What is the diameter of that fan blade? Which brand and part number did you select ?
CK5
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radiator fan question
- Thread starter ashman
- Start date
I don't think so, but I'll take a closer look at it to be sure.
Collapsing hose, check your radiator cap. A 15psi cooling system isn't going to suck a hose shut.
Turns out you were right. Some jackass cut a big hole in the bottom of the shroud.
I cut up a piece of metal and used a few self tappers to cover it for now.
While down there I noticed that the shroud wasn't closing the gap at the bottom of the radiator either.
Got that closed up too.
That should make a pretty big difference. At least I hope so. I'm kinda over messing with it.
Also check the front ( as in opposite side of the engine ) of the radiator surface for an accumulation of debris that can gather up over time - really verify with a light across the complete surface and also don’t forget between the condenser and radiator if so equipped.
This is one of the first things a good shop will check on an overheating complaint.
This is one of the first things a good shop will check on an overheating complaint.
Help any ?? Inquiring minds need to know
Eileen's car had that same hole in the shroud. Found a good used one for $10 at a swap meet.
thinking lazy techs make that hole to turn the crank shaft with a socket
Haven't had a chance to test it yet. I'll let you know.
Unfortunately, because it's a vette, you can't really do that without pulling the radiator all the way out. Trying to avoid that for now.
Back when I was turning wrenches for a living I never really enjoyed work’n on the 68~82 Vettes - seemed like nothing was easy to get to, but driving them sure was a great joy.
Regardless though if all the temp issue possibilities are to be eliminated that area must be looked at - it’s kind of like an open element air filter; they catch what is in the air as the air is drawn through and over time it must be delt with.
not sure but it might easy to at least get a peek at the front and between the condenser and rad from underneath. That black plastic shield looks like it unbolts
Well, I don't know if the issue is "solved", but it's a helluva lot better. I drove it around a bit and never got hot, so I left it idling on the hot side of the house. After about 15 min, temp got to 217.
I do t know if it would have kept going higher, but it used to get over 220 just sitting at a traffic light.
I'm calling it a win for now.
Great news. Air flow management for the win
Just an update. Still hasn't boiled over again, but it does get warmer than I'd like. Talked to a vette guy at a car show and he pointed out that there were big gaps along the top and sides of the shroud as well. I got some of that pool noodle type pipe insulation and stuffed that along the top of the radiator and that helped some too. brought it down another couple degrees I think.
Glad you’re making progress but since you still aren’t totally out of the woods yet I would suggest still verifying that there is nothing blocking the radiators air flow - a lot of effort to go through but just might be where your problem lies.
Think about it this way - it would somewhat be like trying to breathe with your hand loosely over your mouth while you’re out of breath; just can’t get enough flow when needed the most.
I don’t know what year model heads are on your motor but those OEM castings after 1974 certainly don’t like running too warm. Sitt’n still for too long in the heat of summer is a bad time to find out things are worse than hoped for.
Just something to consider.
And what condition is the radiator and pump? I don't recall that being mentioned.
Pumps rarely "go bad" internally, but I have seen fins rot off, so there can obviously be varying degrees of pump effectiveness if that is happening.
Unless the radiator looks brand new inside, I doubt I'd trust it to be as effective as is possible. If you are getting to the point things like closing up air gaps are solving the problem, then things like radiator and pump efficiency could certainly also help.
To what degree is unfortunately impossible to ascertain. I suppose measuring inlet and outlet temps of the radiator will give you a decent idea of how much work it's doing.
Pumps rarely "go bad" internally, but I have seen fins rot off, so there can obviously be varying degrees of pump effectiveness if that is happening.
Unless the radiator looks brand new inside, I doubt I'd trust it to be as effective as is possible. If you are getting to the point things like closing up air gaps are solving the problem, then things like radiator and pump efficiency could certainly also help.
To what degree is unfortunately impossible to ascertain. I suppose measuring inlet and outlet temps of the radiator will give you a decent idea of how much work it's doing.
At this point, it's more a matter of effort, vs return. Closing air gaps is easy and cheap, pulling the radiator and pump is neither.
All of these suggestions are good ones, but as it is right now, it doesn't overheat, just gets warmer than I'd like. That's good enough for now.
All of these suggestions are good ones, but as it is right now, it doesn't overheat, just gets warmer than I'd like. That's good enough for now.
Maybe find someone with a borescope type camera and peek through the gaps at your radiator and condenser? might be a cheap/easy way to get some peace of mind, or find out if it's really worth digging in there
