The title says it all I was leaning to a 10bolt over a 12 but both seem a little weak espically because I want to run a spool(with 33's mabe one day 35's) What would be my best bet to make it strong new axle shafts? Warn FF kit? I was also wondering if you could use outters from a different rear end like a 14bolt SF /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
CK5
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REALLY STRONG ½TON REAR END?
- Thread starter CHEVY 4WD
- Start date
Bubba Ray Boudreaux
1 ton status
Full float it.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
If you are dead set on 1/2 ton, then get a 12 bolt over a 10. 10's suck, I know. avoid a rear 10 bolt like the plague. The 12 is stronger and can be made stronger too. Alloy axles, and a good strong differential (full spool, detoit, etc) will go along way.
If you can find one I would find a 14 bolt semi floater. They are stronger then both the 10 & 12 but are harder to find. You can find them in Light Duty 3/4 ton Chevy pickups after 1988ish. They are the 6 lug. You will have to modify the spring perches possibly to make it fit, but it is worth it if you can find one.
If you can find one I would find a 14 bolt semi floater. They are stronger then both the 10 & 12 but are harder to find. You can find them in Light Duty 3/4 ton Chevy pickups after 1988ish. They are the 6 lug. You will have to modify the spring perches possibly to make it fit, but it is worth it if you can find one.
thebigdaddyof2
1/2 ton status
Really strong 1/2 ton rear ends don't exist.
If you must stay 6 lug, find a 14bolt semi-floater.
If you must stay 6 lug, find a 14bolt semi-floater.
MEPR
1/2 ton status
Before i give much advise what kind of stuff are you going to be doing whith the rig. If its going to be a mall cruiser then go 10bolt and keep it cheap but if your just doing trail stuff and not alot of hard wheelin then i would say full float a 12bolt. But if you going to be running on rocks or going through real deep mud regularly i would look at a 14sf.
Bubba Ray Boudreaux
1 ton status
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Really strong 1/2 ton rear ends don't exist.
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Bullsh*t!!!!!
We've got one in the club.
That's a 12 bolt riding in the rear. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Really strong 1/2 ton rear ends don't exist.
[/ QUOTE ]
Bullsh*t!!!!!
We've got one in the club.
That's a 12 bolt riding in the rear. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
ZonkRat
1/2 ton status
12Bs aren't that bad.Get rid of the c-clips and lock it,stay under 35s and realize you can't hammer it like a 14FF.Only prob i've seen is axles breaking when welded or locked.With c-clips they won't stay in if they break. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
mudhog
THEGAME
if you have to stay 6lug go with the 14sf or if you hardly ever wheel go with a 12 bolt. but be forewarned i have shattered 2 ring and pinions with 33's first was on the street and the second time was in the sand /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif then i learned my lesson and went with a 14ff /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
zcarczar
1/2 ton status
Get a 14 SF and run that. 10 and 12 bolts are too puny for any abuse. Hell GM didnt even truck a 10 bolt behind the 454SS back in the early 90's. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
ZonkRat
1/2 ton status
I ran 72 K5 with 402--465 for couple years with 35 Gumbos and didn't have any probs.It got crashed and few years later a broke friend needed one.I was nice enuf to loan it to him till he could get one or pay me{no time limit}for it.He welded it and broke three axles in couple months with 33s.Never got a penny from him even after he sold it for 150$.After blowing two 10Bs in 88 SWB went to 12B cause I had one and needed it quick.Couldn't keep right side wheelbearing in it and lugs kept shearing off on same side.Turned out the tube was bent on right side.They're OK rears,but,I finally went full 1 ton. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Sample
1/2 ton status
Chrysler 9.25" out of a late model Dodge Ram.
sled_dog
1 ton status
Are you gonna be streeting this often? I don't care what 1/2 ton rear you have behind it if you are running a spool and driving the street a lot say good bye at a couple axles. My buddy's dad ran a spool in his Ford 9" with like 35s I think and just back into the garage at like 2 mph making a slight adjustment bam twisted an axle like it was a piece of rubber. If this is a full out trail rig then you would be a little better off but you will still have the problem that one good trail run is a lot harder than a couple weeks of street driving(unless you drive like me) on those axles.
I would probalby do a 14bolt FF with disks but I have to stay 6lug. I was trying to figure out a way to make them 6lug but the only thing I could think of is getting a 1in round peice of steel and weld it to the axle shaf(with the studs out) then drill though 2 of the old ones then like up and drill so it will fit a 6 lug wheel does this make since? Oh yea and a SF axle shaft wont fit a FF will it?
sled_dog
1 ton status
www.echobit.com they sell spacers that convert the FF to a 6 lug. You have to get the hubs on your 6 lug rims bored out but thats not a real big issue. If you really really really wanted to run 6 lug this is what my suggestion would be. it also helps with the shorter rear axles.
Bubba Ray Boudreaux
1 ton status
Well, if I didn't know and love (well not in a homosexual kind of way) I'd be calling y'all a bunch of a**hats. The proof is above, a 12 bolt built right can hang with the one ton crowd. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
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sled_dog
1 ton status
12 bolts are nice but I'd still go for the 14bolt in most cases. That thing looks like its on 35s right?
Bubba Ray Boudreaux
1 ton status
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
That thing looks like its on 35s right?
[/ QUOTE ]
Nope.
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
a Warn Full Floater 12 bolt packed with 5.13 gearing and rolling on 39.5 Ground Hawgs.
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That thing looks like its on 35s right?
[/ QUOTE ]
Nope.
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
a Warn Full Floater 12 bolt packed with 5.13 gearing and rolling on 39.5 Ground Hawgs.
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A 6-bolt version of the 14-bolt semi-float (9.5") is a decent choice. 33-spline axles vs. 28 or 30 on the 10-bolt. There's three different track widths (2wd, 4wd, & van) to suit your tastes. Just need to move the spring perches to fit your truck.
The lockrite should be large enough for this application to hold up fairly well - make sure you get one without a Gov-Lock to go this route. Dunno if a spool is available.
Rumor has it you can take a 8-lug 14SF from an 81-87 truck and install the 6-lug shafts Avoids the hassle of moving spring perches, but I'm not sure what brakes to use then. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
The lockrite should be large enough for this application to hold up fairly well - make sure you get one without a Gov-Lock to go this route. Dunno if a spool is available.
Rumor has it you can take a 8-lug 14SF from an 81-87 truck and install the 6-lug shafts Avoids the hassle of moving spring perches, but I'm not sure what brakes to use then. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Z3PR
Banned
With most things, it all boils down to cost. Assuming you'd have to buy everything (Couse I would) then clearly a 14 Bolt FF is the way to go. Figure cost of 12 bolt axle, plus FF kit, and aloy axle shafts, just trying to get the strenght of a $200.00 14 Bolt FF. Granted, you'll need a conversion U-joint and some 8 to 6 lug adaptors if you have nice rims you want to keep. Or you could carry 2 spairs, or you could convert the front to 8 lug. I just can't see the whole 1/2 ton axle hoopla when a 3/4 ton axle is so much stronger and can be had so cheap.
