Radiator question

[dirtynails]

My new copper/brass radiator will have a pipe for a heater return hose. I want to close off that pipe. What is the best most reliable way to do this? In the past, I have tried the basic rubber plugs and they crack after only about a year. I have seen expansion pugs for sale, are they any better or do I need to have the pipe removed and have a piece of brass brazed on there as a patch?

 

[abig84]

what about just bypassing the heatercore and just running the hose directly to the manifold. or is it in the way?

 

[dirtynails]

my application doesn't require the return hose going to the radiator. I'm just wanting to plug the pipe on the radiator.

 

[Mike D]

Use a 3" piece of new heater hose and a 5/8 or 3/4 diameter one inch (long) bolt. Clamp the hose to the radiator and clamp the hose to the bolt. It should last until you need a new radiator. Problem solved.

 

[dyeager535]

How about pinching it shut, folding it over, and soldering it?

Only thing I can think of other than the rubber hose/bolt. Just don't like using rubber hose if I can get away from it, even though it will likely last longer than the radiator.

 

[wasted wages]

go to home depot and look in the area where they sell stuff like casters,,furniture slides etc. you will see a bunch of different size
rubber caps ( kinda look like the rubber tip on a crutch )

http://www.wefcorubber.com/other_molded_crutch.asp

They are pretty thick and come in 5/8,,3/4,,7/8

slip one on with a hose clamp and your done.

I put one of these on radiator 4 years ago and it still looks good.

 

[dirtynails]

alright here's what I figure, any of the above solutions could be done but the best answer I got was from some facman friends I have at work here. You take a brass or copper cap the right size and and braze, not solder, braze the cap on. There even willing to do it for me. Nice folks!

 

[Fordum]

Be VERY careful. That nice new radiator is put together with soft solder. It melts WAY below brazing temp. Make sure that you have something between the core and tanks and where you are brazing to absorb the heat. Lots of wet towels maybe. Watched a fellow solder up a small hole in the tank on a top tank radiator one time with a propane torch. Got the hole soldered up fine. But there was nice shiny solder dripping out from under the edge of the tank when he got through. Leaked all along the seam when he refilled it.
Would have been ok, if he had taken it to a radiator shop then, but he tried to resolder the tank......
Radiator shop could not even put all the pieces back to together.
If it is long enough, sand the inside and out side of the end. Carefully crimp it almost shut. Swipe a thin coating of flux inside and finish crimping. Put lots of wet towels around the tank and between the tube end and the tank. Heat about 1/8 inch back from the end with a propane torch, and then swipe the edge one time with a thin stick of 50/50 solder. If you have it hot enough, it will melt and suck right in. Wait about 5 seconds, and then pour water on the seam.


J.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Dorman makes a cap for doing that but looks like you already knew this and must have had bad luck with them. I've used them with good results. If you don't want to go this route then take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them braze a copper cap on the fitting or hit the hardware store and buy a cap and do it yourself.

 

[dirtynails]

I took it to my radiator shop and they are removing the pipe, if possible, and putting a flat patch over the hole. Otherwise they will put a cap over the pipe. I found a 3/4 in brass plug at home depot. I think they do a "silver brazing" thing. I decided not to screw it up by brazing myself. The dorman rubber caps have only lasted about a year for me. Maybe it's a climate thing. I do some nasty hot driving in the summer Utah desert and some slow uphill trails in the high Colorado Mountains. The sun is intense here. That would be my guess.