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rattle can paint job

84k5

84k5

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 13, 2000
Posts
2,949
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Location
Dublin, CA
Here's what we have:
-buddy's 1985 chevy truck in desperate need of some paint
-$50
-use of my parents garage over 3 day weekend coming up
-about 15 kids who have mentioned they want a part in painting the truck

Needed:
- some sort of a clue

I searched through this and other sights and I haven't really found what I am looking for. So...fire away with some answers please.

Prep work...we have have plenty of time and people and want to make the truck look as nice as possible.

1. What grid sand paper?
2.Dry sanding/wet sanding?
3. How far down should we sand it?
4. Any other prep work?

Paint....
5. How many cans are we going to need?
6. Any tips or advice?

This is an experiment. Guy mentioned it and everyone thought it would be really fun to do, so why not. The truck can't really look to much worse. Thanks.


Brian
 
this months issue of petersens 4wheel &off road has some nice articles for the do it yourself paint job and body work, would be a good investment, good luck

"growin old is not for sissies"
77k5 400/350/np203/stock for now
 
I think that is where the idea actually started from
wink.gif
.

Brian
 
Depends on the condition it's in right now. If there is rust then it should be coated with POR-15. If there is just primer showing where paint has flaked off then those spots should be feathered in with 600 grit sand paper. In any case, to make the new paint adhere to old paint, it should all be sanded with 600 grit (I used wet/dry with a random orbital sander that was about $50). After sanding, wipe it down thurougly with tri-chlor or acetone to remove all the oil and dust. Spray it on in thin coats. I think that after you spray it, you might also want to wet sand it (since you have the man power put it to work!) with 1000 then 1500 grit since spray cans don't have a fine mist and leave a slightly rough texture.
 
...or you could go with the camo look like mine, done rattle can. You want flat paint and don't have to worry about all that sanding to get that smooth shiny coat.

Brian
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.saddletramps.com/BlazerK5.htm>www.saddletramps.com/BlazerK5.htm</a>
 
Assuming you start with all the rough work complete (filler, primer, sanded), and don't expect this to look like a $4000 professional job, what I would do is:

-Spray the first color coat, keep it thin to minimize runs and sags
-Let dry according to can instructions
-Sand the sags/runs because they will be there no matter how hard you try. get it smooth, nothing says rattle can like runs
-Wet sand entire surface with high grit w/d paper, probably 400 will do. Use lots of water while sanding to keep from scratching, hosing is probably the most effective, but the idea is to keep from getting buildup in the sandpaper. This is one reason why you want the paint to be dry enough.
-After sanding, get off all the residue and spray your second coat and repeat sanding/painting until you're satisfied with the coverage.
-Do a final sanding (color sanding) with at least 600 grit w/d *remembering to keep the sandpaper clean* (hosing as you sand preferred).
-Buff with rubbing compound and watch as your paint really starts to shine. Careful here, especially if you are using high speed power buffers, because you can buff right the through the paint. You'll likely want to use a low rev buffer as even the pros screw the pooch occasionally using high speed buffers.
- Remember that I'm just some schuck from the land of i-nod that doesn't know jack.

Sounds like you guys will have a fun weekend, enjoy.


John
 
Before I had my $300.00 Maaco paint job, I also did some "professional rattle canning" on my rig. Like already mentioned, it really depends on the truck's current condition. Painting it is the easiest part. Prep work is where the work is at. My advice to you is to go with a flat paint because it is very forgiving in terms of what mistakes/faults in prep work leave behind.

I did all my prepwork by hand by myself (first timer) and it took a long time. I used the Krylon olive drab and it looked great.

I don't want to discourage you from having fun, but let me just give you some friendly advice. When all was said and done, and after I spent money on sandpaper, primer cans, paint cans, grease remover, etc, etc. The money was pretty darn near close to what I spent for my Maaco paint job.

I went with the rattle can job because I was on a budget and because I also wanted to have some fun with my rig, and I did have some fun and learned a lot, but if you are looking at it in terms of saving some dough, its hard to beat a budget paint job.

