing more than an air pump.....more air(and fuel) in, more power out(with good exhaust). decent heads for flow and combustion, cam matched to head requirments and correct carb for package will make for a happy motor. use a proven setup and you'll be happy. be very honest on how you're going to use the motor. the cam will determine how the motor acts and where it makes it's power. the wrong cam choice will make you hate what you just built........for example, if you pick a long cam designed for "racing" you'll be very disappointed if you're looking for low end torque for a trail truck. horsepower in the wrong rpm range is worse than stock, imo. not to mention a waste of money. build what you NEED, not what your ego thinks(ask me how i know)........that's my $.02, Bill
ccarley
1/2 ton status
If you decide to go quick & easy, here would be my suggestion.
Edelbrock Performer intake: Don't go bigger than that, it's all you need.
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb: I like them. Others have their own opinions.
Shorty headers: Some sort of header will help. Makes a difference.
Hi flow cat & muffler: that will help too.
But, as has been mentioned, if you want real power, change the cam & heads. The cam is the heart of the engine & tells it how to run basically. It determines how smooth your idle is, where the power comes on, and how fat your powerband will be.
If you change the cam, going with a nice set of heads will be a real eye opener! I know it's expensive, but certainly worthwhile.
I recall that Edelbrock used to have Performer combos; that might be a nice kit you could get. I think the combo would come with the intake, cam, lifters, and maybe carb, although I'm not sure. Throw a set of Edelbrock heads in, and you'll feel it. Don't go crazy with a huge cam & huge intake; unless you are drag racing & need power from 3000 RPM to 7000 RPM...
Good luck,
Clay
PS: I've always felt the cheapest way to make power is the cam. Just a lot of work!
Edelbrock Performer intake: Don't go bigger than that, it's all you need.
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb: I like them. Others have their own opinions.
Shorty headers: Some sort of header will help. Makes a difference.
Hi flow cat & muffler: that will help too.
But, as has been mentioned, if you want real power, change the cam & heads. The cam is the heart of the engine & tells it how to run basically. It determines how smooth your idle is, where the power comes on, and how fat your powerband will be.
If you change the cam, going with a nice set of heads will be a real eye opener! I know it's expensive, but certainly worthwhile.
I recall that Edelbrock used to have Performer combos; that might be a nice kit you could get. I think the combo would come with the intake, cam, lifters, and maybe carb, although I'm not sure. Throw a set of Edelbrock heads in, and you'll feel it. Don't go crazy with a huge cam & huge intake; unless you are drag racing & need power from 3000 RPM to 7000 RPM...
Good luck,
Clay
PS: I've always felt the cheapest way to make power is the cam. Just a lot of work!
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
shed about 2000 pounds of sheetmetal...
shovelbill80
1/2 ton status
i don't have any experience with this cam but the timing events seem like they'd work for what you want....set it and forget.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-SK08-411-8/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-SK08-411-8/
First things first. Give it a tune up and make sure the secondary throttles open, the choke is coming off all the way, base timing is good, mechanical advance is not frozen etc. Make sure the intake flapper for the hear riser is opening. I like curve kits for the HEI. They make a noticeable change in mid-range torque for about $20.
After that add headers and a good exhaust system. I would not get rid of the Q-Jet unless it was to add fuel injection. Standard Edelbrocks and Holleys do not belong on trucks unless they are lowered and/or 2WD. If you don't already have the tall air cleaner, grab one of those (possibly deleting the flame arrestor). If you can, get a second snorkle to run one to each side of the core support. Then look into a cam. I wouldn't go any further than that (i.e. new heads) with an old 350 without looking seriously at an engine swap first.
After that add headers and a good exhaust system. I would not get rid of the Q-Jet unless it was to add fuel injection. Standard Edelbrocks and Holleys do not belong on trucks unless they are lowered and/or 2WD. If you don't already have the tall air cleaner, grab one of those (possibly deleting the flame arrestor). If you can, get a second snorkle to run one to each side of the core support. Then look into a cam. I wouldn't go any further than that (i.e. new heads) with an old 350 without looking seriously at an engine swap first.
Hydraulic roller?
AZDesertDog
Registered Member
Ok, so assuming I were made out of insane amounts of cash or was funded by some magazine, what would be a good swap in if i were to change the engine?
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Ls1 obviously. Or a zz4 if you want it carb'd. Thats what i put in mine.
Trade it in for a newer truck and start your power adders there. You will be ahead in the long run. Starting with newer technology can save a ton. The depreciation is huge on American cars. If I had to do it over again I would get a ford 3/4 ton or chevy 3/4 ton truck. As is I have a $6k truck that's worth $2k.
CGT80
1/2 ton status
The performer edelbrock stuff is great and is CA smog legal.
The 385 in my 79 pickup is tricked out with the intake, heads, valve covers, water pump, fuel pump, and carb from that line. the distributor is an msd hei, and the headers are thorley tri y. The bottom end was built well. It is estimated at 9.6:1 compression ratio, which according to a friend of mine that built and dynoed a number of race engines, is a big advantage to the stock 8.5:1 or the crappy previous rebuild that my engine builder said was probably less than 8.0:1. Go with the correct rings and hone job as well when doing a bottom end. My pistons are hyperutetic-good but nothing fancy or very expensive. I did choose to run roller tipped rockers but skipped full roller due to the height of those rockers. I am running the performer flat tappet cam which is a 204/214 at 50.
My truck is used for construction work and hauling my 9k pound toy hauler. I don't off road with it. I like the performer carb better than the Qjet for street use.
I upgraded my exhaust with headers and 3" flowmaster setup before the engine swap. It made a good difference.
To see big results plan on at least a whole top end and cam if your short block has good compression and is a high enough ratio. The Qjet won't make much difference in power if it is setup right. I got better mileage with the smaller performer but didn't loose any power. 600 cfm is enough for my engine (as far as I can tell) up to the 5k rpm or so that I will push it to. The low end torque is very nice from my combo, but it pulls best at 3,000 to 4,500 rpm.
The 385 in my 79 pickup is tricked out with the intake, heads, valve covers, water pump, fuel pump, and carb from that line. the distributor is an msd hei, and the headers are thorley tri y. The bottom end was built well. It is estimated at 9.6:1 compression ratio, which according to a friend of mine that built and dynoed a number of race engines, is a big advantage to the stock 8.5:1 or the crappy previous rebuild that my engine builder said was probably less than 8.0:1. Go with the correct rings and hone job as well when doing a bottom end. My pistons are hyperutetic-good but nothing fancy or very expensive. I did choose to run roller tipped rockers but skipped full roller due to the height of those rockers. I am running the performer flat tappet cam which is a 204/214 at 50.
My truck is used for construction work and hauling my 9k pound toy hauler. I don't off road with it. I like the performer carb better than the Qjet for street use.
I upgraded my exhaust with headers and 3" flowmaster setup before the engine swap. It made a good difference.
To see big results plan on at least a whole top end and cam if your short block has good compression and is a high enough ratio. The Qjet won't make much difference in power if it is setup right. I got better mileage with the smaller performer but didn't loose any power. 600 cfm is enough for my engine (as far as I can tell) up to the 5k rpm or so that I will push it to. The low end torque is very nice from my combo, but it pulls best at 3,000 to 4,500 rpm.
