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Real world answers to a couple questions.

Whitetrashbeautiful

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Jul 19, 2013
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Jacksonville, NC
I have three questions I need real world answers to. We all have our dream combos( Mine is a 6.0/4L80e/atlas twin stick/14bff/d60) but I don't have that kinda cash laying around... But I do have a 355/350/208 with ten bolts. Also have a 700r4 that I might throw in depending on what I get from here. My truck is sitting on 35" tires right now. Now I've read about selectable/auto/LSD and I'd like some real world answers on what's the best type for my truck. Also some good suggestions on gears for my truck, for the turbo350 and 700r4, also which would be better, the 350 or 700?

Truck has a mild 355(350hp/380tq) and 35"s. it will be used as a mild trail truck, recovery vehicle (16.5 front winch/ 12k rear winch), and base camp truck which will a lot of pavement.
So to recap:
1. Which type of locker is best for my situation?
2. Which tranny should I use? 350 or 700
3. What gears should I put in the axles?
 
I wouldnt spend any money on your axle and gears and this is coming from a 10bolt guy. You using that truck on 35s and recovery will probably put alot of stress on what is considered weak axles.

With that said, Im running 10bolt front and rear with Strange Chromoly axles, 4:10 gears with Loc-Rite locker. Im also running 305cid / 700r , my Hp is probably below 200hp so im not about to over power the rear end and Im running 33 x 12.5s. My truck sees 80% pavement and have had no issues with the loc-rite locker, it just replaces the spider gears, I wouldnt waste the money on a detriot (replaces whole carrier) in a 10bolt.

There are alot of selectable lockers out there, ARB air lockers, OX cable lockers. I like the Loc-Rite, I havent had any issues on the street at all, ever so often itll "lock up" and just make a loud bang but heard its not an issue.

I think you should consider hunting down atleast a rear 14bff.

But with your question is a trick question, if you go with t-350 you want taller gears to run up the highway, if you run 700r you can get away with 4:30 gears or lower gears.
 
Could find a 14bolt semi float with 410s...then take the $$ saved get a locker and regear the front. This lets u keep 6 lug wheels too, assuming u find a 6 lug 14b.

Also keep an eye out at the JY or CL for axles that pop up from time to time. Might score some 1 tons from a cucv with 456s and a Detroit!
 
No trick question am debating putting in the 700 and if I do what gears do I need? And the loc-right is an auto locker right? And I'm looking into the 14bsf as an option. I know I need gears cuz the 3.07's ain't gonna work with 35"s so what kinda gears would I need for either the 350 or 700 depending on which one i run. I'm leaning towards 700 bc of overdrive which would work great on highway. In the meantime to bigger axles will the tens hold up to light use. And when I say recovery I'm an anchor point not a tug boat. That's why I have huge winches. Not many trucks I run with need more than 16.5k for a pull out and if for some reason that won't pull them ill use my doubler pulley. If still won't budge at 33klbs, it's gettin lit on fire and left till the second coming... The stuck truck not my winches....
 
With the 700R-4, might as well go 5.13's right away. Even as deep as that you're only turning 2250 rpm at 65 mph in OD. Has a couple of advantages, one is good use of OD without gear hunting, two is room for larger tires later and not having to re-gear again.

Lockers...I'm a fan of the full case Detroit if you're staying half ton. The stock open carrier is one weak spot, as are shafts. With aftermarket shafts and a full case LSD or locker and you'll be OK on 35's unless you drive like a R-tard.

Gearing for the TH350...3.73 are decent if you spend any real time on the highway, 4.10's a bit better if the highway is where you'll rarely be. Both will have you north of 2500 rpm at 65 mph...
 
If stayin 350 go 4.10 or get 3/4 ton axles and replace what you got. Much cheaper and stronger to replace the axles then to regear it. If you go 700r4 go 4.88 or 5.13 gearing. With ten bolts I'd keep it 4.88 as the pinion starts to get weak after that. 35s and half ton can live but it's a guessing game how long. Especially if you are pulling on other trucks and 4xing. I broke one on road and one off road and the third rear was on its way out when I changed to 3/4 ton and havnt had a problem since.
 
My K5 sees mostly street use. The offroading it gets is very mild. Engine is a new gm tbi 5.7, stock power level, np208, 700r4 with upgrades, 4.88 with trutrac lsd in rear, upgraded rear shafts (I think 32 spline), 315/75r16 which is close to 35's. 65 mph is around 2300 rpm. I am very happy with the 4.88 gears. I was in heavy traffic tonight that moved quick and then stopped even quicker. 3rd gear put my at 2700-3500 rpm depending on speed. I could accelerate quickly and also had some compression braking to slow down quicker when traffic slowed. Taking off from a stop is pretty decent for acceleration as well. I roll into it rather than just hammer the pedal. I don't have a cv rear shaft yet, I have 6" rear blocks from the PO, and it is only a 10b rear and front.

OP, it sounds like you are a more serious off roader than I am. I would seriously consider upgrading to 3/4 ton axles. I spent a boat load on upgrading my rear 10 bolt, but the 4.10 or so gears of a 14bff would have still been crappy for me, and an open diff wouldn't have been desired. I was looking at the cost of the 14bff and upgrading it, all when my 10 bolt took a dump and my pickup was out of service. Needless to say I had to get the K5 back on the road quick and without spending more money than necessary. I was confident in 10 bolts for my use.

I am glad to have the 14bff in my pickup from the factory. It has 33x12.50x16.5 bfg at's and is powered by a built 406 sbc. The carpet under the loud pedal has permanent marks from the bottom of the gas pedal. burnout
I'm sure I could trash a 10 bolt if it was in that truck.
 

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