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Radio short?

fryed_1

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Ok I was install a new stereo, or installing a stereo period because it hasn't had one since I got the thing...

Got the wiring harness all wired up, tested it out and it worked. Unplugged it from the stereo, turned power off and installed it into the dash.


Now it's funny...

1) Radio won't power at all. I know it works because I both checked the voltage on the power and acc lines and nothing. Ground is good. Radio powers up when connected directly to the battery.


2) Turn signals are screwy. When they are off, the relay is dink-dink-dink-dink going and going but no signals are flashing. Push the hazards in and they work. Turn the turn signal on with the stalk on the column and the relay goes off and turn signal stays on solid. Turn it back to middle position (signals off) and the relay starts clicking again and no signals actually flash.


Ideas?

No fuses for either the signal or radio is blown.
 
You wire the radio power wire to the correct switched source?

As for the turn signals, check the turn signal flasher unit, the turn signal and emergency flashers have different flasher units.
 
Yeah it was working fine out of the dash when I tested it.

Alpine CD/XM radio, red-red (fused), yellow-yellow (fused) and ground-ground. All inline fuses are good.

2x RCA outs to an Alpine 50x4 amp that powers front and rear speakers, with a separate remote lead. Power for that is a fused line running to the battery. Grounded to the frame. Remote lead runs with the RCA cables to the blue wire (acc) on the back of the head unit. Speakers run back up behind the dash and connect to the original wiring harness.

Accessories work, wipers, blower, etc.. Turn signals come on but just stay on line one is out, but parking lamps in the front, front and rear signals are all on so I know it's not a bulb.

I did notice when pulling all of the fuses that the "horn DM" fuse was blown, so put a new 25A fuse in it and the horn works again, but everything else is still the same.
 
Muddytazz said:
As for the turn signals, check the turn signal flasher unit, the turn signal and emergency flashers have different flasher units.

Is there another somewhere aside from the fusebox? I only see one on the lower-right of the fuse panel. Round plug-in looking thing. I can hear it click when the hazards go on, but not the turn signals.


I did just rebuild the steering column, but if any of the wiress were loose or disconnected in there, in regards to the turn signals, it would be the same as if a bulb was out and would not come on at all right?
 
On my 88 K5 Silverado, there is a flasher unit just to the right of the brake pedal.
 
This right? Are those two separate flashers then? When I turn the hazards on I can feel the round relay clicking, but nothing when I turn on the turn signals.

DSC02463.jpg
 
So the square-shaped one would be for the signals and the round for the flashers then?


My Haynes schematic really doesn't go into as much detail about all that.
 
I'm still curious as to why the signals (or flasher) and radio would have all been zapped at once...
 
That square one is a relay for something. The flasher units are round and will only be 2 in teh rig....1 in the fuse panel and the other one between the brake and gas pedal.

As for the zapping at once, recheck all your connections that you made, maybe after you tested the unit and INSTALLED the unit IN the dash, you arc'ed something and didn't know it :dunno:
 
Ok I'll try the one in the fuse panel then. They are swappable right? I can unhook the radio connections at least, to avoid another short, swap the relays and see if that fixes it.
 
answered my own question... blinkers work again. Still no radio, but I have some fairly heavy guage power wire from an old car of mine I can use to wire right to the battery then pull an accessory lead right from the fusebox.
 
Cool on the flashers bit.

On the stereo part, where did you plug the power wire into on the fuse panel?
 
I haven't yet. It was hooked up to the factory harness before using the wiring schematic out of my haynes manual. I only hooked up the acc, power and ground leads to the stock harness. The rest was all hooked into the little 100watt amp, then the speaker leads for it run back into the dash and hooked into the factory wiring harness from there. Did it that way so in case I ever got rid of the truck someone could plug a factory radio back in without any re-wiring (Not that I'd ever get rid of it anyways! Spent 10yrs wanting one and finally have one I'll be buried in this one ;) )
 
When I installed my aftermarket stereo, I didn't cut any of the factory harness either, but I also didn't splice into it. I ran separate wires to the fuse panel for pwr and acc to the proper spots and a separate grd to the body.
 
That's what I ended up doing. I got a distribution block for under the hood, bolted it down and ran the power for the stereo and amp from it.

Then ran the accessory to behind the existing radio fuse so I could keep that fuse inline as well. Double fuses but oh well, can't hurt anything. Ran the ground down to a spot on the firewall. No engine noise so ground seems solid and noise free.

Thanks for the help.
 
I was just gonna say... I always bypass the factory harness (they tend to be noisey) and just run a new power and acc wire from the fuse panel, and a chasis ground to the closest location. No hassles with harness plugs, no noise issues, no tracing wires through looms when/if something goes wrong.

Glad you got it working.
 

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