CK5
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Realistic hp gains by headers
- Thread starter nsxxtreme
- Start date
blackk5350
1/2 ton status
if you ad the sticker that comes in the box to your window at least 50hp
It's fairly typical (based on the few fairly thorough dyno tests I've read) for a 5L+ motor to see 30+ HP from headers.
Of course, with stock TBI heads, who knows. If intake flow won't support it, or the valves won't, more efficient exhaust won't help as much. However, since good headers (long tube) will help scavenge the cylinder, they will always help over stock manifolds.
Just don't cheap out.
Of course, with stock TBI heads, who knows. If intake flow won't support it, or the valves won't, more efficient exhaust won't help as much. However, since good headers (long tube) will help scavenge the cylinder, they will always help over stock manifolds.
Just don't cheap out.
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
Finally going to go with headers?
I doubt he'll get a 30 horse gain from just the headers. Maybe from a newer truck or performance car, but not from a 20 year old truck motor. To get that much HP from just the headers I think you would need to spend some time remaping the fuel/spark curves.
The best thing about headers is that they will almost always make more HP/TQ. And once you start adding other performance parts, they will help even more. For the cost and ease of installation they are well worth the money though. As said before, don't go ultra cheap. You will regret it in the long run.
No, we're talking carbed GM and Ford small blocks. Bone stock factory stuff from the 80's or late 70's. People SEVERELY underestimate how much power the factory gave up to get reliable exhaust.
I wouldn't post up numbers like that if I wasn't confident the articles I was reading were realistic for most people, unlike most of the magazines 30 part change two dyno run articles.
If I'm not mistaken, the LSx series exhaust is a whole lot more efficient than a log or hump dumping four cylinders into one chamber. If manifolds made power, they'd still look like they used to.
I wouldn't post up numbers like that if I wasn't confident the articles I was reading were realistic for most people, unlike most of the magazines 30 part change two dyno run articles.
If I'm not mistaken, the LSx series exhaust is a whole lot more efficient than a log or hump dumping four cylinders into one chamber. If manifolds made power, they'd still look like they used to.
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Agreed. I bought some cheapo's and they lost their coating in the first 15 minutes. Partly my fault becuase the motor was new and created alot of heat but you should try to get something close to ceramic coated if you want them to last.
The paint that comes on painted headers is not meant for high heat, they usually even come with a piece of paper stating this exact thing. The paint is only there to protect them from rust.
If you strip that paint off and repaint with high temp paint (like that meant for a BBQ grill) it works great!
If you strip that paint off and repaint with high temp paint (like that meant for a BBQ grill) it works great!
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
They claimed 1500 degrees (dynomax I believe). Like I said though It was a brand new motor and I should have used my stock manifolds until it was broke in.
I dont really care about looks so I don't really need a set of ceramic coated ones. In fact if I bought a set I think I would wrap them in exhaust tape to try and keep the under hood heat down.
I haven't really decided if I intend to get a set yet they seem to be more of a hassle then they are worth. I'm just looking at the options at this point. If I could find a used set on craigslist for a cheap price I might pick a set up. Thanks for the info and realistic numbers guys.
I haven't really decided if I intend to get a set yet they seem to be more of a hassle then they are worth. I'm just looking at the options at this point. If I could find a used set on craigslist for a cheap price I might pick a set up. Thanks for the info and realistic numbers guys.
jonathon
1/2 ton status
You wrap your headers, especially around here, and they'll rot fast. Not to mention they won't have a warranty.
^^^Beat my to it....I type slow.
The ceramic coating does more than keep the heat in...it'll protect them from rust longer. I'd suggest not wraping them. The wrap will hold moisture and cause them to rust faster...plus the warranty will be void too. If you get painted ones you can wheel the factory paint off and spary them with some header paint yourself. VHT seems to last longer than the original coating. I have to do the headers on my drag car once a season to keep them looking good. But I could let it go longer if I wanted...I just like to keep them looking fresh. Plus I need something to occupy the 4-5 months a year I can't use the car.
The ceramic coating does more than keep the heat in...it'll protect them from rust longer. I'd suggest not wraping them. The wrap will hold moisture and cause them to rust faster...plus the warranty will be void too. If you get painted ones you can wheel the factory paint off and spary them with some header paint yourself. VHT seems to last longer than the original coating. I have to do the headers on my drag car once a season to keep them looking good. But I could let it go longer if I wanted...I just like to keep them looking fresh. Plus I need something to occupy the 4-5 months a year I can't use the car.
the factory coating sucks. I'd wheel that off anyways and shoot it with header paint,plus you get to do whatever color you want. i recently did mine on my race truck. i used the vht flat blue just to be different and i love the way they turned out.
Thanks for the heads up I didn't think of that.
http://www.tbichips.com/blackmagic.htm
read this one. brian has a chassie dyno he can use. and he did a exaust system and posted the dyno info. shorty headers and high flow cat and muffler 30ish hp to rear wheels.
read this one. brian has a chassie dyno he can use. and he did a exaust system and posted the dyno info. shorty headers and high flow cat and muffler 30ish hp to rear wheels.
greg mgm
1/2 ton status
Since you're looking at options...
Installing could be a pain. Under hood heat is definitely increased. Wrapping headers isn't a good idea because of rust (Just my opinion though)
I haven't dyno'd my 454 with/ without headers so I can't comment on HP numbers, but since I went with Thorley headers, I know the HP has increased. I originally bought Blackjack headers (many years ago) and hated them. The gaskets needed to be changed regularly, and eventually they rusted and developed a hole. Since installing the Thorleys, I've had no problems at all.
If you decide to buy headers, buy high quality!
Installing could be a pain. Under hood heat is definitely increased. Wrapping headers isn't a good idea because of rust (Just my opinion though)
I haven't dyno'd my 454 with/ without headers so I can't comment on HP numbers, but since I went with Thorley headers, I know the HP has increased. I originally bought Blackjack headers (many years ago) and hated them. The gaskets needed to be changed regularly, and eventually they rusted and developed a hole. Since installing the Thorleys, I've had no problems at all.
If you decide to buy headers, buy high quality!
I know it takes time to get stuff to the market, but I'd like to see these in a size that fits our truck:
http://www.hedman.com/products/Default.asp?id=6623&v=more
More coming they say, hope the present state of the economy doesn't slow them down.
http://www.hedman.com/products/Default.asp?id=6623&v=more
More coming they say, hope the present state of the economy doesn't slow them down.
I ended up purchasing a set of stainless steel headers from Brian at TBI chips. I also purchased a chip for my blazer from him. Great guy and very helpful.
I'm still thinking of wrapping these headers. Since they are stainless hopefully they wont rust. This truck is not a daily driver it see's MAYBE 3000 miles a year. Its a toy and only used to tow the dirt bikes and boat.
Thanks for all the tips and comments!
I'm still thinking of wrapping these headers. Since they are stainless hopefully they wont rust. This truck is not a daily driver it see's MAYBE 3000 miles a year. Its a toy and only used to tow the dirt bikes and boat.
Thanks for all the tips and comments!
Brocky
1/2 ton status
Long tube or short tube?
jonathon
1/2 ton status
My old K5 had headers and didn't run too hot under the hood. Even if you don't drive it much they'll still get a little damp. It is the NW after all
