Radiator needs replacement - Need advice...

[Big Blzn]

Fellas
Just got back from a wheeling trip and realized i have a hole in the stock K5 radiator. It never did overheat on the trail and haven't really notice any excessive heat at anytime. Seems like the hottest it has ever gotten was about 195* on a long steep hill in 4lo. I am looking to get better than stock replacement but not to spend $400-$600 on a fancy one either. Currently I believe (without looking closer) a stock radiator with tranny cooler capability that is being used as an engine oil coller and I am running an external/seperate tranny cooler.

Is it better to get and try to modify the mounts of an OEM radiator for a mid 80's K30 with 454 or go with a higher end aluminum 2 row that is the Summitt brand with the tranny cooler. I'd love a Be Cool or Flexilite but too much $$$.

This is sorta what I'm looking at getting. What do you think?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380457/?image=large

 

[ryoken]

I'm very pleased with the Summit alum's... good quality, at a very good price imo... iirc, Northern was making em for Summit..I run the universal version of the same rad.... ...

 

[Big Blzn]

Thanks Paul. Does yours fit nicely into the stock mounting locations?

BTW, people, the leak was caused by me using them damn plastic push pin deals that you use to support the tranny cooler or other accessory coolers to the main radiator. After about 40 miles of rought trails and 50 miles of washboard dirt roads the bouncing of the cooler ties seemed to slowly wear a hole on the main radiator.

 

[blazinzuk]

They will do that.

I have also heard good things about the summit alum radiators

 

[496truck]

If you were happy with the original rad (copper/brass?) than why change it? Get it brazed or recored at a rad repair shop and be done with it. Just mount your aux cooler to some actual mounts and not to the rad again.

 

[Big Blzn]

If you were happy with the original rad (copper/brass?) than why change it? Get it brazed or recored at a rad repair shop and be done with it. Just mount your aux cooler to some actual mounts and not to the rad again.

I thought about it but after looking over the rest of the radiator there are some bad spots that on the fins that look like some corrosivefluid od sorts got onto them and really almost "melted? the thin copper/metal fins. Doesn't leak there but just time to replace and hopefully prevent anyother future problems.

 

[bp71k5]

Hoby,

I've been using a stock 4-core I got new from radiators.com. The 4-core cools way better than my old 2-core.

I think they even have a bunch of dealers that you can save money with by picking it up instead of having it delivered. Mine wasn't more than $200 a few years ago. I got a new one after mine kept overheating on a small hill in Moab.

 

[miniwally]

Call Griffin Radiator, Talk to Tom or Steve Beebe. Tell them you are talking with them because they support our sport.

They have the ability to set you up with exactly what you need.

 

[Big Blzn]

Hoby,

I've been using a stock 4-core I got new from radiators.com. The 4-core cools way better than my old 2-core.

I think they even have a bunch of dealers that you can save money with by picking it up instead of having it delivered. Mine wasn't more than $200 a few years ago. I got a new one after mine kept overheating on a small hill in Moab.

I called them yesterday and spoke with some guy on the phone who was somewhat helpful but spoke like a total jackass. He was giving me the "Bro" and "dude" treatment. he said something about the 4 core/row deal. I'll check on the pricing again.

Call Griffin Radiator, Talk to Tom or Steve Beebe. Tell them you are talking with them because they support our sport.

They have the ability to set you up with exactly what you need.

Thanks MW, I'll call them too. Had a PM from a member here saying that he heard the aluminums are great but don't take to the heavy bouncing and vibrations that 4wds have to deal with don't handle as well as the OEM type. I could see that them being lighter weight and all maybe means they are less stout.

 

[Big Blzn]

ALSO
Can someone school me on the wording prople use when talking about 2 row, 4 core, etc. What are the differences. What's a core and a row or are people using just different nomenclature for the same thing?

 

[bp71k5]

The proper terms are probably the opposite of whatever I said.

4 row has more cooling capacity than 2 row and is also thicker.

