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Re-seating a tire on the trail?

Taylormade

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Saturday I busted a bead on my 16.5" rim once again. I thought I had everything I needed to fix it on the trail, starter fluid, a plug in air pump (pumps air at about half the speed of smell), a tie down strap....no sucess. I ended up driving out on my 31" spare which worked fine but if I needed 4WD I would have been in a bind since I run 35's. We got it back on once I got home with around 90psi and half a tube of grease. How much air should I have pumping to set it on the trail?
 
Combination of air and how much is escaping. If you are dumping in loads of air compared to how much is going out in order to create enough pressure to seat it, there ya go. If you can manage to half ass seal it up (like using grease) then you'll need less psi. Tie down strap, you mean ratchet strap around the tire? That's what I usually do, rarely have to goup it up with grease. Of course depends on tire and rim. If you have one of those 'emergency' air pumps like I do in my kit that plug into your cigarette lighter, good luck. Half the speed of smell is giving it credit. But even those can work if you manage to keep air from comming out, duct tape around the rim, plastic bag and spray adhesive, grease, triple expanding spray foam... few 'field expedient' things I've tried. Then again, I don't care what nasty goup gets on a military vehicle's tire :whistle: 3400psi pressure washer will get most anything off. :waytogo:
 
Remove wheel and tire.

Lay down with back on the ground laying flat.

Kick the bead down off the top all the way around.

Spray starting fluid w/ no lubricant in it inside the rim around the top lip and a small trail off the tire for safe lightning.

Light the starting fluid fast with a torch or stick lighter.

Potato gun vacuum noise ensues.

Tire is on bead front and back with ZERO air applied while beading...
 
That makes more sense; taking the tire off then spraying the starter fluid in behind the rim. I took the valve stem out and sprayed the fluid in that way which melted the valve stem....I know now what not to do. Thanks
 
It doesn't always work. Also make sure you get either instead of the dumbed down starting fluid that isn't as flammable.

Martin
 
Oftentimes on a 16.5 you will not be able to seat a bead unless you have air going in it.

Using the smaller air pump, you need a clip on chuck and enough hose to get the pump away from the tire.

Remove valve core, hook up pump, turn pump on, spray starting fluid around the bead, light starting fluid. Boom reseated. Pump it up to your preferred pressure. Put valve core back in. Continue down the trail.
 
The problem with ether is that no matter how you do it, you always risk melting the glue that bonds the metal insert to the rubber of the valve stem. If you do that, you're stuck hi-lifting the damn bead back off, plugging a new stem through, and doing it over again.

There's always the issue of pyrolysis too.

A bicycle inner tube, ratchet strap, and an extra pair of hands is easier in practice anyway 99% of the time because it's more consistent and reliable. I only ever resort to ether on something really irritating like a bias ply that has sat on its side for a long time, and you don't have time to wedge the beads to make them take a set further apart.

If a guy has a little 5 gal. air tank from walmart, even a cheap cig. plug compressor, and a ratchet strap...well that's really about the extent of what I use when I mount my own tires in my garage. I can mount two of my 40s (and that's from a bare rim i.e. both beads) without having to refill that tank. Actually, my compressor is only like 3.8 gallons, so it's even less.

I'm not sure grease is the greatest idea for sealing the bead while your setting it. It's just going to stay there and lubricate things so that it comes off easier when you start wheeling again. Dish soap works really well for a lubricant while you're seating, and it dries up afterward, and it won't break down the rubber of the tire. It's not viscous enough to seal though. That's where the inner tube comes in handy. But really, it's very rare that I need to seal it because I jam a wrench or 2x4 or something in the beads to stretch the tire out. Then if you have to, you can cinch a ratchet strap around the tire and you can also maneuver the rim inside the tire to help it seal too.

I was reading a thread on Pirate a while back about people using weatherstrip adhesive on the beads to help hold it on the rim. Seemed like maybe the people having success were just being more careful about sidehilling and such....but I keep meaning to try. Most of the time when I debead I hear them whistling little bits of air out first. I think I'm just losing the last 5psi and then once they're totally flat it doesn't take much to push them off there. Maybe the weatherstrip adhesive would just help keep seal up any small cracks, kinda like pump seals on autos. It is pretty elastic stuff.
 
You don't know what that is, do you?

Martin

Homemade cheetahs aren't something a guy could make at home. I mean, where the hell could a guy find a small air tank and a ball valve...:) Not to mention a hammer to smash a short piece of exhaust pipe with. I mean, I'm not sure the last time I even saw a hammer for sale. I think they're special order these days.

