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Real Daily Driver / Weekend Warrior - Engine Mount Questions

I planned on keeping the Tuned Port. They always looked so cool to me and though I would love a LS engine, that takes this project to a level I can't afford. I was hoping to have it ready to drive daily in a few weeks now it looks like a few months!

The TPI is a 305. I know I know. Everyone knows they suck and for a few more dollars I could have a 350. It was supposed to be a 350 but as soon as I saw it at Walmart I knew it was a 305. I got him to reduce his price $500 but I don't know what I am going to do. The budget won't allow a new motor too. So I may freshen up the 305 and save some funds.


You can probably look up the exact numbers, but the difference in the 305 and 350 is like 10 hp and 30 lbs of torque according to the factory. Most 305s tpi were like 230 hp and 350s were 240. Torque on 305s was like 290-300 and 350s were like 330. Even a Corvette tpi 350 won't get you noticeably more power. To me that is insignificant. You save the difference in gas mileage.
 
You save the difference in gas mileage.

That is exactly what I am thinking. Especially since I hope to drive it daily. I have gotten used to the Impala 17 MPG in-town so every bit will help. It can't run any worse than a 350 with a factory carb. :haha:

I am researching the 700R4 swap right now. I planned to use the TH350C but after dropping the pan last night, it may need help sooner than I thought. Having a bit of "well while I'm here I might as well" sometimes that gets me in trouble.
 
You'll like the TH700R4 much better for your intended use any way.

Martin
 
I picked up a 700R4 front drive shaft, crossover, and t-case adapter from a friend last night. I'll have to have a rear driveshaft built.

Still having a lot of problems finding an evaporator box for underhood that is not torn up. We have two salvage yards here that have older trucks. One has none and the other wants $200! I was thinking more like $50 but I guess they are not as plentiful as I thought.

Picked up a diesel radiator also so that I have a 34" core. I have a set of cooling fans for a 34" so I was wanting to use it if possible.
 
I picked up a 700R4 front drive shaft, crossover, and t-case adapter from a friend last night. I'll have to have a rear driveshaft built.

Still having a lot of problems finding an evaporator box for underhood that is not torn up. We have two salvage yards here that have older trucks. One has none and the other wants $200! I was thinking more like $50 but I guess they are not as plentiful as I thought.

Picked up a diesel radiator also so that I have a 34" core. I have a set of cooling fans for a 34" so I was wanting to use it if possible.

Mine was trashed as well and I replace the whole box (and evap while I was there). The box came from the junkyard and was no where near $200!! I'm thinking around $35 if you pull it yourself.....
 
I am sure shipping would kill the deal, but I could probably send you an evaporator box off a parts truck.

Martin
 
@ Martin - I'll PM you and see if we can work it out.

I picked up a little something today...


And also:D
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I decided to go with a small aftermarket cam instead of a straight up original. I liked the profile of the Summit 1103. Looks like a mild torque producing cam that will work well with my 305 and good manners!

Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/282, Lift .442/.465, 212 Duration.

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Not a lot of picture worthy work this weekend. Mostly cleaning and preping. I did get the broken crossmember out to make room for the ORD member. Picked up the powder coated parts earlier:

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Nice build so far! I'm excited to see how the tpi 305 and 700r4 work out for you!

What gearing does it have? Stock 3.08s? My k10 had a 305 and 3.08s and it was a major dog. Instead of changing the gearing I removed the relieble 305 and now on my 2nd 350 and it didn't come to life until I swapped in 4.10s
 
I was told it was a 3.73, but little else has been true. I expect it has 3.08. I need to pull the covers to service maybe I'll figure it out this weekend.
 
Nice ...paint looks good from here!

subscribed :waytogo:
 
Look at your glove box sticker and see what RPO code it has. Not a sure fire way to know but at least you will know what it had. You are looking for GT4 for 3.73, GU6 is 3.42 (if I remember right) Gu4 for 3.08? It is the one that starts with G.
 
Yeah the glove box is missing. Its on the list of must buy items. Found a red one that matches. That pretty much finishes up the inside
 
nice build thats crappy that the motor caught fire. glad your ok and your moving forward.
 
So my stock style engine mounts won't come close to clearing my headers. I ordered up a set of DIY4X mounts because they look more compact and they were about half the price of those from ORD.

This leads me to another question. Obviously the strut rods that go down from the engine mounts to support the transmission can not be used with headers. Is this a problem? What do most people do to replace that support?:confused:

I guess this also leads to the question: Is there a set of headers where those strut rods can be retained?
 
I'm curious about the strut question myself.
I put some headers on my 84 Blazer and left the struts in place.

What headers are your running?. I had Thorleys with zero clearance issues.
 
I'm curious about the strut question myself.
I put some headers on my 84 Blazer and left the struts in place.

What headers are your running?. I had Thorleys with zero clearance issues.

Me too, but I think mine are cheap Heddmans.
They clear the strut no problem. My truck is a 77. Shouldn`t make much difference though.
 
These are a set I have had for a while they are Sanderson stainless. I ran them on a 81 short wide 2WD though I ran aftermarket mounts on it too. It was a 2WD so it did not have the struts. They are center dump block huggers. I may have to go to some Thorley's. I always have run shorties because I prefer the easy of installation and future service, though I know they make less power.
 
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