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Re-gearing Question on 10b Diffs

JPOutfitters

JPOutfitters

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on my 87 Burb, I want to go up to 35" tires meaning I want to go with 4:10s or 4:56 gears.....

Can I get away with doing the rear first and then run it until I can afford to do the front as well? If so, would I still be able to drive in 4H if need be without ruining anything if it still has the 3:73s in the front?

Or........do I wait and just do front and rear together and then get my 35" tires?
 
The second option. Although i wouldn't bother regearing ten bolts unless you are really only doing light trails and camping stuff. I have ten bolts in mine that Uncle Sam beefed up with detroits front and rear, alloy axle shafts, and 4.10 gearing. The only reason i bought them was because i got an great deal on them on C.L. If not i would have gone D60 and 14BFF and geared accordingly. Plus i only intend to use my truck for the light duty described above.
 
Find a 14 b sf 6 lug with 4.10s already in it. Should be around 300-500 bucks, about the same as a regear.

Then regear the front.

Although it will take some mods to make the SF fit because it will be from a newer truck.
 
blazinzuk said:
Find a 14 b sf 6 lug with 4.10s already in it. Should be around 300-500 bucks, about the same as a regear.

Then regear the front.

Although it will take some mods to make the SF fit because it will be from a newer truck.
Click to expand...

what kind of mods?
 
JPOutfitters said:
what kind of mods?
Click to expand...


Spring perches and shock mounts are in different locations.

I would just get new spring perches but probably try to cut the shock mounts off the old axle. Then those would need to be welded on.

The axle tube diameter is also bigger so new u bolts along with top plates if the axle doesn't come with them.

Reason I say this is because the rear 10 bolt is not a very good axle. It is fine stock for the most part but it does deserve its reputation.

The front 10 bolt is a fine axle though up to 36s locked or 38s unlocked
 
just about any 6 lug one, 88 on up it seems like. I would get one with drums I would think the discs ones would take further mods.

I have heard the 4wd ones are wider so look for one from a 4 wd.

I found one here for 250 bucks with 4.10 gears.

Good luck I plan to do the same swap on my Jimmy this summer
 
If you're not opposed to running 8 lugs, or converting hubs, you can get a set of front and rear 3/4 ton axles with factory 4.10 gearing. They'll bolt right in and are usually pretty cheap and easy to come by.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think some military trucks came with heavy duty 4.56 axles, but I think they're pretty costly.
 
paratrooper307 said:
If you're not opposed to running 8 lugs, or converting hubs, you can get a set of front and rear 3/4 ton axles with factory 4.10 gearing. They'll bolt right in and are usually pretty cheap and easy to come by.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think some military trucks came with heavy duty 4.56 axles, but I think they're pretty costly.
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I would swap in the 3/4 ton axles if I had wheels.......now we're just adding different costs!
 
You can regear the rear and not the front and still drive just fine on that truck without fulltime 4wd, don't even have to pull the front driveshaft, which I see alot of people do... Just remember NOT to put it in 4wd for awhile.. :tongue1:

Personally, with the price of buying new gears, setup kits and the labor involved, sometimes the cost of that labor for both diffs, it's still cheaper to go ahead and upgrade to the larger stuff. Get the 14bff and a minimum 3/4 ton front with matching gears, a cheap set of 8 lug wheels and the conversion u-joint for the rear and you're set.

I bought both diffs for my truck seperately through a few years of a total of $250. Ran with the 14bff and 3.73 gears and stock 3.42's for awhile, then swapped out the 3.73 for 4.10's and still had the 3.42's until I came across the 3/4 ton front diff with the 4.10's I am now using in both.

Wheels weren't anything major, originally I used stock steelies, alittle narrow, but worked, then found a cheap set of wider wagon style wheels and painted them black. Then I found sets of H2 wheels on Craigslist from time to time, so I went that route,,, that of course warranted the need for larger tires, and being 17's, those were the most expensive part of the whole setup.

And from personal experiance with a similar setup and 35" tires, i wouldn't go any less than 4.56 gears, I wish I had those at least. I'm running 4.10 and it tends to hunt between overdrive and 3rd alittle too easily.
 
maybe someone else on here that's closer will see this and hit you up!

You telling me you have one "if you were closer" is like when my boss told me "you could take a vacation if you weren't a manager"!! LOL
 
Kevin Strident said:
If you do the disc brake conversion on a donor 14-bolt FF, what do you do for an e-brake?
Click to expand...

you could always plumb in a manual adjustable brake valve into the line for your rear brakes and then just hold your brakes and tighten it down to hold pressure! This is what I'm thinking of doing for my rear brakes on my sandrail........

http://www.ecrater.com/p/7182470/hot-rod-universal-chrome-adjustable

plumb the supply to the rear brake line through the driver's side floor board and install the valve inline.
 
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