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Raptor Liner

Kyle1983

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I know people are having mixed opinions and results. But instead of debating it, I am looking for someone that has done a full bed liner spray or roll on of the interior floor and sides from tailgate to firewall.

I am going to raptor line pretty much everything I can on the interior.


As I understand. The process works like this. Remove all seats, remove anything holding the carpeting in place. Remove the carpet. Remove carpet padding. Remove any adhesive on the metal floor

Then...


1. Wash everything with soap and water that will be lined
2. Degrease it all. Every spot.
3. Then Sand it with 80 grit paper by hand or machine, making sure not to miss any surface.
4. Apply rust converter liquid/spray to convert the rust anywhere you have any signs of rust.
5. Remove the dust from grinding with a wet rag. Degrease it again.
6. Put bolts in holes that can't be plugged with liner. Only start them, a couple spins.

Start to line everything with a spray gun or paint brush.

Do all the coats you want and when it's finished drying/curing, rebolt in the seats and your done.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks!
 
Prep is everything, just like painting. Degrease, wash with a good wax removing AUTOMOTIVE wash. Sand, treat rust go over it again with tack clothes, then spray.
 
I did the entire interior with raptor. I would suggest at least 3 coats. I did two and when putting the cage back in it scraped pretty good. I used 5 cans of it since I sprayed it on. I prepped to bare metal then self etch on top the bare metal

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Last edited:
Thanks for all the responses

I have removed everything from my blazer.
I purchased these products.

Hamron Dirt Remover. Alkaline degreaser.
Autosol Rust Ex to remove rust
Glass Fiber filler for all the holes
CRC 5-56 to protect against further rust
I have a orbital sanding machine with 180 grit
A sander to remove some deep rust on the tailgate.

1. My plan is to use the alkaline degreaser several times. Then rinse out the vehicle.

2. Use the Rust EX on surface rust and rust in holes where bolts used to be. Use a brush if necessary.

3. Clean away the rust and rust remover with alkaline degreaser.

4. Spray CRC 5-56 inside the holes to prevent anymore rust spreading.

5. Use the glass fiber body filler with net to properly patch any holes.

5. Sand down the vehicle firewall to tailgate.
6. Vacuum and wipe down the interior.
7. Tape off everything
8. Raptor line


Questions:
1. IS my plan good?
2. Does raptor liner dry inside the spray paint pistol while waiting to apply another layer
3. I have these tar body pads to stop and protect rust. I can't remove them and what should I do.





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I only had small sections but a heat gun and putty knife worked for me. I also tried some aerosol stripper but it didn’t seem to do much.
 
I only had small sections but a heat gun and putty knife worked for me. I also tried some aerosol stripper but it didn’t seem to do much.

To be honest I will probably Raptor line over the tar pads. The vehicle is undecorated so the holes are sealed from top and below. I am not going to weld in large sections of sheet metal. Not really prepared financially for that. And I don't have a dedicated shop to work in. Only have a place for 1 day to get the vehicle lined.
 
Yah those suck to remove. Puddy knife and heat gun to get most of it off, then I hit it with rolock strip disk.

I would suggest a wax and grease remover as paint prep. Any auto paint store should have it. I like the PPG wax and grease.
 
So today I used 3 bottles of dewaxing chemicals. I skipped the raptor liner. I will do a proper restoration.

I am buying a heat gun and a mini angle grinder with discs that remove paint and rust but don't remove the sheet metal of the bed.

Any suggestions on a heat gun or angle grinder?
 
I bought a harbor freight heat gun and it worked great, still does. I figured it was only about $15 and had a 30 day warranty so if it died during the project I could warranty it or if it survived beyond the project that was a win.

Fro the angle grinder I'd spend money and get a good brand, this is a tool you'll continue to find use for long after the bedliner.
 
So today I used 3 bottles of dewaxing chemicals. I skipped the raptor liner. I will do a proper restoration.

I am buying a heat gun and a mini angle grinder with discs that remove paint and rust but don't remove the sheet metal of the bed.



Any suggestions on a heat gun or angle grinder?

I have many hard years on a hitachi and porter cable and they are still kicking. I’ve killed a few dewalts, and cheap hf grinders. The Milwaukee is still smooth after a few years. I do not use them as much, now that I have a plasma. I did use the strip disks from benchmark abrasive and they worked well. After the strip disks I hit it with 80 grit on the da.
 
I have many hard years on a hitachi and porter cable and they are still kicking. I’ve killed a few dewalts, and cheap hf grinders. The Milwaukee is still smooth after a few years. I do not use them as much, now that I have a plasma. I did use the strip disks from benchmark abrasive and they worked well. After the strip disks I hit it with 80 grit on the da.

So strip it all, bondo it up and then hit it with an 80 grit before the raptor liner?
 
Ok so use the abrasive disc that removes everything from the surface. I will use primer to seal the metal from any possible future rust. If I use a primer do I need to rough it up with the 80 grit?
 
Ok so use the abrasive disc that removes everything from the surface. I will use primer to seal the metal from any possible future rust. If I use a primer do I need to rough it up with the 80 grit?


80 is bare metal prep, what is needed for bondo\ primer to stick.
 
80 is bare metal prep, what is needed for bondo\ primer to stick.

Ok so strip down to metal. Repair with bondo. Go over it all with 80 grit. Then use primer. Thanks!

I am having a hard time locating a small angle grinder. Mostly find mini angled polishing machines. I know that it's hard to get all of the metal stripped down with a full sized angle grinder. Would this work with a wire brush to strip and and then 80 grit?

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Iirc, there’s a collapsible rod that goes between the bracket and your seat. When the seat is folded forward the rod holds it in place, release the lock and the seat goes back to its usable position.
 

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