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quick starter installation question

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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I've read several threads and all have helped prepare me.
I do have one questions though.
How do I expose the starter gear so I can check clearance with the ring gear?
The gear is tucked inside the starter body:haha:(annoyed laughter) so when I bolt it up, of course the gears aren't meshing.

thanks a diaper load!!
 
K85 Octane said:
I've read several threads and all have helped prepare me.
I do have one questions though.
How do I expose the starter gear so I can check clearance with the ring gear?
The gear is tucked inside the starter body:haha:(annoyed laughter) so when I bolt it up, of course the gears aren't meshing.

thanks a diaper load!!
Click to expand...
Well on all my vehicles I was able to see the pinion once engaged, you will need to energize the relay without energizing the starter, that way the pinion is just where it will be without spinning.
If yours is hidden somehow you can put some gear marking and check it after use.
 
well, I'm worried about doing a "bolt and go" install.
I'm using my stock starter out of my 350. I'm running a 400 small block with thicker flexplate for the 400 swap. So my flexplate and block have changed since this starter has seen service.

How do I energize the relay? Currently, my electrical system is not ready so see power, it's almost done, but for now I'd like to get several things wrapped up, starter being one of them. How do I get the starter gear slide over?

Thanks again!!!!
 
K85 Octane said:
well, I'm worried about doing a "bolt and go" install.
I'm using my stock starter out of my 350. I'm running a 400 small block with thicker flexplate for the 400 swap. So my flexplate and block have changed since this starter has seen service.

How do I energize the relay? Currently, my electrical system is not ready so see power, it's almost done, but for now I'd like to get several things wrapped up, starter being one of them. How do I get the starter gear slide over?

Thanks again!!!!
Click to expand...

Since the starter is on the bench and not on the truck now, just try it.
You need a ground on the housing and hot on one of the relay posts, it should just click and move the pinion out without spinning it.
 
I only have the large stud and small "S" stud. I'll try the "S" stud and ground it at the mount surface. Thanks!
 
Leaving the large battery cable disconnected and energizing the "S" terminal will make the bendix gear come out without the starter spinning. Now you can check for proper clearance with a feeler gauge.
 
The easiest and best method for checking the starter drive gear mesh was one I read on the instructions that came with a rebuilt starter--yoy simply bolt up the starter,and use a 1/8" allen wrench as a gauge,you stick it between the outside edge of the flexplate teeth and the armature shaft of the starter,that the drive gear rides on--no need to measure with feeler gauges,or rig a way to get the gear to stick out (which can be done with a ling thin screwdriver ,thru an access hole in the bottom of the starter,BTW--but it will cause the starter to CRANK OVER if its hooked up to the battery,so beware!)..I have used the allen wrench method numerous times and it works great,just add or remove shims if the 1/8" clearance isn't correct...
 
Well that was cool. Just put 12v to the "S" terminal and it shot right out lol.

However, and I don't know if it was the gauge wire I used, but the wire started getting super hot and glowing red. What the heck was that all about?
2046.jpg
 
yikes... sorry about the difficulty. that does look like a smaller wire then the battery cable wire. how long did you have it juiced for?
 
I haven't read the thread, just looked at the pic..... that is a seriously cheesy piece of wire.... super low strandcount... probably stiff as nails....

and for the record.. I've installed thousands of chevy starters and never shimmed one.. and bench testing them out of the truck with a booster pack takes 3 seconds...
 
I too have NEVER shimmed a starter, only bench tested them. I just took the old one out of my stock 69's 350 block and slapped it into my new 90's block 383 and a big thick flywheel and it just meshed up beautiful.
 
it was just some wire I have with, one end has battery ends and the other is just bare. I use it for testing smaller stuff, but have never come across this reaction before. The wire in the truck has many strands and is larger. Having this happen make me wonder if it's larger enough eeeeekk.

I tested it for about 3 seconds, then got super hot and glowing red. Stupid wire, but I see the gear now. I may just throw it in and see how she does. Otherwise I need to take the aluminum dust cover back off to see the gear mesh.
 
K85 Octane said:
it was just some wire I have with, one end has battery ends and the other is just bare. I use it for testing smaller stuff, but have never come across this reaction before. The wire in the truck has many strands and is larger. Having this happen make me wonder if it's larger enough eeeeekk.

I tested it for about 3 seconds, then got super hot and glowing red. Stupid wire, but I see the gear now. I may just throw it in and see how she does. Otherwise I need to take the aluminum dust cover back off to see the gear mesh.
Click to expand...

I'm with you about doing this correctly and ensuring it is within spec. I have my starter of also and will measure it using the allen wrench trick. I looked at the flywheel and noticed wear on some sides of the teath. Also be sure to use a starter brace.
 
Well, this is a bunch more work than you probably want to go to, but you can remove the two screws on the front that hold the solenoid on, plus the one on the back that supplies power to the starter, and pull the solenoid off.

Then, you can pull the armature of the solenoid back and forth and it will cause the Bendix to slide in and out so you can check the mesh.

Of course, that means putting the starter on and off at least twice....
 
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