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R&R a th350- school me

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4x4orbust

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Reverse is starting to make some funny noises in my k-10. a bunch of shuddering, some squeeling, and an occasional bang. i figure it's on it's way out, or has already left!

so i found a rebuilt one for decent money, and was hoping on dropping it in myself. I have never replaced a tranny before, so i was hoping some of you guys could help me out with steps and/or tips to removing and replacing one.

as far as tools go, i have enough to do the job. I will be working either in my driveway or the garage depending how much room i would need (garage is a little tight).

so, how does one get the old one out and new one in? videos/ write-ups would help!!
 
lots of patience in the job is required.

vary clean area.

and few special tranny tools that most guys dont have or loan out or some HD springs can hurt you on removale/assemble.

otherwise not to bad.

transtar is god bang for the buck on master reman kit.
noyoyo shift kit good for all around and not kill the tranny case from severe bands in/out gear shifts.
lots of good brake cleaner that leaves NO residue behind for cleaning up the parts as it will be super dirty.

just a few points here. there is a lot more to them. but not bad if you love a project.
 
4x4orbust said:
Reverse is starting to make some funny noises in my k-10. a bunch of shuddering, some squeeling, and an occasional bang. i figure it's on it's way out, or has already left!

so i found a rebuilt one for decent money, and was hoping on dropping it in myself. I have never replaced a tranny before, so i was hoping some of you guys could help me out with steps and/or tips to removing and replacing one.

as far as tools go, i have enough to do the job. I will be working either in my driveway or the garage depending how much room i would need (garage is a little tight).

so, how does one get the old one out and new one in? videos/ write-ups would help!!
Click to expand...

To R and R is no big deal, a good level floor, a good jack and stands and a few tools is all you need. If you have a friend to help it will make things move quicker. Remove dust cover and remove the bolts from the torque converter to flex-plate, remove drive shafts, support trans front and back, remove transfer case with cross member (or drop transfer case, cross member and transmission at same time). Take your time and move things slowly, dont forget about you kickdown cable, vent hose, wiring to the trans and transfer.
 
84 k5 blazer said:
To R and R is no big deal, a good level floor, a good jack and stands and a few tools is all you need. If you have a friend to help it will make things move quicker. Remove dust cover and remove the bolts from the torque converter to flex-plate, remove drive shafts, support trans front and back, remove transfer case with cross member (or drop transfer case, cross member and transmission at same time). Take your time and move things slowly, dont forget about you kickdown cable, vent hose, wiring to the trans and transfer.
Click to expand...


Also be aware and dont let anyone fool you, unless you hit the gym quite a bit you are not bench pressing that trans out like say a muncie.

I would say the only thing not obvious to the eye that needs to be removed is the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Theyre accessible under the inspection cover. The rest is easy

Remove exhaust int he way
Remove shift linkage
Remove driveshafts
Remove tcase if you so desire to take it down in 2 pieces
Unbolt torque converter from flexplate
Support trans
Unbolt crossmember
Remove

O and dont forget the dip stick.
 
I always drain the fluid before I remove any automatic. Save clean up later, especially if the converter drains and the old trans sits around for a while. Or if you are removing it and it slips you don't have a huge mess from it leaking out of tail housing
 
Do not forget to undue thee kickdown cable. Did that on my blazer on 38s. didnt have a jsck tall enough so me and another buddy were just gonna drop it out strongman style. Lets just say it was really interesting when we had it hanging by the kickdown cable!
 
does the transfer case have to come out to R&R the tranny?

i have replaced the kickdown cable before, but never the dipstick, how does that connect to the tranny?

do you have to have a tranny jack to remove it, or will a simple floor jack work ok?
 
First are you sure the replacement trans is the correct one? It must be from the correct 4x4 application. There are two different tailshaft stick out lengths depending on which t-case is used.
 
It makes things easier to remove the transfer first then the trans, a floor jack will work, just make sure to keep it balanced. It will try to slide off of it also. What transfer do you have? The np208 is alot lighter that other ones. I would support the trans, remove the crossmember and transfer as one piece then the transmission.
 
it has an np208 in it currently. i wish i could fin a 205 to replace it, but the budget isn't there for the associated expenses.

the replacement trans had a 208 behind it before, so in theory it will bolt right in.
 
If your truck is stock height a motorcycle jack from harbor freight will work great. I used my BIL's to take mine out, it worked great.
The only place I had trouble was getting it off the jack once i had it down out of the truck.
I slid it off the jack and it went tail down dumping several gallons of ATF on the garage floor. Can you say red tsunami?
I have in the past used a floor jack, but it's always touch and go as far as balancing the tranny up high on that little jack pad.
Especially when you have to get all medieval about lining up the bolt holes.
 
Having a manual is nice just to remind you of stupid little things you might otherwise forget. Haynes, chiltons, or GM.

You can rent a tranny jack pretty cheap. Might be worth the 40 bucks or so to save smashed fingers and other stuff. I use an ATV jack for the tranny and T-case

Drain tranny fluid is wise, just take pan off and filter let drain for a long time, then bolt pan back on.

If you are a messy mechanic like me ziplock bags with labels for what the bolts are make us look organized and you don't lose things.

I tape the u-joint caps so they don't fall off after removal and know which end goes to axle and which goes to Tcase. Remember to chock tires so vehicle doesn't roll or set parking brake, although depending on where cables run you might need to disconnect the parking brake.

If they are worn this is a good time to replace mounts for the tranny/Tcase.

Before I start I like to wash the underside of the vehicle really well with a pressure washer or the car wash to get rid of dirt and stuff so it doesn't fall in your eyes.

I won't repeat all the info already given. It's not a terrible job just takes some time and its nice to have a strong friend around.

Make sure torque converter is all the way seated ie you can't stick your fingers between the converter and bottom of trans.
 
The easiest way is to use a real transmission jack and not a floor jack with an adapter. Most rental places have them or see if a friend can loan. Not only do these hold a transmission (and earlier, your T-case) securely, they also drop very low to the ground, which makes getting it out from under the vehicle much easier. When it's time to re-install, having those angle adjustment knobs is awesome for lining up the bolt holes.
 
started checking with friends to see who has a tranny jack, no-one yet. I will hopefully pick up the rebuilt tranny this or next weekend.

One guy i talked to mentioned i should support the motor while removing the th350, i am not disconnecting anything but the tranny from the motor, why would i need to support it?

how does the re-installation of the th350 go? reverse removal process? should i fill anything with ATF before i re-install it?
 
support it so that the distributor does not crack against the firewall, also the fan hitting the radiator or shroud. Just put some blocks or jack stand on the bottom of the oil pan.
 
once you take off the tranny the motor will want to tilt backwards smashing the dizzy cap into the firewall, so support under the oil pan.

Yep just reverse process for re-assembly, remember to make sure torque converter is completely seated, spin while pushing slightly and make sure you can't get fingers between converter and tranny.

Nope fill with ATF after install.
 
the tranny i was supposed to pick up fell through. listed as "recently rebuilt". yeah, in 2001 maybe. had more mud and crap caked on it than mine does, and leaked worse!!

so i found a couple more leads, one of them i am really interested in. Rebuilt th350, mated to a slip yoke np205 (my 208 is slip yoke as well). would the 205 accept my current driveshafts?

or should i stick with what i have and just replace the tranny?
 
same slip shaft yes.

drive shafts need work = i think so but cant say 100% never done that swap.


and last i checked few years ago local advanced or autozone was around 500 with full warrenty and conv included for a th350.
 
Doesn't the 205 require a short output shaft in the TH350 whereas the 208 would have a longer output shaft in the TH350?
 
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