Re-building NP205

[dr1553]

Everyone,

I finally got my re-build kit. Its full of new bearings, needle bearings, seals, gaskets, more seals and more bearings. It did not come with instructions, bummer. I have a book on 69-72 blazers and it has a short section on the transfer cases but not really detailed with lots of pics. It shows the example(pics and all) of the NP208. It does tell the specs and torques for the NP205.

Has anyone here re-built their NP205? Is there any special tools that I need before I crack the case open? Any hints and tips?

Thanks,
David

 

[harry]

you'll need:

sockets:
1/2
9/16
1 1/8
1 5/16

you'll also need a big pair of snap ring pliers.

I think the overhaul manual walks you through the rebuild.

harry
69k5

 

[arq]

i second the snap ring pliers. I used the pic on a book. i think it was the chilton manual where i saw it at. do a search on the board. i think someone posted some pics of it.

actually send me your email address i can send you a copy.

ARQ.

1-72 4x4 CST Blazer
2-71 4x4 CST Blazer<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by arq on 09/10/01 04:09 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[k5blazerus]

I rebuilt mine and the only spec they had was the front and rear output shafts were 150 flbs.
colin

Save the whales Harpoon a fat chick.

 

[JungleBoy]

Where did you get your kit, how much did it cost? What brand of bearings came with it? Where made?

 

[dr1553]

Hola,

I got it at O'Reilly. Item # BCA T172. It cost $150.00 The brand of bearings are Federal Mugul made in USA, the seals are Federal Mogul made in Mexico, and the needle bearings are Federal Mogul made in Brazil.

Later,
David

 

[Steve_Chin]

I got mine from National Drivetrain for $130. It was a Motive Gear kit and included NSK (Japan) and Timken (USA) bearings. I don't recall who made the seals (NOK, I think, which would be Japanese) and couldn't tell about the gaskets. There were a couple of extra bearings in the kit (remember that I had to substitute one of the bearings for a sealed one because of my NV4500) and one or two extra gaskets. One thing I wish they included in the kit would be an assortment of shims for the idler. I didn't need any extra shims (in fact, I needed to delete one), but in case I did it'd have been nice.

 

[71RestoRod]

Steve,

I got the same kit from National Drivetrain... but the one I received did include some shims for the idler shaft. As it turned out though, I too had to pull a shim to set it up and had no need for the ones provided. In my case, (auto trans) I had to purchase one more bearing for the (stock) adapter separately... understandable given it's not really part of the t-case.

dr1553,

I burned through two pairs of (inadequate) snap ring pliers before I finally broke down and bought the right pair off the local Snap-On man. Made all the difference. Also, you could do the job without it, but my arbor press came in handy a couple of times. You'll also need a couple of long-nose punches.. I think 1/8" and 1/4" or something like that.

 

[chevyracing]

Make sure you have lots of beer and don't pinch you finger taking the snap rings off, it hurts. That is all I have to offer, sorry.

John

Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=)

 

[Steve_Chin]

71RestoRod is right about needing the correct pliers. The ones I have are not snap-ring pliers. They are "lock-ring pliers" made by Proto tool (#250G). I seem to always gravitate toward expensive stuff like Proto... Anyhow, you definitely can't pull the lock rings out of an NV4500 with anything less than this tool...