quick header question

[tiger9297]

I did a search and see where a small number of people bought headers with the "ball and socket"???? thing instead of a regular flange. Is this better? I would think so but I only see a small number of people that have this so I'm wondering if it's that great.

I'm looking for some ceramic coated headers for my '90 K5 w/ 383 SBC. I only want to do this once so I don't mind spending a little more for quality headers. Any recommendations, part numbers, venders etc. is greatly appreciated. Plan on ordering Monday. Thanks.

 

[ryoken]

Hard to beat Thorleys.... Or his new company, Dougs Headers.. quality looking stuff... Doug's are a tad bit more money..

Imo sending a header or buying one direct from Jet Hot will get you THE best coating... But iirc, all the headers they stock, are full tube, 3 bolt flange style...

 

[dyeager535]

They are that much better, but they cost additional, and aren't part of a great many of the header sets I'm sure to keep cost down.

 

[ryoken]

Hey Dorian....

I know you and I have discussed headers many times in the past and iirc you where also a proponent on Jet Hot too.... What do you think of a set of Thorleys or Doug's in nickle chrome being stripped and sent to Jet Hot for their Sterling coating?

Looks like you can get some Thorley's for $350ish.. Wonder what Jet Hot runs for a sent in set... I'm thinking of no more than $200 judging by the prices of their "in stock" headers...

I too like the ball/socket design...

 

[dyeager535]

To me it seems like a waste to send in some coated headers just to have them stripped and re-coated.

Never spent much time looking at jet-hots offerings, but considering that I'm not a huge fan of the tri-y design (other header designs show better power, contrary to advertising) I'd see what jet-hot offers already coated. I'll go look around on their site and edit this post when I've learned some.

Judging from their selection, it doesn't appear that their in-stock choices are that great for trucks. Hedman, Hooker, Flow-tech, and that's it. Now if one of those companies makes a header that others on here like, it would probably be cheapest to buy that straight from Jet-Hot of course. I know the Hedman's I have others dislike as hanging too low, which is a valid concern for those that wheel hard. But I'm impressed with the fit/finish/construction of them otherwise.

Next time, I will have internal AND external coated headers.

 

[ryoken]

Only reason I brought it up is, the price seems to work out the same, ceramic vs ceramic wise..

lots of long tubes available at Jet Hot, Hooker, etc.... I've been torn between some coated Hookers from them and Thorleys.. I've leaned torwards the Thorleys cuz the single A.I.R is readily available thru them, and matching Y-pipe makes keeping single a little simpler..

Trying to keep the Jersey Sniffer Nazi's happy....

 

[dyeager535]

An option for emissions, if you were considering a header coating, would be (IMO) tojust get a set of uncoated headers, weld on whatever is needed for AIR, then send them out to Jet-Hot. With jet-hots limited offerings, might be hard to find the AIR setup you need already in stock.

 

[ryoken]

Yup, the 4 tube AIR is readily available, single not so...

I need to call them and see if they can do a single... Save some hassle and time over, doing em and sending em in...

 

[ryoken]

Now that I just sorta dragged this off topic..... Hopefully my header ramble here is helping Tiger out a little...

I just hunted around and saw what I think I want to run...

Hookers stainless long tubes... small primary, 16 gauge... Priced very reasonable I think for stainless.. I'll have our welder do some single stainless AIR bungs in the front tubes... He does SS bowrail stuff all the time...

 

[badmix]

I have heddman uncoated headers. They are what they are. lol. They didnt fit on the pass. side, it kept hitting the front suspension shackle, so the muff. shop "tweaked" the header (big ass pry bar). I painted it with some hi-temp paint that lasted about a day. lol. When and if I ever get a crate motor, ill opt for some better quality headers, but for now these work. they do what they need to.

 

[dyeager535]

Stainless would certainly be nice (especially if you can get bungs welded on that you need) but I still think the internal/external coating is the way to go. That's me of course.

To clarify, only the Hedman Elite's have the ball/socket design. (in the Hedman line) Mine too hit the passenger shackle, but it was a pretty easy remedy. This sort of issue is extremely common with headers, this is about the most minor problem you'll have though, and if it is, be happy lol.

