I've got a 76 k5 with an 82c10 body and trying to get my guadrajet electric choke wired up. I have no wire under the hood for the choke and my oil temp sensor is only 1 wire so I tried the wiper motor and have power even with the key out of the ignition dunno what's going on there... But I do have an open connection next to the brake booster that I believe was part of the evap canister that's no longer installed it has 1 blue and 2 green wires going to it and has an unused vacuum line since this is working on key on power do I just use this? I had bought a tap a fuse I was gonna tap into the choke fuse in the panel but realized tap a fuses are only good for 10 amps and believe I gotta stick with the 20 that it was originally set up for
CK5
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Really struggling to get electric choke wired up
- Thread starter deeds86
- Start date
Confused here. Not sure what is going on with the oil sensor being mentioned. You can not use oil pressure sensor for your choke.
I need to look at an 82 wiring diagram, but there are no guarantees since this truck is modified.
Anything could be changed. I suspect the wiper motor wiring is been changed
I need to look at an 82 wiring diagram, but there are no guarantees since this truck is modified.
Anything could be changed. I suspect the wiper motor wiring is been changed
I believe you can use any switched 12V wire to power the choke.
OEM should have been a lt blue wire going back to the oil pressure switch but you don't have to run it that way.
Here's the 81-87 diagram:
OEM should have been a lt blue wire going back to the oil pressure switch but you don't have to run it that way.
Here's the 81-87 diagram:
need to check your wiper fuse it is powered by the accessory circuit from ignition switch. Fuse should not have power with key off, if it does we need to find out if it has been modified or the ign switch is bad.
well I stand corrected, it does go to the oil pressure sender on an 82, you can add a wire.
Thanks all for your help on this, so if I go from the oil pressure switch would that kick off the choke light? My ultimate goal was to get this as close to where it should be as possible with the wiring and guess I thought their would be a light blue wire coming out of the back of the fuse block wiring and that's not the case, I've gotta figure out the hot wiper issue cause when I checked initially it wasn't hot with the key out and over the course of me probing with the volt meter became hot with the key off so maybe a stuck relay or something... I have what I believe to be mostly factory wiring from the c10 it's the plow that was on there that made the wiring a mess... Do you guys possibly have any pictures of where your getting factory choke wiring from outta the firewall? Don't mean to make this difficult
I did think I was gonna make it easy by getting a tap a fuse and just going from the fuse panel but since the tap a fuse maxed out at 10 amps and it had a 20 amp fuse I stopped where I was electrical is not a strong point by any means! I picked this up to learn on but am quickly realizing I might have made a mistake although I've made a lot of progress there's still a lot I gotta learn and do
I did think I was gonna make it easy by getting a tap a fuse and just going from the fuse panel but since the tap a fuse maxed out at 10 amps and it had a 20 amp fuse I stopped where I was electrical is not a strong point by any means! I picked this up to learn on but am quickly realizing I might have made a mistake although I've made a lot of progress there's still a lot I gotta learn and do
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that is the bulkhead connector. red arrow
So I've been scratching my head all day on this, I went out and looked at a buddys k truck and he has a 2 spade oil pressure switch as I only have 1 spade, my goal is to clean up wiring not make it worse all while knowing nothing about electrical! I do agree after a bit of research my ignition switch will need to be replaced but the only thing that helps me do is deviate from factory style choke hookup... You guys have givin a lot of help and am sorry if I'm just not getting it, do I splice into the wire going to my 1 spade oil switch or go and buy a 2 spade switch like the 80s trucks had since mine has the original 76 motor? I guess I was under the assumption that from the back of the firewall at the bulkhead my electric choke wire would just come out there and id splice a new connector and be on my marry way but that's obviously not the case... My buddy says it does come through the factory loom from the bulkhead but wraps to the passenger side of the engine bay and i still see nothing! I do have 1 power wire on the firewall that's for the tcc lockup that's being unused it's getting 12 volts with key on power do I stop overthinking this and tap on there? It seems a bit small maybe 16-18 ga wire its the one with the vacuum line input and has two green wires and one light blue they've all been cut since my th350 doesn't use the lockup switch
is it 2 prong or one of these
what year is buddies truck
what year is buddies truck
Yes it will allow to leave the oil pressure switch wire unmolested and make a whole separate wire for the choke heater. You will see these in the horn wiring, VW beatles use them on the oil pressure circuit for high temp oil warning device.
Need a ign powered source to a 2 prong oil pressure switch to the choke. The Choke makes its own ground.
Your existing switch was probably for just a light on your previous 76 cab and just provides a ground with eng running.
Is it even hooked up to anything?
The spade thing is only going to pass power around the single wire switch and your choke will be powered any time the ign is on regardless if engine is not running which defeats the purpose of the switch.
A pressure sender will be a larger bulb looking vs a small press switch. 76 might have had a mechanical oil pressure gauge with an oil line coming from the back of the block behind and left of the distributor to the gauge.
There are several taps for an oil switch/sender that u can use on your 76 engine, the one behind the distributor, one down by the oil filter just above it and another under the alternator bracket area or the right side. They are 1/8 pipe thread with an Allen head plug in them if not used. Getting a plug out may be difficult.
Hard to say what you actually have being modified like was said.
Your existing switch was probably for just a light on your previous 76 cab and just provides a ground with eng running.
Is it even hooked up to anything?
The spade thing is only going to pass power around the single wire switch and your choke will be powered any time the ign is on regardless if engine is not running which defeats the purpose of the switch.
A pressure sender will be a larger bulb looking vs a small press switch. 76 might have had a mechanical oil pressure gauge with an oil line coming from the back of the block behind and left of the distributor to the gauge.
There are several taps for an oil switch/sender that u can use on your 76 engine, the one behind the distributor, one down by the oil filter just above it and another under the alternator bracket area or the right side. They are 1/8 pipe thread with an Allen head plug in them if not used. Getting a plug out may be difficult.
Hard to say what you actually have being modified like was said.
This is factory set up using a choke and a light .
You want it wired through the oil pressure switch so that you don't warm the choke until the engine is running. If it was just switched ignition, leaving the key on without the engine running would open the choke before the engine starts (and waste battery power). So the choke light is basically a low oil pressure light.
That's some good logic there. I hadn't considered the implications of sitting in the car with the ignition on but motor off. Not something I do often but would certainly be a PITA the few times I did.
I appreciate your guys help on this, the truck is in my works shop (trash company) I think I overdid myself and haven't touched it since this post, I'll be back into it tomorrow and over the weekend. I didn't think I had a pressure switch at all on the truck just a sender but with me trying to learn this truck I didn't question anything! I gotta square away the grounds on this truck as I have no headlights or taillights currently and then figured out my wiper motor is staying hot... So as far as the switch goes I don't know if I'll go that route if it's not already installed in the truck since I have no reason to have the ignition on but not started I guess I'll have to figure that out tomorrow! Thanks all for the knowledge!