I wonder if they cost so much because there's some kind of special safety regulations on them. There is no reason they should cost any more to manufacture than one of those little portable air tanks with a tire chuck on them.

There's a guy back home that made one from a propane tank for seating his 45" AGs...I suppose you'd have to be careful not to blow the whole damn tire off the rim if you were using it on little street tires lol

Wow, surprised I could find a picture of it.

PICT0535.jpg
 
I've used them on 205/75R15's. No problems.

A buddy of mine owns/runs an On Farm Tire Service truck. His is home made, and he has been using it for years.

Martin
 
The problem with ether is that no matter how you do it, you always risk melting the glue that bonds the metal insert to the rubber of the valve stem. If you do that, you're stuck hi-lifting the damn bead back off, plugging a new stem through, and doing it over again.

There's always the issue of pyrolysis too.

A bicycle inner tube, ratchet strap, and an extra pair of hands is easier in practice anyway 99% of the time because it's more consistent and reliable. I only ever resort to ether on something really irritating like a bias ply that has sat on its side for a long time, and you don't have time to wedge the beads to make them take a set further apart.

If a guy has a little 5 gal. air tank from walmart, even a cheap cig. plug compressor, and a ratchet strap...well that's really about the extent of what I use when I mount my own tires in my garage. I can mount two of my 40s (and that's from a bare rim i.e. both beads) without having to refill that tank. Actually, my compressor is only like 3.8 gallons, so it's even less.

I'm not sure grease is the greatest idea for sealing the bead while your setting it. It's just going to stay there and lubricate things so that it comes off easier when you start wheeling again. Dish soap works really well for a lubricant while you're seating, and it dries up afterward, and it won't break down the rubber of the tire. It's not viscous enough to seal though. That's where the inner tube comes in handy. But really, it's very rare that I need to seal it because I jam a wrench or 2x4 or something in the beads to stretch the tire out. Then if you have to, you can cinch a ratchet strap around the tire and you can also maneuver the rim inside the tire to help it seal too.

I was reading a thread on Pirate a while back about people using weatherstrip adhesive on the beads to help hold it on the rim. Seemed like maybe the people having success were just being more careful about sidehilling and such....but I keep meaning to try. Most of the time when I debead I hear them whistling little bits of air out first. I think I'm just losing the last 5psi and then once they're totally flat it doesn't take much to push them off there. Maybe the weatherstrip adhesive would just help keep seal up any small cracks, kinda like pump seals on autos. It is pretty elastic stuff.



I tried this on a couple tires in my driveway for practice. The metal insert kept blowing out. It did it 3 times. The bead sealed, but I was screwed due to the glue melting. I ended up taking the to a tire shop. They used that air tank and blasted the air in. I want one. The tire guy said they were around $300.00. I had 42" TSLs on a 16.5" wheel. Im getting beadlocks on my next set of tires.
 
I am sure the cheetahs are expensive because of liability and stuff. If you have ever used one you have to be careful with em.

When I rig up onboard air I plan to make an attachement that will be kind of like a cheetah. Only problem is buying the hose to let it go 10 ft away from the truck and still have the volume.
 
Yeah its a portable version of a high volume bead seater built into a tire machine no?

No. You use these when the bead seater on a tire machine won't work. They are much more effective than a tire machine.

Also, if that is what you thought it was, I don't understand your theory of having OBA instead of one of these???

Martin
 
I am sure the cheetahs are expensive because of liability and stuff. If you have ever used one you have to be careful with em.

When I rig up onboard air I plan to make an attachement that will be kind of like a cheetah. Only problem is buying the hose to let it go 10 ft away from the truck and still have the volume.

How would you hold it in the correct place with a hose?

Martin
 
No. You use these when the bead seater on a tire machine won't work. They are much more effective than a tire machine.

Also, if that is what you thought it was, I don't understand your theory of having OBA instead of one of these???

Martin


:dunno:

Because personally I'd rather have the functionality of OBA and use some ether and a chuck. But I've heard 16.5s are a different animal.
 
How would you hold it in the correct place with a hose?

Martin

the outlet is the only thing that you have to hold. Some sort of handle will be rigged. You can make a little tip for it to sit on the outside of the rim like a real Cheetah pretty easily. So it will essentially be the end of a cheetah. Will be a two man operation because the ball valve will be on the tank
 
I had never seen or heard of a cheeta before just now. Thanks to you tube, I could see it in action! That looks pretty handy! I think i will stick with the lighter fluid method now that I know the correct-ish way to do it. Maybe a small tank in the blazer with me, or OBA? I really dont want to get stranded again. Maybe a full size spare is another option!
 

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