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Quick Release Door Hinge Pins

oh and u can use ure old pins if u have a dremmel. u can grind the tab things off and pull the pins. thatway u have nice flatspot to drill too :D just did mine
 
i did it, it works great. had my pins coated at our shop with a baked on dry lube type coating. wont ever squeek. doors are still kind of a pain to get off with out a extra hand though. but thats no big deal.
 
hijack

will this mod work on all 4 doors on a :burb: ? Do the doors still function exactly like they used to as far as sealing, opening, closing? How much does each door weigh?
 
i assume it would work on a sub, dont see why not. my doors needed lineing up anyways so it gave me a good reason to get'um lined up. weight? not sure but doors do have a little weight to them.
 
Yep, this will work on a sub. The front doors on a sub are the same exact doors on a blazer or truck and the back doors are actually lighter, plus I did this to my burb a couple weeks ago and it works great.



78Suburban said:
will this mod work on all 4 doors on a :burb: ? Do the doors still function exactly like they used to as far as sealing, opening, closing? How much does each door weigh?
 
I did this last week on the wheeling rig and it's a far cry from "quick release". It's actually faster and easier to pull the 6 bolts on the door.
 
I didn't think so. I can actually pull the pins on all 4 of my doors in a matter of minutes.



CyberSniper said:
I did this last week on the wheeling rig and it's a far cry from "quick release". It's actually faster and easier to pull the 6 bolts on the door.
 
me too...keep a little grease on them and they slide right out...

Tip: leave about 1/8" gap under the head of the pin between the head and the henge...grab a flathead, lift the edge of the door some, and pry...slides rt out.
 
Mine aint right

I installed the quick release door hindges about a week ago and am dissapointed to say the least. i probly had to take both doors off atleast 2 or 3 times each. i switched the pins over so the mini hitch pin dangles from the bottom. it seems to be easier and having it from the top u cant get the suckers out!I agree its easier to unbolt the door then take the hindges out especially with 1 person. haven power locks and windows doesnt help much. im probly gonna replace the male and female connectors with some trailor hook up plugs of some sort, the ones on there now decide to unplug once and awhile so i gotta go threw each one and figure out wich ones unplugged so i can roll up my windows or lock my doors. I plan on making tube doors out of 1 1/2x 1/8th thick tube steel. what yall think?i seen the price on a few and theres outrageous!250 bucks for something i can use scrap metal in my shop on? By the way im only 17 but i manage my own welding shop at a place called Naturechem. i just built 8 sets of nerf bars to put on alot of the 4x4 f250 and damn them things look sweet.
 
how about sliders? :D


my doors come off fine and i do it by myself. i have door speakers and put on quick connecters. i have no probs.
 
Muddytazz said:
Yep, this will work on a sub. The front doors on a sub are the same exact doors on a blazer or truck and the back doors are actually lighter, plus I did this to my burb a couple weeks ago and it works great.


Did you use tube doors, or just pull them out?
 
smokkey1 said:
muddytazz, do you have any pictures with all 4 doors off of your sub...

No, I wasn't able to get pics of the burb with all 4 doors off, my camera's batteries were dying and I was only able to retreive like 9 or the 30 or so pics I took. Here is the pics of the front doors I put on
IMAG0001_001.sized.jpg
 

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