I did all the prep/bodywork myself and then had Maaco just spray the paint.

Also, be sure to use a primer that is also a sealer because the reagular primer is pourous, meaning that water will go through it and eventually rust out the metal.

Hope this helps...


<font color=red>"SETTING OFF ALARMS IN A CITY NEAR YOU!"</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
 
let me give you guys my idea... I'm going to sand my k5 (IE - not the one with the nice paint job) down to metal, and do the basic body work. I'm then going to spray it with zero rust (comes in several colors), and nothing else but a UV protectant.

should give me a solid finish, and you can get zerorust in rattle can too for a rock hard finish. (plus will be more of a flat paint - looks like the black in the engine compartment)

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
 
we used 12 cans of od green on my cousins 72 k5 and i used about 9 cans on my 69 donco!!!

NO LOCKER, STOCK GEARS, NO PWR BRAKES, NO POWER STEERING, NO PROBLEM!

HIT IT FULL CHICKEN!!!!
 
Buy atleast 12 cans of paint and about 12 sheets of 320 grit sandpaper. Sand it til you take the gloss off the paint and primer it where there's bare metal. Rinse off all the dust, dry it with a chamie, and clean it with a tack cloth. Then just mask it and paint it.
It's just another learning experiance, enjoy it you can always fix it later.

<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chvyhs>WebShot Pics</a>
 
I broke every rule when I did a <a target="_blank" href=http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-468642-CamoBeast.jpg>camo job</a> on my truck.... I wiped off the paint that was on there (factory) with a damp rag and sprayed it. It cost me like $40 bucks and took my friend and I two days cuz it kept raining (I was in Oregon). It's been way over 2 years and it still looks fine and held up. I just have had to go over the white some due to it turned a funky color when it got dirty.....

&lt;&gt;&lt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>Steph's Webpage</a>&gt;&lt;&gt;
Suck Fumes Ford Boy
I'm in shape.... round is a shape......
 
Here's my <a target="_blank" href=http://www.PictureTrail.com/gallery/view?username=possum70>rattle can paint job</a>. It's under bertha and not the camo pics. Those were painted with photoshop4 to use as a guide for when I finish my body work. It's the flag. I couldn't go to NY
frown.gif
, couldn't give blood(meds)
crazy.gif
, and Wally World sold out of flags. But hey! They had red white and blue paint
laugh.gif
. I just washed and painted over exististing paint, but I have to replace those panels and door anyway. So I'm not worried about longevity.

&lt;P ID="edit"&gt;&lt;FONT class="small"&gt;&lt;EM&gt;Edited by possum on 01/11/02 08:58 PM.&lt;/EM&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by possum on 01/11/02 09:01 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Clicky: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.PictureTrail.com/gallery/view?username=possum70>rattle can paint job</a>

&lt;&gt;&lt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>Steph's Webpage</a>&gt;&lt;&gt;
Suck Fumes Ford Boy
I'm in shape.... round is a shape......
 
wet the floor of the garage whe nyou paint, so dirt sticks to it, and not the wet paint.

90K5
 
Well, you get what you pay for. Its by no means a show-quality paint job, and it does have many imperfections (a lot due to my bodywork), and its pretty obvious they have their beginner painters spray cars in the budget price paint jobs. I'm happy overall with it, though. My advice is if you want an awesome paint job, stay away from Maaco.

<font color=red>"SETTING OFF ALARMS IN A CITY NEAR YOU!"</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
 
heres what this ole redneck did my daily driver is a 76 f250 and the dody is in great shape and the interiors is also customly done done by me and my buddies and looks real nice just get some bondo and do your bondoin then sand yur body ruffly and get some car or boat paint and a brush and slap it on you can make it look perty good mine looks good and is alot tougher than the rattle can hell i wonder how rino liner would look on a truck perty sure even i couldnt scratch that kidden
confederate redneck
 
Iv seen a couple of guys use latex on there rigs.One guy rolled it on and the other used a Wagoner power painter.They acualy didnt look that bad .It was easy to touch up and is fairy tuff.

Some people shouldnt drive anything bigger than their head.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
 
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