But the distance they protrude under the frame is not so easily fixed, which is something to keep in mind depending on usage.

I'd be willing to bet that stainless headers will last longer than coated ones, the heat retention is the only thing I personally would compare to. The ones shown are the flat gasket style collectors which I dislike personally. You can add the ball/socket collectors, but IIRC they are at least $40 themselves, then to get them welded on, more $$.

I have a bit of theory on the flat gasket headers and leakage problems, and it's rooted in exhaust routing. GM did a SUPERB job of keeping the exhaust on these trucks firmly anchored the entire distance. Most of the time when people re-do the exhaust (after header install for instance) inferior components are used, such as that metal plumbers strapping. That allows a lot of flex in the exhaust system, which can not but hurt any joints in the system. I took pains to ensure that I left all factory mounting points intact when I installed my headers, which also allowed me to go buy the adapter pieces from Napa for only about $40 total!

 

[ryoken]

Good post.... Good point on the mounting.... I've only had one leak from a flat flange over a dozen vehicles probably.. Hope that means I've been solid in my exhaust hanging work....

I guess gasket material is another subject to be discussed.. iirc alot seem to like the coppers... Never ran them myself....

I'm thinking I may call Hooker and see if a SS formed collector could be done for those... A slip on joint would be best I think, especially changing metals from SS to the rest..

Personally, the low clearence issue doesn't bother me, it is a DD... Will always be 75% street.... And a tweak for a shackle is no big thang....

 

[dyeager535]

I have no under-frame clearance isues either, but they certainly do hang low compared to say, some shorties. I believe that is one thing the tri-y's have going for them is clearance, though not quite shorties. But in a DD, I'd take maximum power over clearance, and long tube headers are that.

One thing about the collectors being the ball/socket...with a coating, the ring used to bolt the ball/socket together is probably abrading all the time...both vibration, plus when bolting/unbolting. Haven't had any adverse affects from that (yet) but with no exhaust leaks, how often are you under the truck looking for rust there?

Maybe internally coated stainless headers would be best. Suppose thats not possible though?

 

[ryoken]

Maybe internally coated stainless headers would be best. Suppose thats not possible though?

I would think that would be an optimum setup... My thinking was the fact the whole header is stainless, would help tremendously on the inside, even tho it wouldn't be a polished surface....

I'd be curious to know if Jet Hot could do that, and at what cost.. Would be a pretty bulletproof setup I would think....

 

[cybrfire]

I haven't read all this thread so maybe somebody already mentioned it. I've had the best luck, wacking the 3 bolt flange off and welding on a reducer to mate to the exhaust tubing you will use. From there just clamp on your tubing. Very simple and effective.

As far as brand and fit, I have used just about every brand and price range. The best bang for the buck to date has been the cheapest ones for some reason. Just my experience. In fact the best fitting ones I have had were $10 at a swap meet. They appeared to be cyclones.

 

[Desert Rat]

Hard to beat Thorleys.... Or his new company, Dougs Headers.. quality looking stuff... Doug's are a tad bit more money.....

Went with Doug's Headers myself. Ceramic coated and high quality. Part number D/H-D-300Y-SP-C.

 

[Thunder]

To answer your question about th ball and socket type connections.
I like them I have a set on both my Blazer and Mustang. I have been running Edelbrock TES headers for many years on my 89 K5 with the stock ball and socket type donught gasket connection and never had a leak. I beat on my truck pretty hard.
My mustang has SS headers with the ball and socket never had a leak in them either. Sure beats crawling under and replacing burned out headder gaskets all the time

 

[tiger9297]

Went with Doug's Headers myself. Ceramic coated and high quality. Part number D/H-D-300Y-SP-C.

OK, so I've got these and the Edelbrock TES headers. Any others?

Also, my original TBI 350 has a sensor in the rear of the driver's side manifold. I'm guessing this is the oxygen sensor?? Will the headers have the hole to mount this sensor?

 

[dontoe]

I used Thorley's with header wrap...........almost two years and zero problems! Soft aluminum gaskets and 314SS flex has been trouble free as well!

 

[Desert Rat]

I think depending on the model, they do. Mine had the four air risers on top, some have a single riser. Download the catalog from here and check for your application: http://www.dougsheaders.com/