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Radiator Overflow Tank Options

ugh. i need a new one- top of mine disintegrated. I had a spare, but after installing it i found it had a split on a molding line... now need to purchase one, and have been hesitant to buy in plastic.

i like the price of the aluminum one above, but not sure all the plastic parts and john guest fittings for the site glass are needed... maybe i can find something simple and cheap?

-maybe not 20 oz. mountain dew cheap though.
 
ugh. i need a new one- top of mine disintegrated. I had a spare, but after installing it i found it had a split on a molding line... now need to purchase one, and have been hesitant to buy in plastic.

i like the price of the aluminum one above, but not sure all the plastic parts and john guest fittings for the site glass are needed... maybe i can find something simple and cheap?

-maybe not 20 oz. mountain dew cheap though.

My set up ended up costing way more than I intended, the tank was about $45 but the odd metric fittings were another $45 so I'm $90 and still need some hone and 1 more fitting. I'm happy with it, I just didn't anticipate it doubling in cost. The site glass assembly came on it and it had some fittings with it but they weren't anything I needed.

@obijuank5 GMT400 tank seems like the best bang for the buck if the plastic holds up better than a square body tank, if I hadn't already bought my stuff I'd have probably gone that route.

While I spent too much I did achieve my goal which was to remove everything from both fender liners so I can pull them for work without taking anything else off.
 
It's made by dorman. I am not holding my breath. I couldn't find a new gm one at the time.
 
So it’s not recommended to run without a puke tank at all. Don’t matter if you have a high quality radiator or a parts store special.

Here’s why. With the radiator full cold as the system heats up the coolant expands meaning you end up having more. The cooling system capacity does not change so the extra coolant has to go somewhere. That excess coolant pushes through a valve in the cap and allows it to push into the puke tank. When the system cools after shutting off the coolant contracts and creates a slight vacuum in the system and pulls the excess coolant out of the jug.

If you run without a puke tank you’ll have that excess coolant going onto the ground. Done enough the system will get low enough the expansion occurs within the radiator and nothing pushes out the hose at all. But if you checked the system cold you’ll find the coolant level is low in the radiator.

Some kind of puke tank is definitely better than nothing at all.
So this is why I have to top my coolant off with no leaks...
 
Dude. Put something on there. Wire tie in a Gatorade or jack Daniel's bottle or something. Hell I got a generic Dorman jug off of Amazon for under $15.
Yeah I will have to, I never thought it was much of a issue until reading your post. It just has a hose attached running down .
 
Yeah I will have to, I never thought it was much of a issue until reading your post. It just has a hose attached running down .
It’s overlooked often and usually misunderstood. I lost count how many times I had to explain it to rv customers.
 
I ran my Chevelle and still run an E200 with no recovery tank, have to top off, Ideally there should be a level at which there is room to expand w/o puking, on a system designed for no recovery. Needs a special cap too.
Only one time did I have an issue with the Chevelle, hard high speed run from State line Nevada to LA, somewhere in the Victorville area it overheated and puked 1/2gl or more at a stop for gas. I converted it to recovery after that.

Van still has no tank, normal driving check it 1 time a month maybe a pint to add.
 
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