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Quick tire fitment question..

Redwookie

Redwookie

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Apr 5, 2007
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Charleston, SC by way of the PHX
Hey guys. I have a set of BFG mudders I got for almost free brand new! Great deal n all but they are 35"s. Anyways I have the usual 4" lift by spring in the front and blocks in the back. Problem is of course I'm getting some pretty nasty tire rub. What's gonna be my easiest/cheapest fix? I can't remember off hand but I think the fronts are rubbing worse. Is it both that rub usually or just the fronts? I was thinking that I'd cut and roll the fender in front of the front tire and to the rear of the rear tires. Then buy some of those zero rate springs(or what are they called again?) that move the tires out towards the bumpers a little bit. Is that my best option money wise guys? Whaddya think? I'm sure I can search this but if ya guys don't mind I'd rather just ask real quick. Thanks fellas!:D
 
A 1" zero rate and some longer shackels both available from DIY4x total cost shipped I bet would be under 100.00
 
well moving the axles forward/rear could cause you driveshaft & steering problems. I would go with a zero-rate all around, and if you have a nose down truck maybe some 2" longer shackles up front netting you 1" of lift. You could also run a 1" body lift (I ran a 4" susp and 2" body with my 35x14.5's).
 
Hey thanks. So actually as it sits the back side of my Blazer sags a bit. I hadn't thought about that but I might as well take care of that while I'm at it eh? So maybe the easiest then would be the zero rates with no off set then? Whadya think would take care of the rub and the droop? A set of 1" zero rates up front and maybe a 2" out back? I mean I'll take a measurement first to be sure on the rear end sag but do ya think that set up would generally work for the droop and rub? :)
 
I'm running 35" tires with a 6" spring up front with a D60 (adds about 3/4" more lift) and the front tires stuff into the rear side of the wheel opening with little effort, i have a 4" spring out back along with a 4" shackle flip and i've never rubbed tires out back.

I think your cheapest route is to just cut the fenders and add a zero rate out back to rid of the saggy butt.

A better choice would be to ditch the blocks out back and replace them with a 4" shackle flip (this gives you a much smoother ride quality but it also moves the axle forward 1") and then add a zero rate moving the axle back that 1" difference.
 
Specs on the tires and wheels? A wider wheel and one with less backspacing will cause you to rub more than a narrower wheel with stockish backspacing.
 
My wheels are Eagle 589's 16x8 with 3.75 backspacing. My tires are 35/12.50/16
 
Sorry, meant Redwookie.

That said, yours is about optimum for what we're discussing.
 
Ya know not sure about the backspacing on the wheels. I believe the wheels are the stock 15" aluminum wheel that came on the truck. The tires are the BFG KM2s which are 35x12.50s. And thanks for all the different ideas but seriously right now just looking for the cheapest/easiest way to stop the rub! I'm broke and jobless so can't spend a ton. Gotta love the economy these days......:(. So yeah how about the my zero rate idea? Is that viable? What IS the cheapest/easiest fix for the rub/sag?
 
The stock aluminum wheels were 15x7's if I remember right.

Zero rates would work well to help at the very least. That said, if you're sagging in the rear a set of 1" zero rates on all four corners would only lift your truck 1" and continue to have your rear sag down.
 
4X4HIGH said:
:deal:
Click to expand...
Well thanks guys. So I could give the zero rates a shot and maybe try the bit larger one out back. As far as cutting goes, would I be cutting more than the front side overhang from the front and the overhang behind the rear tires to stop the rub? Cuz I still have the stock wheel wells in the truck and ideally would like to keep a set in there. Eventually I could fashion an aftermarket set but for now I'm stuck with what I got b/c of cost? So I guess relly Im asking what all has gotta be trimmed? I think maybe for now, trying the zero rates might be best..
 
I haven't cut my front fenders "yet" but the rear is going to be the hardest since i also am going to keep my inner fenderwells and there isn't much that can be cut there, the front i'm going to cut just below where the inner fenderwell is (IIRC that's about 4" up from the bottom of the fender).
 
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