 

[nvrenuf]

ALSO
Can someone school me on the wording prople use when talking about 2 row, 4 core, etc. What are the differences. What's a core and a row or are people using just different nomenclature for the same thing?

*technically* the "core" is the center, main body of the radiator. That said, when most people say "4 core" etc they are referring to the number of passages from side to side. Each passage is actually called a "flue". Think of it as a building that's 2, 3 or 4 rooms wide, each row of rooms represents a flue.

That said OE type vs aftermarket aluminum can be confusing. The OE type will use multiple small flues whereas an aftermarket (like the Griffin) will use a smaller quantity of larger flues. A 2 flue aluminum can cool as good or better than a 4 flue OE type, same technology just different design.

 

[Big Blzn]

Great info nvrenuf, thanks. I figured it was something along these lines.

 

[miniwally]

I ran an aluminium rad in the buggy for 6 years with no issues. The only reason for me switching it up now is that I have a few hundred more horsepower to cool and needed something BIG.

Griffin is custom making me a 19"X36" Dual 1.25" Core, dual pass with twin 16" dia spal fans on it. I think that should keep things cool even in the desert heat

There are no durability problems with an aluminum rad. vs other types as long as they are mounted securely

 

[Blue85]

Why do you need a "better than stock" radiator? A lot of people do it and say "cools great", but it's not fair to compare two designs when one is new and the other is decades old. Any new radiator will probably work better than the old one did. I looked into radiator repairs before and found it made more sense to get a brand new stock-type unit. They really are inexpensive these days and no fab work required.

 

[Big Blzn]

Blue and the rest of you are probably right about staying stock. What I have found so far is that the new OEM 4 and 3 row brass & copper radiators a running about $300-$400 while the new aftermarket aluminum radiators with 2-3 rows are about the same or even a little less $$$ wise. As I said, I don't seem to have any heating issues but just want to get the most bang for my buck.

 

[4xcrazy]

wow, just curious where you are pricing new stock radiators at to get a $300-400 price tag?

Heck i picked up a 4 row heavy duty cooling unit for my burb for around $200 if i remember correctly. and it's all metal, no plastic.

I only went with the larger unit because i live in Phoenix and like having extra cooling ability, especially with running AC and whatnot.

I'll make another call here and see what they are going for again, hopefully they didn't raise the prices... and i'll get back with ya

 

[4xcrazy]

I just called Hawkes Radiator, local place here, they deal through that 1-800-radiator too, but they just quoted me a price of $259 for an all metal unit, and this was for a 4-row heavy duty cooling one too...

they said they are not making them with the heater return anymore though, no biggie, that goes to the water pump then.

i am also assuming this was for the K5 you have listed in your sig, the '72 ?

 

[Big Blzn]

wow, just curious where you are pricing new stock radiators at to get a $300-400 price tag?

Heck i picked up a 4 row heavy duty cooling unit for my burb for just under $200 if i remember correctly. and it's all metal, no plastic.

I only went with the larger unit because i live in Phoenix and like having extra cooling ability, especially with running AC and whatnot.

I'll make another call here and see what they are going for again, hopefully they didn't raise the prices... and i'll get back with ya

I checked radiator.com, what a dipchit the guy on the phone was, and he was at about $399 or so for a stock replacement 4 row copper/brass. In the Classic Industries catalogue, warehouse 10 miles from my house to will call, their 3 row stock replacement copper/brass was $379. There may be less expensive OEM's out there but will they be 2-3-4 row, I haven't looked that closely yet? Any other place you can recommend please post up. I did see on evilbay last night a aluminum 3 row fully tig welded that was from a local shop in Riverside, CA that was going about $259 and a 2 row alum for about $189. Both were correct diminsions for my '72 K5.

 

[4xcrazy]

well, don't call 1-800-radiator direct, call a local shop that deals through them, that's what i just did, they have always treated me right, and have a lifetime warranty on them too. I have taken back a few so far, that's how long i have been dealing with this local company at least.