Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
While everything else is torn apart on this axle I'd like to check the oil seals. Can I pull the front diff (10b, 30sp) without having to do any complex gear setup to put it back together?
CK5
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Quick ?? on pulling front diff
- Thread starter Metalhead47
- Start date
Yep.
If it hasn't been rebuilt by anyone there will be on shim on each side of the carrier bearings (between the housing and the bearing). Make sure you don't get them mixed up and reinstall in the same spot they were in.
Make sure you re-torque the bearing cap bolts.
If it hasn't been rebuilt by anyone there will be on shim on each side of the carrier bearings (between the housing and the bearing). Make sure you don't get them mixed up and reinstall in the same spot they were in.
Make sure you re-torque the bearing cap bolts.
pauly383
Daddy383
A long pipe is your friend here if you replace them . Pop them out , and press them in with a long pipe small enough to fit ID of seal so you can do both sides after one is already in , and a hammer . A socket or something that fits the OD of seal can be used between seal and pipe .
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
Thanx for the info guys. If it's that simple I might as well just change em out anyway, parts are cheaper on the mainland
. Once the diff's pulled, are the seals right there or is there another bearing or something in the way?
. Once the diff's pulled, are the seals right there or is there another bearing or something in the way?
Once the carrier is out there is nothing in the way of the seals.
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
OK 'nuther couple questions for anyone who's been there:
#1. Got the bearing caps off (knew I'd find some non-metric bolts somewhere on this rig). Now, how do I pry the diff out without damaging it??
#2. Is it even possible to remove the front diff without disconnecting the tie rod? (Everything stock on truck)
#1. Got the bearing caps off (knew I'd find some non-metric bolts somewhere on this rig). Now, how do I pry the diff out without damaging it??
#2. Is it even possible to remove the front diff without disconnecting the tie rod? (Everything stock on truck)
I've never messed with gears in a front 10 bolt, but on most axles you can get the carrier out without removing the tie rod.
I usually use a pry bar to get the carrier out. Jamming a towel in between the ring and pinion and then turning the yoke with a wrench usually works too.
Did you mark which bearing cap goes on which side (or at least keep track of them and their orientation)?
I usually use a pry bar to get the carrier out. Jamming a towel in between the ring and pinion and then turning the yoke with a wrench usually works too.
Did you mark which bearing cap goes on which side (or at least keep track of them and their orientation)?
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
K i'll give that a try. I kept note of which when where but good idea, I'll mark them too.
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
Well that din't werk. My prybar is pretty puny but even beating on the end with a BFH wouldn't budge the carrier.
Put a rag in between the gears and turn the pinion yoke (you may want to mark the shims on each side in case everything falls out).
Metalhead47
1/2 ton status
I'll give that another try, I'm just nervous about putting too much force somewhere
edit--
Nope, no go there. I think I'm just gonna give up on this bit, turning into a whole lotta work just to check seals that aren't actually leaking. Given the condition of everything else in the front pumpkin the seals are probably good for a while yet. Maybe after another couple of years of actually USING the front diff, when seals actually need replacing the carrier won't be quite so welded to the housing.
edit--
Nope, no go there. I think I'm just gonna give up on this bit, turning into a whole lotta work just to check seals that aren't actually leaking. Given the condition of everything else in the front pumpkin the seals are probably good for a while yet. Maybe after another couple of years of actually USING the front diff, when seals actually need replacing the carrier won't be quite so welded to the housing.
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