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Re: 2003 1500hd rear brakes

Wicked Wolf Auto

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just had my 2003 1500hd 4x4 inspected and it failed for excessive braking in the rear. It has 72k miles on it...where should I start looking? I've to do nothing but change the oil in it since I got it! I'm really surprised, it brakes fine but maybe this is a reason my MPG sucks. The guy inspecting it said it may be the park brake, I wouldn't think it would get too tight over time though
 
frozen pads to the caliper brackets.

frozen capliper slide bolt pins.

severly rusted rotor face you might not see threw the rim on the back side of the rotor.

this is if disk brakes. vary comon items here in my area with rust buildup.
 
also i have to adjust the pad fit to the caliper bracket on most pads these days. to much casting flashing or tight tolerence. make sure there is a little play in the tabs and flats were the pad fits in the bracket.
 
Also, watch for oil or other contamination on the pads or rotors. A leaky seal will cause them to grab, but it usually only occurs on one side.

I have also seen this when just the front or back pads were changed. Different makes and models of pads have different coefficients of friction.

In other words, some pads grip harder than others with the same pressure.
So, if someone put aggressive pads on the rear, or less aggressive pads on the front, that would cause that problem.
 
This marks the second year I've had the truck and it did fine last year so I wouldn't think its differant pads, we do have rust issues here so maybe somethings bound up,

I just got back from a 1000 mile road trip to reno and back maybe that heated something up and is causing it.

Maybe it's just time for pads all around
 
Alan, your truck is basically a clone of my 99 2500 6.0. 4 wheel discs that are susceptible to rear rotors rusting under the braking surface, meaning if you take off the wheel, you might be able to chip off the shiny braking surface because rust has gotten between the braking surface and the core of the rotor, this has a detrimental effect on braking for sure.
As far as dragging brakes go, A quick check:
if you can sit on a very slight incline and put the truck in neutral and it rolls I don't think your brakes are dragging enough to worry about.

And my 6.0/4L80 4wd has only been 11.5-12 everyday driving, maybe 13.5 highway on a good day.
 
I'm going to swing by a midas on my way home for their free brake analysis...let them quote me and fix it myself...It couldn't be anything too serious I only have 72 k on it and it drives and brakes fine.
 
age and exposure is what will kill rear discs....salt just eats that raw steel up.
 
Those trucks are well known for the rear brakes getting rusty and having to be replaced, not cause they were worn out, but because the rotors were just too rusty. Happened on my 04 2500HD and my dads 2500HD. But this usually causes a lack of braking, not excessive. Your truck should also have the AAM/GM corp 10.5" full floater axle. These are also known for leaking rear hub seals (also too familiar with this repair) and that oil could have soaked the pads which will cause sticky brakes.

Sounds to me like you should plan on replacing rear pads, rotors, rear parking shoes and hardware and doing the hub seals and the small paper gasket at the end of the axle shaft to the FF hub. I wouldn't trust Midas to look at it for you, they're like the fast food of brake repairs, sure it's cheap but you'll regret it later.

Also watch for, where the pads slide on the caliper bracket, there is a stainless shim that they slide on. If you want, that can be cleaned up and reused, unless you get the good pads (highly recommend) that come with new ones. BUT, where those shims clip on to the caliper bracket will rust and expand under the shims and lock the pads in place (again, familiar with this too). I had to use a hammer and chisel to knock down all the loose, flaky rust so the pads would slide properly again. Do yourself a favor and put on some glasses when you do this. Rust specs in your eye are bad.
 
I have no intentions on having Midas do the work I just want them to troubleshoot it and all the work of breaking potentially rusted parts free. Then I can give my shopping list of parts to the napa guy and work and do it myself
 
make sure you can drive home after the check. lots of chain stores fu*K them up in there check out of the system to hose you in for big money.

i would NOT go to a place like that. i know its FREE brake check. but nothing is free in this world. :whistle::popcorn:
 
make sure you can drive home after the check. lots of chain stores fu*K them up in there check out of the system to hose you in for big money.

i would NOT go to a place like that. i know its FREE brake check. but nothing is free in this world. :whistle::popcorn:

Awesome news:woot:

Nothing was wrong they said they look awesome and must have been replaced recently, probabby just before I bought it, rotors pads and parking brake all looked near new...with hardly any rust. They said it was probably the skid plate test being used wrong and a visual overrides the skid plate so he overrode the rejection and gave me the paperwork:woot:
 
That changes things. It sounded as though the brakes had never been done.

Well, maybe it's time to do the fronts...
 

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